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Saltoro Kangri

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Mountain in disputed Kashmir region administered by India
Saltoro Kangri
Saltoro Kangri, at right
Highest point
Elevation7,742 m (25,400 ft)Ranked 31st
Prominence2,160 m (7,090 ft)
ListingUltra
Coordinates35°23′57.6″N 76°50′55.2″E / 35.399333°N 76.848667°E / 35.399333; 76.848667
Dimensions
Length80 km (50 mi)
Geography
Saltoro Kangri is located in KarakoramSaltoro KangriSaltoro KangriSaltoro Ridge, Siachen, Actual Ground Position Line, Saltoro Kangri on the border between Indian and Pakistani controlled territoriesShow map of KarakoramSaltoro Kangri is located in Gilgit BaltistanSaltoro KangriSaltoro KangriSaltoro Kangri (Gilgit Baltistan)Show map of Gilgit BaltistanSaltoro Kangri is located in LadakhSaltoro KangriSaltoro KangriSaltoro Kangri (Ladakh)Show map of Ladakh
About OpenStreetMapsMaps: terms of use 45km
30miles Pakistan India ChinaGasherbrum V 48Gasherbrum VRimo III 47Rimo IIIApsarasas Kangri I 46Apsarasas Kangri IDiran 45DiranMuztagh Tower 44Muztagh TowerK6 43K6Yutmaru Sar 42Yutmaru SarBaintha Brakk 41Baintha BrakkCrown Peak 40Crown PeakBaltoro Kangri 39Baltoro KangriYazghil Dome South 38Yazghil Dome SouthSherpi Kangri 37Sherpi KangriRimo I, Rimo massif 36Rimo I, Rimo massifUltar, Ultar Peak, Ultar Sar 35Ultar, Ultar Peak, Ultar SarGhent Kangri 34Ghent KangriHaramosh Peak 33Haramosh PeakSkil Brum 32Skil BrumMomhil Sar 31Momhil SarSia Kangri 30Sia KangriK12 29K12Malubiting 28MalubitingTeram Kangri I 27Teram Kangri IYukshin Gardan Sar 26Yukshin Gardan SarPassu Sar 25Passu SarPumari Chhish 24Pumari ChhishSaser Kangri III 23Saser Kangri IIISaser Kangri II 22Saser Kangri IIMamostong Kangri K35 21Mamostong Kangri K35Skyang Kangri 20Skyang KangriTrivor Sar 19Trivor SarShispare or Shispare Sar 18Shispare or Shispare SarChogolisa 17ChogolisaSaser Kangri I, K22 16Saser Kangri I, K22Batura III 15Batura IIISaltoro Kangri, K10 14Saltoro Kangri, K10Kanjut Sar 13Kanjut SarBatura II 12Batura IIRakaposhi 11RakaposhiBatura Sar, Batura I 10Batura Sar, Batura IMasherbrum, K1 9Masherbrum, K1Kunyang Chhish (Kunyang Kish, Khunyang Chhish, Khinyang Chhish) 8Kunyang Chhish (Kunyang Kish, Khunyang Chhish, Khinyang Chhish)Distaghil Sar 7Distaghil SarGasherbrum IV, K3 6Gasherbrum IV, K3Gasherbrum III, K3a 5Gasherbrum III, K3aGasherbrum II, K4 4Gasherbrum II, K4Broad Peak 3Broad Peak Gasherbrum I, K5 2Gasherbrum I, K5 K2 1K2  The major peaks in Karakoram are rank identified by height.

Legend：
1：K2,  2：Gasherbrum I, K5,  3：Broad Peak,  4：Gasherbrum II, K4,  5：Gasherbrum III, K3a,  6：Gasherbrum IV, K3,  7：Distaghil Sar,  8：Kunyang Chhish,  9：Masherbrum, K1,  10：Batura Sar, Batura I,  11：Rakaposhi,  12：Batura II,  13：Kanjut Sar,  14：Saltoro Kangri, K10,  15：Batura III,  16： Saser Kangri I, K22,  17：Chogolisa,  18：Shispare,  19：Trivor Sar,  20：Skyang Kangri,  21：Mamostong Kangri, K35,  22：Saser Kangri II,  23：Saser Kangri III,  24：Pumari Chhish,  25：Passu Sar,  26：Yukshin Gardan Sar,  27：Teram Kangri I,  28：Malubiting,  29：K12,  30：Sia Kangri,  31：Momhil Sar,  32：Skil Brum,  33：Haramosh Peak,  34：Ghent Kangri,  35：Ultar Sar,  36：Rimo massif,  37：Sherpi Kangri,  38：Yazghil Dome South,  39：Baltoro Kangri,  40：Crown Peak,  41：Baintha Brakk,  42：Yutmaru Sar,  43：K6,  44：Muztagh Tower,  45：Diran,  46：Apsarasas Kangri I,  47：Rimo III,  48：Gasherbrum V

 
Parent rangeSaltoro Mountains, Karakoram
Climbing
First ascent24 July 1962 by Y. Takamura, A. Saito, Capt. Bashir
Easiest routerock/snow/ice climb
Saltoro Kangri
Traditional Chinese薩爾托洛崗日峰
Transcriptions

Saltoro Kangri, previously known as Peak 36, stands as the highest peak within the Saltoro Mountains subrange, which is part of the larger Karakoram range. This subrange is also referred to as the Saltoro Range and is situated within the Karakoram region. The term "Saltoro Kangri" typically encompasses both of its twin peaks, Saltoro Kangri I (located to the south) and Saltoro Kangri II, which are connected by a saddle. When comparing heights, the generic term "Saltoro Kangri" is used for the taller of the two peaks, Saltoro Kangri I. This peak ranks as the 31st highest mountain globally and is located in the remote reaches of the Karakoram. It lies on the Actual Ground Position Line, dividing Indian-controlled territory in the Siachen region from Pakistani-controlled territory to the west of the Saltoro Range.

Climbing history

The mountain underwent reconnaissance by Fanny Bullock Workman and her husband in the year 1911-12. The initial endeavor to conquer the peak, which was then denoted as "Peak 36," took place in 1935, led by a British expedition headed by James Waller and John Hunt. Hunt's involvement in the expedition had been suggested by the Himalayan Club in Calcutta. Among the expedition's members were Rowland Brotherhood and Dr. Steward Carslaw, accompanied by two Sherpas named Palden and Dawa Thondup. Their approach to the mountain commenced from the Likah Glacier, with the objective of ascending the South East ridge. They successfully established a final camp on June 19th, yet their altitude estimation proved to be inaccurate. An attempt to reach the summit the following day, amidst worsening weather conditions, was thwarted as they were required to ascend an additional 3500 feet. Hunt and Brotherhood managed to reach an elevation of 24,500 feet but were compelled to turn around.

In 1957, under the leadership of Eric Shipton, a British university expedition approached the mountain via the Bilafond La route, entering from Pakistan and operating under a Pakistani climbing permit. However, they chose not to make a summit attempt. Unintentionally, this expedition marked the initial maneuver in the consequential oropolitics dispute over the Siachen conflict, ultimately culminating in the Siachen conflict of 1984.

The first ascent of Saltoro Kangri was in July 1962, by a joint Japanese-Pakistani expedition led by T. Shidei. This piggyback expedition put A. Saito, Y. Takamura and Pakistani climber R.A. Bashir on the top on July 24, following the S.E. ridge route. The peak was again climbed by an Indian Army expedition led by Colonel Narendra Kumar in 1981. US maps of the area and many world atlases starting in the 1960s showed the Line of Control between Pakistani and Indian territory running from the last defined point in the 1949 Karachi Agreement, NJ9842, east-northeast to the Karakoram Pass, thus putting the whole of Saltoro Kangri and the entire Siachen Glacier in Pakistan. However, the Simla Agreement defined the Line of Control no further than point NJ9842 other than with the phrase "thence north to the glaciers." The Himalayan Index lists only one more ascent of the mountain, in 1981, and no other attempts.

References

  1. ^ Shidei, T. (1964). "The Ascent of Saltoro Kangri" (PDF). Alpine Journal. 69: 73–80. Retrieved 2020-01-15.
  2. Hunt, John (1936). "Peak 36, Saltoro Karakoram, 1935". Himalayan Journal. 8. Retrieved 2020-01-15.
  3. Hunt, John; Waller, James (1937). "Peak 36, Saltoro Karakoram A Mountaineering Analysis". Himalayan Journal. 9. Retrieved 2020-01-15.
  4. Waller, James (1939). The Everlasting Hills. William Blackwood & Sons.
  5. Hunt, John (1978). Life Is Meeting. London: Hodder and Stoughton. pp. 35–44. ISBN 0340229632.
  6. Miller, K.J. (1958). "The Imperial College Karakoram Expedition, 1957". Himalayan Journal. 21. Retrieved 2020-01-15.
  7. Shidei, T. (1964). "The Ascent of Saltoro Kangri". Himalayan Journal. 25. Retrieved 2020-01-15.
  8. Kapadia, Harish (2005). Into the Untravelled Himalaya: Travels, Treks, and Climbs. Indus Publishing. p. 245. ISBN 9788173871818. Retrieved 2020-01-15.

Further reading

  • Jill Neate, High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks, ISBN 0-89886-238-8

External links

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