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Revision as of 00:54, 11 July 2010

It has been suggested that this article be merged into One-sided overhand bend. (Discuss) Proposed since October 2009.

Euro death-knot (aka EDK or European Death Knot ) refers to one of a few offset knots used to connect two rope on rappels longer than 25 to 35 meters in length. It is one of the most common methods of joining two ropes for an abseil/rappel. In other continents and countries, this knot may have a variety of names; for example, in Australia it is referred to as the 'Dead knot'.

Using a European Death Knot

EDKs have the advantage of pulling more cleanly after an abseil/ rappel and thus may avoid binding or becoming difficult to retrieve. It is also easier to untie than some of the alternatives when it has been subjected to load. It is very important to note that these knots can also invert (capsizing), if not properly dressed & set (tied); this can cause catastrophic knot failure if there is insufficient tail. Thus the tongue-in-cheek, yet highly memorable, American nickname for this group of flat bends.

If using one of these knots, it is recommended to leave the tail longer than 300 mm (12 inches); or, one can back up the offset knot with a "stopper" knot tied in one or both tails, snug to the first -- a stopper will prevent the knot from capsizing, avoiding failure. Be sure to pull each end of the rope tightly, making the knot as neat and twist-free as possible.

The capsizing potential is also decreased by pulling the knot very tightly prior to use. It is possible to tie a second overhand on the tails butted up against the primary knot - this prevents inversion without introducing any noticeable disadvantages.

Important: If ropes of different diameters are to be joined, the thinner rope should take the position that first "chokes" the two loaded lines where they enter the knot; the thinner rope will have its larger rope's twin parts to impede its opening to invert. It is then this thinner rope's tail that should be tied off with an Overhand knot around the other tail, snug against the knot, to prevent the choke from opening.

The figure-eight variant of the EDK is much less stable and prone to catastrophic failure. Such a knot should never be used for joining ropes in a rappel.

Alternatives

• Figure Eight Bend backed up by stopper knots
• Double Fisherman's Knot

See also

• List of bend knots
• List of knots

References

1. Article on some EDKs
2. http://web.archive.org/web/20070927040547/http://www.snowdonia-adventures.co.uk/EDK-Table.htm
3. http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/EDK.html

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