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A '''house rabbit''' is a ] kept as a pet for companionship, who lives inside the home with his owners. House rabbits usually have an indoor pen and a rabbit-safe place to run and exercise, such as a living or family room. They are easily trained to use a ] and can learn to come when called. Their diets typically consist of unlimited ], a small helping of pellets and some fresh vegetables and fruits. House rabbits are very quiet ]s with a life expectancy of 8 to 12 years.<ref>{{citation | title = Basic Rabbit Facts | accessdate=2009-12-02 | publisher = House Rabbit Society | url = http://www.rabbit.org/care/facts.html}}</ref> They are not well suited for families with unsupervised children under seven years, due to the likelihood of frightening or harming these timid creatures by loud sounds or mishandling. |
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==Acquiring a rabbit== |
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House rabbit organizations emphasize the importance of considering the time commitment, space requirements, lifestyle changes, and cost before acquiring a house rabbit, as well as how he will interact with kids and pets. Typically, people who decide they don't want their rabbits take them to animal shelters or turn them loose in the woods. The result is more rabbits put to death by shelter workers, or since domestic rabbits are rarely adapted to fend for themselves, dying quickly in the wild.{{sfn|Pavia|2003|pp=10–12}} |
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There are many ]s, ], ]s, and individuals that have rabbits available for ], typically for a small fee. Additionally, reputable ]s and some ]s sell rabbits. Pet stores are often considered the least preferable place to acquire a new rabbit as the rabbit's history is unknown and many come from pet farms with poor conditions.<ref>{{citation | title = What's wrong with pet stores? | accessdate=2008-06-18 | publisher = The Quintessential Rabbit | url = http://www.qrabbit.com/petstores.html}}</ref> Some stores, however, do document the history of their stock, which can be used to verify their environmental conditions. |
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Adopted rabbits may not be ] prior to adoption, since they must first reach reproductive maturity: about 4 months of age or later. In this case, owners are encouraged to neuter their rabbits due to the health, behavior, and population control benefits.{{sfn|Pavia|2003|p=123}} |
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A house rabbit is suitable for a household with the time and energy to care for and interact with him.{{sfn|Pavia|2003|p=9}} While children often have the time and interest, house rabbit organizations caution that a rabbit does not make a good pet for small children because they may not know how to stay quiet, calm and gentle around the rabbit. As prey animals, rabbits are alert, timid creatures that startle easily. They have fragile ]s, especially in their backs, that require support on the belly and bottom when picked up. |
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Children over eight years old usually have the ability to care for a rabbit if provided with proper instruction. They need to understand the fragility of a rabbit compared to other pets and the danger of injury or death associated with mishandling or rough play. A local house rabbit organization is often a good source for hands-on education for children and adults.<ref>{{citation | title = Children and Rabbits | accessdate=2009-10-13 | publisher = House Rabbit Society | author = Mixon, Carolyn | url = http://www.rabbit.org/faq/sections/children.html}}</ref> |
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==Socialization== |
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Rabbits are very social animals. House rabbits become part of the family, just as ]s, ]s, and ]s do and often get along well with these other animals. It is not uncommon to see a house rabbit grooming the cat, dog, or another rabbit. Socialization takes time, especially between two rabbits, where the process is called ]. Until two rabbits are bonded, they tend to be ] and can be a danger to each other. |
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A rabbit needs at least two hours per day{{sfn|Pavia|2003|p=11}} of out-of-cage time in a safe environment (see ] below). The strong muscles in his back legs will weaken if he is not given opportunities to run, jump, and play. When a rabbit plays, he will often do a ''binky'', which is a happy dance where he will jump into the air, turn around, and take off running. This is the equivalent of a dog's tail wagging or a cat pouncing in a play-like manner. When calm and being petted on the head or cheeks, he may gently grind his teeth with contentment, which is the equivalent of a cat purring and is a sign that the rabbit feels comfortable and happy with his environment. Rabbits enjoy gentle, quiet attention from their human counterparts. However, most rabbits do not like to be cuddled, which takes them too far from their natural comfort zone as ] animals. Rabbits can be taught to follow ]s such as coming when called by name.{{sfn|Pavia|2003|p=166}} Other tricks include begging and ]. |
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===Socialization with other animals=== |
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It is recommended that ]s and ]s generally not be left alone with rabbits as their ] ]s (or overenthusiastic play) can lead to the dog or cat attacking the rabbit spontaneously. Many owners have found, however, that after careful introduction, their dog or cat does get along well with their rabbit. When introducing a rabbit to other pets, owners must be prepared to quickly separate the animals at the first sign of aggression.<ref>{{citation | title = Cats and Rabbits | accessdate=2008-01-04 | publisher = House Rabbit Society | author = Shapiro, Amy | url = http://www.rabbit.org/journal/2-11/cats-and-rabbits.html}}</ref><ref>{{citation | title = When Fido Met Thumper (Dogs and Rabbits) | accessdate=2008-01-04 | publisher = House Rabbit Society | author = Shapiro, Amy | url = http://www.rabbit.org/journal/1/dogs.html}}</ref> |
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Rabbits have been successfully housed with ];<ref>{{citation | title = Guinea Pigs as Rabbit Buddies | accessdate=2009-06-10 | publisher = House Rabbit Network | author = Rubins, Suzanne | url = http://www.rabbitnetwork.org/articles/gpfriends.shtml}}</ref> however, there are risks in doing so that may make the practice inadvisable. Guinea pigs are susceptible to respiratory disease from bacteria that rabbits carry. Additionally, rabbits may bully small rodents sharing their territory.<ref>{{citation | title = Top Ten Questions asked about Rabbits | accessdate=2010-02-24 | publisher = The Irish Blue Cross | url = http://www.bluecross.ie/top10others.html}}</ref> |
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==Housing== |
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Rabbits need an enclosure that is at least 4 times the length of the rabbit. Typical enclosures are x-pens, multiple-level condos, large dog cages, a room, and even a whole house. |
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A puppy training folding fence 26 or more inches high serves as a simple ], called an exercise pen or x-pen. It provides more free space and is easier to clean than some traditional ]s. Multiple x-pens can be joined to enlarge the enclosed area. An x-pen’s portability is useful for travel with rabbits and for introduction and bonding. |
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A multiple-level condo is used to minimize floor space while keeping the rabbit quarters large. The rabbit condo can be made by using cable ties and storage cubes available at home supply stores (). ] and ] remnants are commonly used as flooring. A multiple-level condo provides the rabbit plenty of jumping options and variety. The owner chooses the dimensions and layout. |
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Yet another option is a large dog cage. House rabbit organizations caution against using a grid floor, as this will cause sore ] (sores or hair loss on the bottom of the rabbit’s back feet). Since they do not have pads on their feet, rabbits rely on the natural, thick hair growth on the bottom of their feet for protection against the elements and to cushion them from the surface they are walking on.<ref>{{citation | title = Declawing Rabbits | accessdate=2009-06-17 | publisher = Wisconsin House Rabbit Society | author = Paul-Murphy, Joanne, DVM | url = http://www.wisconsinhrs.org/Articles/Declawing%20Rabbits.htm}}</ref> When this hair is worn off by constantly being on a grid floor or by being kept in an unsuitably small enclosure, even soft flooring like carpet becomes painful to walk or lay on. Carpet or linoleum can be added to a cage that has a grid floor to protect the rabbit’s feet or sometimes the grid can be removed. |
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A rabbit-proofed room outfitted with a litter box, toys, and food can also serve as an enclosure. Rooms shared with humans, such as a bedroom or a kitchen, are typical. Where it is practical to rabbit-proof an entire house, a house rabbit can freely roam the house as cats and dogs do. Depending on the rabbit, this could require additional litter boxes, possibly one per room or per floor. |
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Within his enclosure, a house rabbit may be provided a small shelter to hide and rest in, such as a cardboard box. Sometimes the shelter doubles as a ]. Alternatively, a towel or cloth may be hung from the top of the cage to section off a small, dark area. Shy or skittish rabbits use these to achieve a sense of the safety of a ]. |
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==Litter training== |
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A house rabbit is easily trained to use a ], especially if ]. When placed in a new area, it is common for a rabbit to mark the area with his ]. After he gets acquainted to the area, he will naturally favor a certain location. A litter box filled with about one inch of non-toxic litter is placed there. Cat litter boxes are commonly used; additionally, pet stores sell small animal litter boxes marketed toward small rabbits and ]. |
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Most pet stores carry safe litter that is easy to handle, clean and absorbent. Hardwood ]s designed for wood burning stoves offer a low cost, safe and clean alternative to store bought cat litter, with a {{convert|40|lb|adj=on}} bag generally costing $5–$6 ]. ], hay, straw and folded towels can also be used. Experts recommend not using litter made from ] or ]{{sfn|Pavia|2003|p=66}} because inhaling the ]s in them may cause ] to the rabbit. Clay based cat litter, scented cat litter and clumping cat litter should not be used with rabbits. |
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Placing hay close to the litter box can speed up the training, since rabbits like to ] and eat at the same time. Due to this tendency, a rabbit may remain in the litter box for extended periods, increasing the importance of keeping the box clean. It can also be helpful during training to limit the space available to the rabbit. Starting at ], rabbits that are not spayed or neutered may begin displaying ], which can frustrate efforts to litter train.<ref>{{citation | title = Litter Training | accessdate=2008-01-10 | publisher = House Rabbit Society | url = http://www.rabbit.org/faq/sections/litter.html}}</ref> |
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==Feeding== |
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House rabbits are provided an unlimited amount of grass hay, with a high concentration of ]—] being recommended by many rabbit experts, which reduces the chance of digestive tract blockages and tooth ] while providing indigestible fiber necessary to keep the gut moving. While timothy hay is the most preferred hay,<ref name=tll/> ], ], and prairie hay have also been recommended.<ref name=hills>{{citation|title=Holland Lop Care|url=http://www.hillsborohollands.com/Holland_Lop_Care.html|publisher=Hillsboro Hollands|accessdate=2009-03-05}}</ref> Conversely, ] hay should be avoided for all but very young rabbits as it contains excessive amounts of calcium and protein,<ref name=hills/> in addition to a low fiber content.<ref name=tll/> |
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House rabbits are also typically given about two cups of chopped dark, green, leafy ]s per 6 pounds of body weight and up to two tablespoons of ] or ]s per six pounds body weight daily. House rabbit owners commonly provide treats, although in very limited quantities, which can include a few pellets, a slice of strawberry, or other healthy foods. Advertised treats in the pet stores are occasionally used, although even more sparingly, since they typically have very high sugar and starch content. |
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Some of the vegetables that rabbits enjoy are ], ], ]s, ], ], ], ], ], ], and ]. The green, leafy tops of ] and ] also are excellent sources of nutrients—more than the vegetable itself. New vegetables are introduced slowly since rabbits have delicate digestive systems. ], ] and ] are best avoided because they cause gas and can lead to gastrointestinal stasis, which can be fatal. Starchy vegetables such as ]es and ] are also avoided. Iceberg lettuce is to be especially avoided because it contains no nutritional value and has a high moisture content. |
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Pellets made from timothy grass supplement a house rabbit's diet. This differs from commercial rabbits, where pellets account for a much larger portion. Pellet amounts are determined by the weight of the rabbit and are listed on the back of the manufacturer’s packaging. A general rule of thumb for pellet feeding is to give an ounce per pound of rabbit per day. Young rabbits, however, should be given an unlimited feed of pellets. Good quality pellets are indicated by a 16 to 18 percent protein and at least 16 percent fibre content.<ref name=tll>{{citation|title=Feeding Your Rabbit|url=http://www.threelittleladissrabbitry.com/feeding.php|publisher=Three Little Ladies Rabbitry|accessdate=2009-06-05}}</ref> Unlike pellets for ]s, rabbit pellets do not contain nuts, which contain more fat than rabbits can easily metabolize and can cause health problems such as fatty liver. If fresh ] or ] is not available, a high quality pellet is sometimes used as a fallback instead of hay as the staple food. |
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House rabbits are provided an unlimited amount of fresh water, usually in a water ], tip-proof ceramic pet dish or hanging water bottle. Rabbits on a consistent dietary regimen of fresh vegetables will drink less water, sourcing it instead through their greens. |
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Young rabbits have special dietary needs. They benefit from ] hays and pellets such as ], which are higher in protein, calories, and calcium than grasses. They are introduced to vegetables at 12 weeks old and fruit at 7 months. Also at 7 months, they begin transitioning from legumes to grass.<ref>{{citation | title = Rabbit Care Information Packet for Adopters | accessdate=2009-02-09 | publisher = House Rabbit Society | url = http://www.rabbit.org/adoption/s-forms/shelter%20outreach%20care%20packet.DOC}}</ref> |
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==House proofing== |
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Living in a house shelters a rabbit from dangers such as ]s and ]s, but it has its own hazards. When a rabbit is hopping about outside his cage, he can harm himself or the house if the area is not properly prepared. For example, to prevent ], an owner will hide electrical cords or cover them with flexible clear tubing (slit lengthwise), such as that purchased in the ] section of a home store. Also of concern is rabbits' tendency to chew books, papers, and some types of ] and ] edges. This problem is mitigated by providing something in the room that will attract the rabbit to chew instead, such as an old phone book, large pieces of scrap paper, or a toilet paper roll.<ref>{{citation | title = FAQ: Chewing | accessdate=2010-02-25 | publisher = House Rabbit Society | url = http://www.rabbit.org/faq/sections/chewing.html}}</ref> |
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==Toys== |
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House rabbits need to play to keep their minds active and bodies trim. Rotating through a collection of toys provides variety and keeps their interest. Toys must be ] and include cardboard boxes with holes cut in them, toilet paper rolls stuffed with hay, ] to tunnel through, balls with holes for food to tumble out, plastic rattles for the rabbit to toss, straw mats or untreated wicker baskets to chew. Some rabbits enjoy cloths that are dangled into their cage (though supervision with these materials is mandatory should the rabbit ingest any of it). All house rabbits need wood toys that they can chew on to wear down their teeth, which will continue to grow to ] if they have nothing to chew. Toys can be purchased at a ], improvised from paper refuse or they can be handmade. |
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==Health== |
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Emergency health concerns such as a rabbit not eating, not eliminating, or head tilt require immediate veterinary attention. A ] can also assist with chronic conditions such as ].<ref>{{citation | title = When Teeth Turn to Tusks | accessdate=2007-06-12 | publisher = House Rabbit Society | url = http://www.rabbit.org/journal/2-6/tusks.html}}</ref> In most regions, house rabbits do not require ]; however, vaccines are ] against ], ], and ].<ref>{{citation | title = VHD: what every UK rabbit owner needs to know | date = March 2007 | accessdate=2007-06-12 | publisher = Rabbit Welfare Association | url = http://www.houserabbit.co.uk/rwf/articles/vhd.htm}}</ref>{{sfn|Pavia|2003|p=182}} Some owners visit a vet for advice on topics such as diet, although others rely on their own experience or the experience of others, such as knowledgeable people in a house rabbit organization. In any case, house rabbit organizations recommend finding a vet before an emergency occurs as only some vets are experienced in treating rabbits. The ] maintains a . |
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House rabbit organizations recommend that house rabbits be ]. Health advantages include reduced risk of ] and ] and ] in females.{{sfn|Pavia|2003|pp=195–199}} Fixing house rabbits also reduces ] in males, aggression toward other rabbits, and overpopulation.<ref>{{citation | title = Spaying and Neutering | accessdate=2007-10-29 | publisher = House Rabbit Society | url = http://www.rabbit.org/faq/sections/spay-neuter.html}}</ref> Adult rabbits, unlike cats and dogs, do not go into ] but are constantly ready for reproduction—thus the adage, "breed like rabbits". |
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Unlike a ], a rabbit cannot be ]. Lacking pads on the bottoms of his feet, a rabbit requires his claws for balance. Removing his claws will render him unable to stand, permanently crippling him. Rabbits with access to rough surfaces will naturally keep their claws worn down to a certain extent when running but pet rabbits will normally require their claws to be clipped regularly. This is especially true of house rabbits that only run on soft surfaces such as carpets. It is very important that claws are clipped by someone with experience, such as a trained veterinary practitioner, as clipping the claws at the quick or ] can cause pain and bleeding. As a precaution, ] or gel can be kept at the ready to speed clotting, should bleeding occur.<ref name="clipping">{{citation |
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|url = http://www.myhouserabbit.com/tip_clipping.php |
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|title = Clipping Your Rabbit's Nails |
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|publisher = My House Rabbit |
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|author = Cushman, Abi |
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|accessdate=2007-06-18}}</ref> |
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Rabbits shed on average of once every three months. During this shedding time, it is beneficial to brush the rabbit with a gentle rubber curry or pin brush. Cat combs or specifically designed rabbit combs are also available. Due to the rabbit's biological incapability to vomit, removing excess fur prevents intestinal blocking and fatal choking on fur balls as rabbits tend to groom themselves.<ref name=tll2>{{citation|title=Grooming Your Rabbit|url=http://www.threelittleladissrabbitry.com/grooming.php|publisher=Three Little Ladies Rabbitry|accessdate=2009-06-05}}</ref> |
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==See also== |
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{{Portal|Rabbits and hares}} |
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{{Misplaced Pages-Books|Pet rabbits}} |
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==References== |
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{{reflist}} |
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{{refbegin}} |
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*{{citation |last=Pavia |first=Audrey |title=Rabbits for Dummies |publisher=Wiley |location=New York |year=2003 |isbn=0-7645-0861-X}} |
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*{{citation |last=Harriman |first=Marinell |title=House Rabbit Handbook: How to Live with an Urban Rabbit |publisher=Drollery Press |year=2005 |isbn=978-0940920170}} |
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{{refend}} |
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==External links== |
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*: Summary of key house rabbit facts and recommendations. |
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*: Safe plants, fruit, berries, branches, vegetables, and herbs for rabbits to eat. |
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*: Tips for litter training, housing, diet, house proofing, etc. |
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*: A guide to rabbit body language and behavior. |
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{{DEFAULTSORT:House Rabbit}} |
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