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{{Short description|Region of France}}
{{other uses}}
{{Other uses}}
{{Redirect|Elsaß|the battleship|SMS Elsaß}}
{{Redirect|Elsaß|the battleship|SMS Elsaß|the region of the German Empire|Alsace–Lorraine}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=July 2013}}
{{More citations needed|date=August 2022}}
{{Infobox French region
{{Use dmy dates|date=August 2020}}
|Name = Alsace
{{Infobox settlement
|reg_logo = Blason région fr Alsace.svg
| name = Alsace
|map = Rimex-France location Alsace.svg
| native_name = {{native name|gsw|Elsàss}}
|flag = Flag of Alsace.svg
| anthem = {{native phrase|de|"]"|italics=off}}<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJr8yennvBY | title=Elsässisches Fahnenlied &#91;Anthem of Alsace&#93;&#91;+English translation&#93; | website=] | date=14 April 2020 }}</ref><br />({{Langx|en|"Song of the Alsatian Flag"}}) <br /> ]
|capital = Strasbourg
| image_skyline = {{Photomontage
|largest_city = Strasbourg
| photo1a = Pano.cernay.JPG
|area = 8280
| photo3a = Absolute cathedrale vue quais 01.JPG
|area_source =
| photo2a = Colmar (32350846618).jpg
|population = 1815488
| photo3c = Riquewihr Dolder.jpg
|pop_ref =<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.recensement.insee.fr/chiffresCles.action?zoneSearchField=ALSACE&codeZone=42-REG&idTheme=3 |title=Insee – Résultats du recensement de la population – 2006 – Alsace |language={{fr icon}} |publisher=Recensement.insee.fr |date= |accessdate=16 April 2010}}</ref>
| photo3b = Château de Hohenbourg.jpg
|pop_date = 2006
| photo4a = Neuf-Brisach, Haut-Rhin, France.jpg
|GDP = 48
|GDP_year = 2007 | spacing = 3
| border = 0
|GDP_ref =<ref name="eurostat">{{cite web|title= GDP per inhabitant in 2006 ranged from 25% of the EU27 average in Nord-Est in Romania to 336% in Inner London| publisher= Eurostat| url= http://epp.eurostat.ec.europa.eu/cache/ITY_PUBLIC/1-19022009-AP/EN/1-19022009-AP-EN.PDF}}</ref>
| color = white
|GDP_per_capita = 26,500
| size = 300
|GDP_cap_year = 2007
|GDP_cap_ref =<ref name="eurostat" />|Website =
|leader_title =
|leader = ] (2010–)
|leader_party = UMP
|ruling_party1 =
|ruling_party2 =
|departments = 2
|dept1 = ]
|dept2 = ]
|NUTS = FR4
|iso region =
}} }}
| image_caption = Views of ], ], ], ], ], ]
'''Alsace''' ({{lang-fr|link=no|Alsace}} {{IPA-fr|al.zas||Fr-Paris--Alsace.ogg}}; ]: ''’s Elsass'' {{IPA-gsw|ˈɛlsɑs|}}; German: ''Elsass'', ]: ''Elsaß'' {{IPA-de|ˈɛlzas||Elsass.ogg}}; {{lang-la|Alsatia}}) is the fifth-smallest of the 27 ] in land area (8,280&nbsp;km²), and the smallest in ]. It is also the seventh-most densely populated region in France and third most densely populated region in metropolitan France, with ca. 220 inhabitants per km² (total population in 2006: 1,815,488; 1 January 2008 estimate: 1,836,000).
| image_map = Carte Alsace 2018.png
| image_flag = Flag of Alsace.svg
| image_shield = BlasonAlsace.svg
| subdivision_type = Country
| subdivision_name = ]
| subdivision_type1 = ]
| subdivision_name1 = ]
| seat_type = ]
| seat = ]
| area_total_km2 = 8280
| area_footnotes = <ref>{{cite web|title=La géographie de l'Alsace|url=http://www.region.alsace/region-alsace/la-geographie-de-lalsace|website=region.alsace|access-date=13 January 2016|archive-date=12 December 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151212121550/http://www.region.alsace/region-alsace/la-geographie-de-lalsace|url-status=dead}}</ref>
| population_total = 1919745
| population_density_km2 = auto
| population_footnotes = <ref name="pop">Combined 2021 population of the departements of ] and ]: {{cite web |title=Populations légales des départements en 2021 |url=https://www.insee.fr/fr/statistiques/7728787?sommaire=7728826 |publisher=] |access-date=16 January 2024}}</ref>
| population_as_of = Jan. 2021
| population_demonym = Alsatian
| demographics_type1 = GDP
| demographics1_footnotes = <ref>{{cite web | url=https://ec.europa.eu/eurostat/databrowser/view/tgs00003/default/table?lang=en | title=EU regions by GDP, Eurostat|access-date=18 September 2023}}</ref>
|demographics1_title1 = Total
|demographics1_info1 = €67.748 billion (2022)
| demographics1_title2 = Per capita
|demographics1_info2 = €35,800 (2022)
| parts_type = ]
| parts_style = list
| parts = 2
| p1 = ] (67)
| p2 = ] (68)
| iso_code = FR-A
}}
{{Alsace sidebar}}
'''Alsace''' ({{IPAc-en|æ|l|ˈ|s|æ|s}},<ref>{{Cite encyclopedia |url=http://www.lexico.com/definition/Alsace |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200317063739/https://www.lexico.com/definition/alsace |url-status=dead |archive-date=2020-03-17 |title=Alsace |dictionary=] UK English Dictionary |publisher=]}}</ref> {{IPAc-en|USalso|æ|l|ˈ|s|eɪ|s|,_|ˈ|æ|l|s|æ|s}};<ref>{{cite American Heritage Dictionary|Alsace|access-date=11 May 2019}}</ref><ref>{{cite Collins Dictionary|Alsace|access-date=11 May 2019}}</ref> {{IPA|fr|alzas|lang|Fr-Paris--Alsace.ogg}}; ]/]: {{lang|gsw|Elsàss}} ]]; ]: {{lang|de|Elsass}} (]: {{lang|de|Elsaß}}) ]] <sup>]</sup>; ]: {{lang|la|Alsatia}}) is a cultural region and a ] in eastern ], on the west bank of the upper ] next to Germany and Switzerland. In January 2021, it had a population of 1,919,745.<ref name=pop /> Alsatian culture is characterized by a blend of German and French influences.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.britishcouncil.org/voices-magazine/alsace-culturally-not-quite-french-not-quite-german |title=Alsace: culturally not quite French, not quite German |last=Leichtfried |first=Laura |work=British Council |date=23 February 2017 |access-date=25 August 2021 |url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170223231848/https://www.britishcouncil.org/voices-magazine/alsace-culturally-not-quite-french-not-quite-german |archive-date=23 February 2017 }}</ref>


Until 1871, Alsace included the area now known as the ], which formed its southernmost part. From 1982 to 2016, Alsace was the smallest administrative {{lang|fr|]}} in ], consisting of the ] and ] ]. Territorial reform passed by the French Parliament in 2014 resulted in the merger of the Alsace administrative region with ] and ] to form ]. On 1 January 2021, the departments of Bas-Rhin and Haut-Rhin merged into the new ] but remained part of the region Grand Est.
Alsace is located on France's eastern border and on the west bank of the upper ] adjacent to Germany and Switzerland. Historical decisions, wars, and strategic politics have resulted in Alsace being administered separately as its own "region" within the Republic of France. The political, economic and cultural capital as well as largest city of Alsace is ]. Because that city is the seat of ], Alsace is politically one of the two important regions in the ].


] is an ] dialect closely related to ], although since World War II most ] primarily speak French. Internal and international migration since 1945 has also changed the ethnolinguistic composition of Alsace. For more than 300 years, from the ] to ], the political status of Alsace was heavily contested between France and various German states in wars and diplomatic conferences. The economic and cultural capital of Alsace, as well as its largest city, is ], which sits on the present German international border. The city is the seat of ].
The name "Alsace" can be traced to the ] ''Ali-saz'' or ''Elisaz'', meaning "foreign domain".<ref>{{cite book|last=Bostock|first=John Knight|title=A Handbook on Old High German Literature|year=1976|publisher=Clarendon Press|location=Oxford|isbn=0-19-815392-9|url=http://books.google.com/books?id=IE4rmWpDh3gC&pg=PA20&lpg=PA20|edition=2nd|coauthors=Kenneth Charles King, D. R. McLintock|editor=Kenneth Charles King, D. R. McLintock|page=20}}</ref> An alternative explanation is from a ] ''Ell-sass'', meaning "seated on the ]",<ref>Roland Kaltenbach: ''Le guide de l’Alsace'', La Manufacture 1992, ISBN 2-7377-0308-5, page 36</ref> a river in Alsace. The region, as part of Lorraine, was part of the ], and then was gradually annexed by France in the 18th century, and formalized as one of the ]. The ] manufacturing republic of ], known as ''Stadtrepublik Mülhausen'', become a part of Alsace after a vote by its citizens on 4 January 1798. Alsace is frequently mentioned with and as part of ] and the former duchy of Lorraine, since it was a vital part of the duchy, and later because German possession as the imperial province (], 1871–1918) was contested in the 19th and 20th centuries; France and Germany exchanged control of parts of Lorraine (including Alsace) four times in 75 years.


==Etymology==
The historical language of Alsace is ], a Germanic type (Franconian) dialect spoken in Lorraine and across the Rhine, but today all Alsatians speak French, the official language of France. 43% of the adult population, and 3% of children (3–17 years old), stated in 2012 that they speak Alsatian.<ref> "L'alsacien, deuxième langue régionale de France" Insee, ''Chiffres pour l'Alsace'' no. 12, December 2002</ref><ref>http://www.olcalsace.org/fr/observer-et-veiller/le-dialecte-en-chiffres</ref> The place names used in this article are in French. See this list for the ].
The name ''Alsace'' can be traced to the ] {{lang|goh|Ali-saz}} or ''Elisaz'', meaning "foreign domain".<ref>{{cite book |last=Bostock |first=John Knight |title=A Handbook on Old High German Literature |year=1976 |publisher=Clarendon Press |location=Oxford |isbn=0-19-815392-9 |url=https://archive.org/details/handbookonoldhig00bost |url-access=registration |edition=2nd |author2=Kenneth Charles King |author3=D. R. McLintock |editor=Kenneth Charles King, D. R. McLintock |page=}}</ref> An alternative explanation is from a ] ''Ell-sass'', meaning "seated on the ]",<ref>Roland Kaltenbach: ''Le guide de l’Alsace'', La Manufacture 1992, {{ISBN|2-7377-0308-5}}, page 36</ref> a river in Alsace.


==History== ==History==
{{Main|History of Alsace}}

In prehistoric times, Alsace was inhabited by nomadic hunters. Part of the province of ] in the Roman Empire, the area went on to become a diffuse border region between the French and the German cultures and languages. Long a center of the German-speaking world, after the end of the ], southern Alsace was annexed by France in 1648, with most of the remainder conquered later in the century. In contrast to other parts of France, Protestants were permitted to practise their faith in Alsace even after the ] of 1685 that abolished their privileges in the rest of France.

After the 1870–71 ], Alsace was annexed by Germany and became a part of the 1871 ] ] as a formal "Emperor's Land". After ] the victorious Allies detached it from Germany and the province became part of the ]. Having been occupied and annexed by Germany during ], it was returned to France by the Allies at the end of ].

===Pre-Roman Alsace===
The presence of hominids in Alsace can be traced back 600,000 years.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book |title=Encyclopedia of the World's Minorities |publisher=Routledge|year=2005|isbn=1-57958-468-3 |editor-last=Skutsch|editor-first=Carl |volume=1|location=New York |pages=79}}</ref> By 4000 BCE farming, in the form of ], arrived in the region from the Danube and the Hungarian plain. The culture was characterized by "timber longhouse settlements and incised pottery ... favoring floodplain edge situations for their permanent villages ... small clearings in the forest" for their crops and animals."<ref>{{cite book |last1=Bellwood |first1=Peter |title=First Farmers |date=2005 |publisher=Blackwell Publishing |location=Malden, MA |page=77}}</ref>

By 100 BCE Germanic peoples, including eventually the ] and other tribes under ], had begun to intrude into areas along the upper Rhine and Danube long settled by ] ]. Alsace itself had come to be occupied by the ], a Germanic tribe allied with Ariovistus.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Cary |first1=M. |last2=Scullard |first2=H.H. |title=A History of Rome Down to the Reign of Constantine |date=1979 |publisher=MacMillan Education Ltd |location=London |page=260}}</ref>


===Roman Alsace=== ===Roman Alsace===
In response to the threat posted by ], the ], a Celtic tribe allied to Rome, appealed to the Roman Senate and Julius Caesar for aid. In 58 BCE, after negotiations with Ariovistus failed, ] routed the Suebi at the foot of the Vosges near what became Cernay in southern Alsace.<ref name="Macmillan Education Ltd">{{cite book |last1=Cary |first1=M. |last2=Scullard |first2=H.H. |title=A History of Rome Down to the Age of Constantine |date=1979 |publisher=Macmillan Education Ltd. |location=London |pages=259–261 |edition=third}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |last1=Caesar |first1=Julius |editor1-last=Henderson |editor1-first=Jeffrey |title=The Galllic War, Book 1 |date=2000 |publisher=Harvard University |location=Cambridge, Massachusetts |pages=46-87 (lines 31-54)}}</ref> There followed a "long period of security ... for the Gauls along the middle and upper Rhine."<ref name="Macmillan Education Ltd"/>
In prehistoric times, Alsace was inhabited by nomadic hunters, but by 1500 BC,{{Citation needed|date=August 2011}} ]s began to settle in Alsace, clearing and cultivating the land. By 58 BC, the ] had invaded and established Alsace as a center of ]. To protect this highly valued industry, the Romans built fortifications and military camps that evolved into various communities which have been inhabited continuously to the present day. While part of the ], Alsace was part of ].

From the time of ] to the early fifth century AD, the area of Alsace was incorporated into the Roman province of ].<ref>{{cite book |last1=Sheperd |first1=William |title=Historical Atlas |date=1929 |publisher=Henry Holt and Company |location=New York |pages=38–39 |edition=seventh}}</ref> As a border province, the Romans built fortifications and military camps, many of which, including ] (Strasbourg), evolved into modern towns and cities.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Cary |first1=M. |last2=Scullard |first2=H.H. |title=A History of Rome Down to the Reign of Constantine |date=1979 |publisher=MacMillan Education Ltd |location=London |pages=336 and 458}}</ref>


===Frankish Alsace=== ===Alemannic and Frankish Alsace===
{{Main|Duchy of Alsace}} {{Main|Duchy of Alsace}}
With the ], Alsace became the territory of the ]. The Alemanni were agricultural people, and their language formed the basis of the modern-day Alsatian dialect. ] and the ] defeated the Alemanni during the 5th century, culminating with the ], and Alsace became part of the ]. Under Clovis' ] successors the inhabitants were Christianized. Alsace remained under Frankish control until the ], following the ] of 842, was formally dissolved in 843 at the ]; the grandsons of ] divided the realm into three parts. Alsace formed part of the ], which was ruled by the youngest grandson ]. Lothar died early in 855 and his realm was divided into three parts. The part known as ], or Lorraine, was given to Lothar's son. The rest was shared between Lothar's brothers ] (ruler of the ] realm) and ] (ruler of the ] realm). The Kingdom of Lotharingia was short-lived, however, losing territory and assimilating into the autonomous duchy of Lorraine, with the modern region now known as Alsace (since 1918), being incorporated into the ] in 870. In 357 CE, Germanic tribes attempted to conquer Alsace but they were rebuffed by the Romans.<ref name=":0" /> With the ], Alsace became the territory of the Germanic ]. The Alemanni were agricultural people, and their Germanic language formed the basis of modern-day dialects spoken along the Upper Rhine (], Alemannian, Swabian, Swiss). ] and the ] defeated the Alemanni during the 5th century AD, culminating with the ], and Alsace became part of the ]. Under Clovis' ] successors the inhabitants were Christianized. Alsace remained under Frankish control until the ], following the ] of 842, was formally dissolved in 843 at the ]; the grandsons of ] divided the realm into three parts. Alsace formed part of the ], which was ruled by the eldest grandson ].


Lothar died early in 855 and his realm was divided into three parts. The part known as ], or Lorraine, was given to Lothar's son. The rest was shared between Lothar's brothers ] (ruler of the ] realm) and ] (ruler of the ] realm). The Kingdom of Lotharingia was short-lived, however, becoming the ] of ] in Eastern Francia after the ] in 880. Alsace was united with the other Alemanni east of the Rhine into the stem ].
===Alsace within Lorraine and the Holy Roman Empire===
At about this time the surrounding areas experienced recurring fragmentation and reincorporations among a number of ] secular and ecclesiastical lordships, a common process in the ]. Alsace experienced great prosperity during the 12th and 13th centuries under ]. ] set up Alsace as a province (a '']'', not a '']'') to be ruled by ], a non-noble class of civil servants. The idea was that such men would be more tractable and less likely to alienate the ] from the crown out of their own greed. The province had a single provincial court (]) and a central administration with its seat at ]. ] designated the ] to administer Alsace, but the authority of the bishop was challenged by Count ], who received his rights from Frederick II's son ]. Strasbourg began to grow to become the most populous and commercially important town in the region. In 1262, after a long struggle with the ruling bishops, its citizens gained the status of ]. A stop on the Paris-]-] trade route, as well as a port on the Rhine route linking ] and Switzerland to the Netherlands, England and ], it became the political and economic center of the region. Cities such as ] and ] also began to grow in economic importance and gained a kind of autonomy within the "Decapole" or "Dekapolis", a federation of ten free towns.


===Alsace within the Holy Roman Empire===
As in much of Europe, the prosperity of Alsace was terminated in the 14th century by a series of harsh winters, bad harvests, and the ]. These hardships were blamed on Jews, leading to the ]s of 1336 and 1339. An additional natural disaster was the ] earthquake of 1356, one of Europe's worst which made ruins of ]. Prosperity returned to Alsace under ] administration during the ].
At about this time, the surrounding areas experienced recurring fragmentation and reincorporations among a number of ] secular and ecclesiastical lordships, a common process in the ]. Alsace experienced great prosperity during the 12th and 13th centuries under ].
] (d.1239), inscribed in Latin (with abbreviations): ''SIGILLUM ALBERTI (COMIS) DE HABESB(URG) ET LANGRAVII ALSACTIAE'' ("seal of Albert of Habsburg, Count of Habsburg and Landgrave of Alsace")]]
] set up Alsace as a province (a '']'', not a '']'') to be ruled by ], a non-noble class of civil servants. The idea was that such men would be more tractable and less likely to alienate the ] from the crown out of their own greed. The province had a single provincial court ('']'') and a central administration with its seat at ]. ] designated the ] to administer Alsace, but the authority of the bishop was challenged by Count ], who received his rights from Frederick II's son ]. Strasbourg began to grow to become the most populous and commercially important town in the region.


In 1262, after a long struggle with the ruling bishops, its citizens gained the status of ]. A stop on the ]-]-] trade route, as well as a port on the Rhine route linking ] and Switzerland to the Netherlands, England and ], it became the political and economic center of the region. Cities such as ] and ] also began to grow in economic importance and gained a kind of autonomy within the "]" (or "Zehnstädtebund"), a federation of ten free towns.
], ]]]


Though little is known about the early history of the ], there is a lot of information from the 12th century onwards. They were successful as moneylenders and had the favor of the Emperor.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Wigoder |first1=Geoffrey |title=Jewish Art and Civilization |date=1972 |page=62}}</ref> As in much of Europe, the prosperity of Alsace was brought to an end in the 14th century by a series of harsh winters, bad harvests, and the ]. These hardships were blamed on Jews, leading to the ]s of 1336 and 1339. In 1349, Jews of Alsace were accused of poisoning the wells with ], leading to the massacre of thousands of Jews during the ].<ref>{{cite book |title=The power of plagues |first=Irwin W. |last=Sherman |publisher=Wiley-Blackwell |year=2006 |isbn=1-55581-356-9 |page=74 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=LOjqWL-u9VMC&q=strasbourg+pogrom+february+14+1349&pg=PA74}}</ref> Jews were subsequently forbidden to settle in the town. An additional natural disaster was the ] earthquake of 1356, one of Europe's worst which made ruins of ]. Prosperity returned to Alsace under ] administration during the ].
German central power had begun to decline following years of imperial adventures in Italian lands, ceding hegemony in Europe to France, which had long since centralized power. France began an aggressive policy of expanding eastward, first to the ] and ] Rivers, and when those borders were reached, aiming for the Rhine. In 1299, the French proposed a marriage alliance between ]'s sister ] and ]'s son ], with Alsace to be the dowry; however, the deal never came off. In 1307, the town of ] was first chartered by the Counts of ]. During the next century, France was to be militarily shattered by the ], which prevented for a time any further tendencies in this direction. After the conclusion of the war, France was again free to pursue its desire to reach the Rhine and in 1444 a French army appeared in Lorraine and Alsace. It took up winter quarters, demanded the submission of ] and ] and launched an attack on ].


], ]]]
In 1469, following the ], Upper Alsace was sold by Archduke ] to ], Duke of Burgundy. Although Charles was the nominal landlord, taxes were paid to ]. The latter was able to use this tax and a dynastic marriage to his advantage to gain back full control of Upper Alsace (apart from the free towns, but including Belfort) in 1477 when it became part of the demesne of the Habsburg family, who were also rulers of the empire. The town of Mulhouse joined the Swiss Confederation in 1515, where it was to remain until 1798.


Holy Roman Empire central power had begun to decline following years of imperial adventures in Italian lands, often ceding hegemony in Western Europe to France, which had long since centralized power. France began an aggressive policy of expanding eastward, first to the rivers ] and ], and when those borders were reached, aiming for the Rhine. In 1299 the French proposed a marriage alliance between ] (sister of ]) and ] (son of ]), with Alsace to be the dowry; however, the deal never came off. In 1307, the town of ] was first chartered by the Counts of ]. During the next century, France was to be militarily shattered by the ], which prevented for a time any further tendencies in this direction. After the conclusion of the war, France was again free to pursue its desire to reach the Rhine and in 1444 a French army appeared in Lorraine and Alsace. It took up winter quarters, demanded the submission of ] and ] and launched an attack on ].
By the time of the ] in the 16th century, Strasbourg was a prosperous community, and its inhabitants accepted Protestantism in 1523. ] was a prominent Protestant reformer in the region. His efforts were countered by the Roman Catholic Habsburgs who tried to eradicate heresy in Upper Alsace. As a result, Alsace was transformed into a mosaic of Catholic and Protestant territories. On the other hand, ] to the southwest of Alsace, belonging to the Counts of ] since 1397, remained a Protestant enclave in France until 1793.


In 1469, following the {{Interlanguage link|Treaty of St. Omer|fr|3=Traité de Saint-Omer}}, Upper Alsace was sold by Archduke ] to ], Duke of Burgundy. Although Charles was the nominal landlord, taxes were paid to ]. The latter was able to use this tax and a dynastic marriage to his advantage to gain back full control of Upper Alsace (apart from the free towns, but including Belfort) in 1477 when it became part of the demesne of the Habsburg family, who were also rulers of the empire. The town of Mulhouse joined the ] in 1515, where it was to remain until 1798.
===Incorporation into France===
This situation prevailed until 1639 when most of Alsace was conquered by France to prevent it falling into the hands of the ], who wanted a clear road to their valuable and rebellious possessions in the ]. This occurred in the greater context of the ] (1618–48). Beset by enemies and to gain a free hand in Hungary, the Habsburgs sold their ] territory (mostly in Upper Alsace) to France in 1646, which had occupied it, for the sum of 1.2&nbsp;million ]s. Thus, when the hostilities finally ceased in 1648 with the ], most of Alsace went to France with some towns remaining independent. The treaty stipulations regarding Alsace were ] and confusing; it is thought that this was purposely so that neither the French king nor the German emperor could gain tight control, but that one would play-off the other, thereby assuring Alsace some measure of autonomy.{{Citation needed|date=September 2011}} Supporters of this theory point out that the treaty stipulations were authored by Imperial plenipotentiary ], the former Chancellor of Alsace.{{Citation needed|date=October 2011}} The transfer of most of Alsace to France at the ] in 1648 marked its start, along with ], as a territory claimed by both France and Germany.{{Citation needed|date=September 2011}}


By the time of the ] in the 16th century, Strasbourg was a prosperous community, and its inhabitants accepted Protestantism in 1523. ] was a prominent Protestant reformer in the region. His efforts were countered by the Roman Catholic Habsburgs who tried to eradicate heresy in Upper Alsace. As a result, Alsace was transformed into a mosaic of Catholic and Protestant territories. On the other hand, ] to the southwest of Alsace, belonging to the Counts of ] since 1397, remained a Protestant enclave in France until 1793.
Because warfare had caused much of the population (mainly in the countryside) to die or to flee, many immigrants arrived from Switzerland, Germany, Austria, Lorraine, ] and other areas after 1648 and until the mid-18th century.{{Citation needed|date=September 2011}} Between 1671 and 1711 ] refugees came from Switzerland, notably from ].{{Citation needed|date=September 2011}} Strasbourg became a main centre of the early Anabaptist movement.{{Citation needed|date=September 2011}}

===German ''Land'' within the Kingdom of France===
This situation prevailed until 1639, when most of Alsace was conquered by France to keep it out of the hands of the ], who by ] in 1617 had gained a clear road to their valuable and rebellious possessions in the ], the ]. Beset by enemies and seeking to gain a free hand in ], the Habsburgs sold their ] territory (mostly in Upper Alsace) to France in 1646, which had occupied it, for the sum of 1.2&nbsp;million ]s. When hostilities were concluded in 1648 with the ], most of Alsace was recognized as part of France, although some towns remained independent. The treaty stipulations regarding Alsace were complex. Although the French king gained sovereignty, existing rights and customs of the inhabitants were largely preserved. France continued to maintain its customs border along the ] where it had been, leaving Alsace more economically oriented to neighbouring German-speaking lands. The German language remained in use in local administration, in schools, and at the (Lutheran) ], which continued to draw students from other German-speaking lands. The 1685 ], by which the French king ordered the suppression of ], was not applied in Alsace. France did endeavour to promote Catholicism. ], for example, which had been Lutheran from 1524 to 1681, was returned to the Catholic Church. However, compared to the rest of France, Alsace enjoyed a climate of ].


] receiving the keys of Strasbourg in 1681]] ] receiving the keys of Strasbourg in 1681]]
France consolidated its hold with the 1679 ], which brought most remaining towns under its control. France seized Strasbourg in 1681 in an unprovoked action. These territorial changes were recognised in the 1697 ] that ended the ].
France consolidated her hold with the 1679 ], which brought the towns under her control. France occupied Strasbourg in 1681 in an unprovoked action, and from 1688 onwards devastated large parts of southern Germany according to the ] policy. These territorial changes were reinforced at the 1697 ] which ended the ]. However, Alsace had a somewhat exceptional position in the Kingdom of France. The German language was still used in local government, school, and education and the German (Lutheran) ] was continued and attended by students from Germany. The ], which legalized the suppression of ], was not applied in Alsace. In contrast to the rest of France, there was a relative religious tolerance, although the French authorities tried to promote Catholicism; ], for example, which had been Lutheran from 1524 to 1681, was returned to the Catholic Church. There was a customs boundary along the ] against the rest of France while there was no such boundary against Germany. For these reasons Alsace remained marked by German culture and economically oriented towards Germany until the ].
But Alsace still contained islands of territory nominally under the sovereignty of German princes and an independent city-state at Mulhouse. These enclaves were established by law, prescription and international consensus.<ref>{{cite book |title=The Oxford History of the French Revolution |first=William |last=Doyle |publisher=Oxford University Press |year=1989 |page=7 |isbn=978-0-19-880493-2 |url=https://global.oup.com/academic/product/the-oxford-history-of-the-french-revolution-9780198804932?cc=us&lang=en&}}</ref>


===French Revolution=== ===From French Revolution to the Franco-Prussian War===
[[File:Enseigne Alsacienne revolutionnaire.jpg|thumb|Alsatian sign, 1792:<br /> [[File:Enseigne Alsacienne revolutionnaire.jpg|thumb|Alsatian sign, 1792:<br />
''Freiheit Gleichheit Brüderlichk. od. Tod'' (Liberty Equality Fraternity or Death)<br /> ''Freiheit Gleichheit Brüderlichk. od. Tod'' (Liberty Equality Fraternity or Death)<br />
''Tod den Tyranen'' (Death to Tyrans)<br /> ''Tod den Tyranen'' (Death to Tyrants)<br />
''Heil den Völkern'' (Long live the Peoples)]] ''Heil den Völkern'' (Long live the Peoples)]]
The year 1789 brought the French Revolution and with it the first division of Alsace into the départements of ] and ]. Alsatians played an active role in the French Revolution. On 21 July 1789, after receiving news of the ] in Paris, a crowd of people stormed the Strasbourg city hall, forcing the city administrators to flee and putting symbolically an end to the feudal system in Alsace. In 1792, ] composed in Strasbourg the Revolutionary marching song "]" (as ''Marching song for the Army of the Rhine''), which later became the anthem of France. "La Marseillaise" was played for the first time in April of that year in front of the mayor of Strasbourg ]. Some of the most famous generals of the French Revolution also came from Alsace, notably ], the victor of ], ], who led the armies of the French Republic in ] and ], who also fought in the Vendée. The year 1789 brought the French Revolution and with it the first division of Alsace into the départements of ] and ]. Alsatians played an active role in the French Revolution. On 21 July 1789, after receiving news of the ] in Paris, a crowd of people stormed the Strasbourg city hall, forcing the city administrators to flee and putting symbolically an end to the feudal system in Alsace. In 1792, ] composed in Strasbourg the Revolutionary marching song "]" (as ''Marching song for the Army of the Rhine''), which later became the anthem of France. "La Marseillaise" was played for the first time in April of that year in front of the ] of Strasbourg ]. Some of the most famous generals of the French Revolution also came from Alsace, notably ], the victor of ], ], who led the armies of the French Republic in ], and ], who also fought in the Vendée.

] (a city in southern Alsace), which had been part of Switzerland since 1466, joined France in 1798.<ref name=":0" />

At the same time, some Alsatians were in opposition to the ] and sympathetic to the restoration of the monarchy pursued by the invading forces of ] and ] who sought to crush the nascent ]. Many of the residents of the ] made "pilgrimages" to places like ], near ], in Switzerland, for baptisms and weddings. When the ] of the Rhine was victorious, tens of thousands fled east before it. When they were later permitted to return (in some cases not until 1799), it was often to find that their lands and homes had been confiscated. These conditions led to emigration by hundreds of families to newly vacant lands in the ] in 1803–4 and again in 1808. A poignant retelling of this event based on what ] had personally witnessed can be found in his long poem '']''.


In response to the ] of ] in 1815, Alsace along with other frontier provinces of France was occupied by foreign forces from 1815 to 1818,<ref>Veve, Thomas Dwight (1992). ''The Duke of Wellington and the British army of occupation in France, 1815–1818'', pp. 20–21. Greenwood Press, Westport, Connecticut, United States.</ref> including over 280,000 soldiers and 90,000 horses in Bas-Rhin alone. This had grave effects on trade and the economy of the region since former overland trade routes were switched to newly opened ] and ] seaports.
At the same time, some Alsatians were in opposition to the ] and sympathetic to the invading forces of ] and ] who sought to crush the nascent revolutionary republic. Many of the residents of the ] made "pilgrimages" to places like ], near ], in Switzerland, for baptisms and weddings. When the ] of the Rhine was victorious, tens of thousands fled east before it. When they were later permitted to return (in some cases not until 1799), it was often to find that their lands and homes had been confiscated. These conditions led to emigration by hundreds of families to newly vacant lands in the ] in 1803–4 and again in 1808. A poignant retelling of this event based on what ] had personally witnessed can be found in his long poem '']''.


The population grew rapidly, from 800,000 in 1814 to 914,000 in 1830 and 1,067,000 in 1846. The combination of economic and demographic factors led to hunger, housing shortages and a lack of work for young people. Thus, it is not surprising that people left Alsace, not only for Paris – where the Alsatian community grew in numbers, with famous members such as ] – but also for more distant places like Russia and the ], to take advantage of the new opportunities offered there: Austria had conquered lands in Eastern Europe from the ] and offered generous terms to colonists as a way of consolidating its hold on the new territories. Many Alsatians also began to sail to the United States, settling in many areas from 1820 to 1850.<ref>{{cite web |url = http://members.cox.net/smithgen/sources/ships/ships18201850notes.htm#sully1838match |title = Cox.net |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20060504053923/http://members.cox.net/smithgen/sources/ships/ships18201850notes.htm#sully1838match |archive-date=4 May 2006 |url-status=dead}}</ref> In 1843 and 1844, sailing ships bringing immigrant families from Alsace arrived at the port of New York. Some settled in Texas and Illinois, many to farm or to seek success in commercial ventures: for example, the sailing ships ''Sully'' (in May 1843) and ''Iowa'' (in June 1844) brought families who set up homes in northern Illinois and northern Indiana. Some Alsatian immigrants were noted for their roles in 19th-century American economic development.<ref> {{webarchive |url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110723154212/http://will.ilgenweb.net/bios/scheidtj.txt |date=23 July 2011}}</ref> Others ventured to Canada to settle in southwestern ], notably ].
In response to the restoration of ] in 1815, Alsace along with other frontier provinces of France was occupied by foreign forces from 1815 to 1818,<ref>Veve, Thomas Dwight (1992). ''The Duke of Wellington and the British army of occupation in France, 1815–1818'', pp. 20–21. Greenwood Press, Westport, Connecticut, United States.</ref> including over 280,000 soldiers and 90,000 horses in Bas-Rhin alone. This had grave effects on trade and the economy of the region since former overland trade routes were switched to newly opened ] and ] seaports.


====Alsatian Jews====
The population grew rapidly, from 800,000 in 1814 to 914,000 in 1830 and 1,067,000 in 1846. The combination of economic and demographic factors led to hunger, housing shortages and a lack of work for young people. Thus, it is not surprising that people left Alsace, not only for Paris – where the Alsatian community grew in numbers, with famous members such as ] – but also for more distant places like Russia and the ], to take advantage of the new opportunities offered there: Austria had conquered lands in Eastern Europe from the ] and offered generous terms to colonists as a way of consolidating its hold on the new territories. Many Alsatians also began to sail to the United States, settling in many areas from 1820 to 1850.<ref>http://members.cox.net/smithgen/sources/ships/ships18201850notes.htm#sully1838match</ref> In 1843 and 1844, sailing ships bringing immigrant families from Alsace arrived at the port of New York. Some settled in Illinois, many to farm or to seek success in commercial ventures: for example, the sailing ships ''Sully'' (in May 1843) and ''Iowa'' (in June 1844) brought families who set up homes in northern Illinois and northern Indiana. Some Alsatian immigrants were noted for their roles in 19th-century American economic development.<ref>{{dead link|date=March 2012}}</ref> Others ventured to Canada to settle in southwestern ], notably ].
{{Main|History of the Jews in Alsace}}
In contrast to the rest of France, the Jews in Alsace had not been expelled during the Middle Ages. By 1790, the ] population of Alsace was approximately 22,500, about 3% of the provincial population. They were highly segregated and subject to long-standing ] regulations. They maintained their own customs, ] language, and historic traditions within the tightly knit ghettos; they adhered to Jewish law. Jews were barred from most cities and instead lived in villages. They concentrated in trade, services, and banking. They financed about a third of the mortgages in Alsace. Official tolerance grew during the French Revolution, with full emancipation in 1791. However, local antisemitism also increased and Napoleon turned hostile in 1806, imposing a one-year moratorium on all debts owed to Jews.<ref>{{cite journal |last1=Necheles |first1=Ruth F. |date=1971 |title=The Abbé Grégoire and the Jews. |url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/4466643 |journal=Jewish Social Studies |volume=33 |issue=2/3 |pages=120–40 |jstor=4466643 |access-date=15 February 2024}}</ref> In the 1830–1870 era, most Jews moved to the cities, where they integrated and acculturated, as antisemitism sharply declined. By 1831, the state began paying salaries to official rabbis, and in 1846 a special legal oath for Jews was discontinued. Antisemitic local riots occasionally occurred, especially during the Revolution of 1848. The merger of Alsace into Germany in 1871–1918 lessened antisemitic violence.<ref>{{cite book |first=Vicki |last=Caron |chapter=Alsace |editor-first=Richard S. |editor-last=Levy |title=Antisemitism: A Historical Encyclopedia of Prejudice and Persecution |year=2005 |volume=1 |pages=13–16 |publisher=Abc-Clio |isbn=9781851094394 |chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Tdn6FFZklkcC&pg=PA13 }}</ref> The constitution of the ''Reichsland'' of 1911 reserved one seat in the first chamber of the ''Landtag'' for a representative of the Jewish Consistory of Alsace–Lorraine (besides two seats respectively for the two main Christian denominations).


===Between France and Germany=== ===Struggle between France and united Germany===
{{Main|Alsace-Lorraine}} {{Main|Alsace–Lorraine}}
{{Blockquote|''We Germans who know Germany and France know better what is good for the Alsatians than the unfortunates themselves. In the perversion of their French life they have no exact idea of what concerns Germany.''|], ] historian and politician, 1871<ref>{{cite web|url=https://archive.org/stream/alsacelorraines00cerfgoog/alsacelorraines00cerfgoog_djvu.txt|title=Full text of "Alsace–Lorraine since 1870"|year=1919|publisher=New York, The Macmillan}}</ref><ref> by ], '']'', 30 May 1915</ref>}}
] ]
France started the ] (1870–71), and was defeated by the ] and other German states. The end of the war led to the ]. ] annexed Alsace and northern Lorraine to the new ] in 1871;<ref>In fact, France ceded more than nine-tenths of Alsace and one-fourth of Lorraine as stipulated in the ]. ''De jure'', that wasn't an annexation any more.</ref> unlike other members states of the German federation, which had governments of their own, the new ''Imperial territory of Alsace-Lorraine'' was under the sole authority of the ], administered directly by the imperial government in Berlin. Between 100,000 to 130,000 Alsatians (of a total population of about a million and a half) chose to remain French citizens and leave ''Reichsland Elsaß-Lothringen'', many of them resettling in ] as ]s. Only in 1911 was Alsace-Lorraine granted some measure of autonomy, which was manifested also in a flag and an anthem (]). In 1913, however, the ] (German: Zabern-Affäre) showed the limits of this new tolerance of the Alsatian identity. The ], which ] in July 1870, saw France defeated in May 1871 by the ] and other German states. The end of the war led to the ]. ] annexed Alsace and northern Lorraine to the new ] in 1871. France ceded more than 90% of Alsace and one-fourth of Lorraine, as stipulated in the ]; ], the largest Alsatian town south of Mulhouse, remained French. Unlike other member states of the German federation, which had governments of their own, the new ''Imperial territory of Alsace–Lorraine'' was under the sole authority of the ], administered directly by the imperial government in Berlin. Between 100,000 and 130,000 Alsatians (of a total population of about a million and a half) chose to remain French citizens and leave ''Reichsland Elsaß–Lothringen'', many of them resettling in ] as ]. Only in 1911 was Alsace–Lorraine granted some measure of autonomy, which was manifested also in a flag and an anthem (]). In 1913, however, the ] (''French'': Incident de Saverne) showed the limits of this new tolerance of the Alsatian identity.
]]] ] in the 1870s]]


During World War I, to avoid ground fights between brothers, many Alsatians served as sailors in the ] and took part in the Naval mutinies that led to the abdication of the Kaiser in November 1918, which left Alsace-Lorraine without a nominal head of state. The sailors returned home and tried to found a republic. While ], at this time deputy at the ''Landrat Elsass-Lothringen'' and just elected ], proclaimed the forfeiture of the German Empire and the advent of the French Republic, a self-proclaimed government of Alsace-Lorraine declared independence as the "]". French troops entered Alsace less than two weeks later to quash the worker strikes and remove the newly established soviets and revolutionaries from power. At the arrival of the French soldiers, many Alsatians and local Prussian/German administrators and bureaucrats cheered the re-establishment of order (which can be seen and is described in detail in the reference video below).<ref>Have a look at this .</ref> Although U.S. President ] had insisted that the ''région'' was self-ruling by legal status, as its constitution had stated it was bound to the sole authority of the Kaiser and not to the German state, France tolerated no plebiscite, as granted by the ] to some eastern German territories at this time, because Alsatians were considered by the French public as fellow Frenchmen liberated from German rule. Germany ceded the region to France under the ]. During the First World War, to avoid ground fights between brothers, many Alsatians served as sailors in the ] and took part in the Naval mutinies that led to the abdication of the Kaiser in November 1918, which left Alsace–Lorraine without a nominal head of state. The sailors returned home and tried to found an independent republic. While ], at this time deputy at the ''Landrat Elsass–Lothringen'' and just elected ], proclaimed the forfeiture of the German Empire and the advent of the ], a self-proclaimed government of Alsace–Lorraine declared its independence as the "]". French troops entered Alsace less than two weeks later to quash the worker strikes and remove the newly established Soviets and revolutionaries from power. With the arrival of the French soldiers, many Alsatians and local Prussian/German administrators and bureaucrats cheered the re-establishment of order.<ref>{{cite web| url = http://www.ina.fr/archivespourtous/popup.php?vue=partenaire&partenariat=1df07ccad656b16c3f7dcd36ce620f11| title = Archive video}}</ref>


Although U.S. President ] had insisted that the ''région'' was self-ruling by legal status, as its constitution had stated it was bound to the sole authority of the Kaiser and not to the German state, France would allow no plebiscite, as granted by the ] to some eastern German territories at this time, because the French regarded the Alsatians as Frenchmen liberated from German rule. Germany ceded the region to France under the ].
After World War I, the establishment of German identity in Alsace was reversed, as all Germans who had settled in Alsace since 1871 were expelled.{{Citation needed|date=March 2010}} Policies forbidding the use of German and requiring that of French were introduced.<ref>Howver, propaganda for elections was allowed to go with a German translation from 1919 to 2008.</ref> However, in order not to antagonize the Alsatians, the region was not subjected to some legal changes that had occurred in the rest of France between 1871 and 1919, such as the 1905 French Law of ].

Policies forbidding the use of German and requiring French were promptly introduced.<ref>However, propaganda for elections was allowed to go with a German translation from 1919 to 2008.</ref> In order not to antagonize the Alsatians, the region was not subjected to some legal changes that had occurred in the rest of France between 1871 and 1919, such as the ].


] marked with "Elsaß" (1940)]] ] marked with "Elsaß" (1940)]]


Alsace-Lorraine was occupied by Germany in 1940 during World War II. Although Germany never formally annexed Alsace-Lorraine, it was incorporated into the ], which had been restructured into ]e. Alsace was merged with ], and Lorraine with the ], to become part of a planned ]. During the war, 130,000 young men from Alsace and Lorraine were forcibly inducted into the German army and in some cases, the ].<ref>Stéphane Courtois, Mark Kramer. ''''. ], 1999. p.323. ISBN 0-674-07608-7</ref> Alsace–Lorraine was occupied by Germany in 1940 during the Second World War. Although it was never formally annexed, Alsace–Lorraine was incorporated into the ], which had been restructured into ]e. Alsace was merged with ], and Lorraine with the ], to become part of a planned ]. During the war, 130,000 young men from Alsace and Lorraine were conscripted into the German armies against their will (]). There were some volunteers for the ].,<ref>Stéphane Courtois, Mark Kramer. ''''. ], 1999. p.323. {{ISBN|0-674-07608-7}}</ref> although they were outnumbered by conscripts of the 1926–1927 classes. Thirty of said Waffen SS were involved in the ] (29 conscripts, one volunteer). A third of the malgré-nous perished on the Eastern front. In July 1944, 1500 ] were released from Soviet captivity and sent to ], where they joined the ].


===After World War II===
Today the territory enjoys laws in certain areas that are significantly different from the rest of France – this is known as the ].
Today, the territory is in certain areas subject to some laws that are significantly different from the rest of France, which is known as the ].


In more recent years, Alsatian is again being promoted by local, national and European authorities as an element of the region's identity. Alsatian is taught in schools (but not mandatory) as one of the regional languages of France. German is also taught as a foreign language in local ]s and schools. However, the ] still requires that French be the only official language of the Republic. In more recent years, the Alsatian language is again being promoted by local, national and European authorities as an element of the region's identity. Alsatian is taught in schools (but is not mandatory) as one of the regional languages of France. German is also taught as a foreign language in local ]s and schools. There is a growing network of schools proposing full immersion in Alsatian dialect and in Standard German, called '']'' (ABCM -> French ] for "Association for Bilingualism in the Classroom from Kindergarten onwards", Zweisprachigkeit -> German for "Bilingualism"). However, the ] still requires that French be the only official language of the Republic.


===Timeline=== ===Timeline===
Line 108: Line 156:
! style="width:12%;"|Official or common language ! style="width:12%;"|Official or common language
|- |-
| 5400–4500 BC || Bandkeramiker/Linear Pottery cultures||—||None | 5400–4500 BC || Bandkeramiker/]s||—||Unknown
|- |-
| 2300–750 BC || Bell Beaker cultures||—||None; Proto-Celtic spoken | 2300–750 BC || ]s||—||Proto-Celtic spoken
|- |-
| 750–450 BC || Halstatt early Iron Age culture (early Celts)||—||None; Old Celtic spoken | 750–450 BC || ] early ] (early Celts)||—||None; Old ] spoken
|- |-
| 450–58 BC || Celts/Gauls firmly secured in entire Gaul, Alsace; trade with Greece is evident (]) || Celts/Gauls || None; Gaulish variety of Celtic widely spoken | 450–58 BC || Celts/Gauls firmly secured in entire Gaul, Alsace; trade with ] is evident (]) || Celts/Gauls || None; Gaulish variety of Celtic widely spoken
|- |-
| 58 / 44 BC–<br>AD 260 || Alsace and Gaul conquered by Caesar, provinciated to ] || ] || ]; Gallic widely spoken | 58 / 44 BC–<br />AD 260 || Alsace and Gaul conquered by ], provinciated to ] || ] || ]; Gallic widely spoken
|- |-
| 260–274 || Postumus founds breakaway Gallic Empire || ] || Latin, Gallic | 260–274 || Postumus founds breakaway Gallic Empire || ] || Latin, Gallic
|- |-
| 274–286 || Rome reconquers the Gallic Empire, Alsace || ] || Latin, Germanic (only in ]) | 274–286 || Rome reconquers the Gallic Empire, Alsace || ] || Latin, Gallic, Germanic (only in ])
|- |-
| 286–378 || ] divides the Roman Empire into Western and Eastern sectors || Roman Empire | 286–378 || ] divides the Roman Empire into Western and Eastern sectors || Roman Empire
Line 126: Line 174:
| around 300 || Beginning of Germanic migrations to the Roman Empire || Roman Empire | around 300 || Beginning of Germanic migrations to the Roman Empire || Roman Empire
|- |-
| 378–395 || The ] rebel, precursor to waves of German, and Hun invasions || Roman Empire | 378–395 || The ] rebel, precursor to waves of German, and Hun invasions || Roman Empire || Alamannic Incursions
|- |-
| 395–436 || Death of ], causing a permanent division between Western and Eastern Rome || ] | 395–436 || Death of ], causing a permanent division between Western and Eastern Rome || ]
|- |-
| 436–486 || Germanic invasions of the Western Roman Empire || ] | 436–486 || Germanic invasions of the Western Roman Empire || ] || Alamannic
|- |-
| 486–511 || Lower Alsace conquered by the Franks || ] || ], Latin | 486–511 || Lower Alsace conquered by the Franks || ] || ], Latin; Alamannic
|- |-
| 531–614 || Upper Alsace conquered by the Franks || Frankish Realm | 531–614 || Upper Alsace conquered by the Franks || Frankish Realm
Line 138: Line 186:
| 614–795 || Totality of Alsace to the Frankish Kingdom || Frankish Realm | 614–795 || Totality of Alsace to the Frankish Kingdom || Frankish Realm
|- |-
| 795–814 || ] begins reign, Charlemagne crowned ] on 25 December 800 || Frankish Empire || Old Frankish | 795–814 || ] begins reign, Charlemagne crowned ] on 25 December 800 || Frankish Empire || Old Frankish; Frankish and Alamannic
|- |-
| 814|| Death of Charlemagne || Carolingian Empire || Old Frankish, ] | 814|| Death of Charlemagne || Carolingian Empire || Old Frankish; Frankish and Alamannic varieties of ]
|- |-
| 847–870 || ] gives Alsace and Lotharingia to ] || ] (Carolingian Empire) || Frankish, Old High German | 847–870 || ] gives Alsace and Lotharingia to ] || ] (Carolingian Empire) || Frankish; Frankish and Alamannic varieties of Old High German
|- |-
| 870–889 || ] gives Alsace to East Francia || ] (German Kingdom of the Carolingian Empire) || Frankish, Old High German | 870–889 || ] gives Alsace to East Francia || ] (German Kingdom of the Carolingian Empire) || Frankish, Frankish and Alamannic varieties of Old High German
|- |-
| 889–962 || Carolingian Empire breaks up into five Kingdoms, Magyars and Vikings periodically raid Alsace || ] || Old High German, Frankish | 889–962 || Carolingian Empire breaks up into five Kingdoms, Magyars and Vikings periodically raid Alsace || ] ||Frankish and Alamannic varieties of Old High German
|- |-
| 962–1618 || ] crowned ] || ] || ], ] (] spoken widely) | 962–1618 || ] crowned ] || ] || ], ], ]; Alamannic and Franconian German dialects
|- |-
| 1618–1674 || ] annexes portions of Alsace during the ] || Holy Roman Empire || German | 1618–1674 || ] annexes portions of Alsace during the ] || Holy Roman Empire || German; Alamannic and Franconian dialects (Alsatian)
|- |-
| 1674–1871 || ] annexes the rest of Alsace during the ], establishing full French sovereignty over the region || Kingdom of France || French<br /> (Alsatian and German tolerated) | 1674–1871 || ] annexes the rest of Alsace during the ], establishing full French sovereignty over the region || Kingdom of France || Officially French<br /> (Alsatian and German tolerated and spoken by an estimated 85%-90% of the population)
|- |-
| 1871–1918 || ] causes French cession of Alsace to ] || ] || German | 1871–1918 || ] causes French cession of Alsace to ] || ] || German; German/Alsatian (86.8% - 1,492,347 people), French (11.5% - 198,318 people), Italian (1.1% - 18,750 people), German and a second language (0.4% - 7,485 people), Polish (0.1% - 1,410 people). Statistics from 1871. Over time, French declined to 10.9%
|- |-
| 1919–1940 || ] causes German cession of Alsace to France || ] || French | 1919–1940 || ] causes German cession of Alsace to France || ] || French; Alsatian, French, German
|- |-
| 1940–1944 || ] conquers Alsace || ] || German | 1940–1944 || ] conquers Alsace, establishing ] || ] || German; Alsatian, French, German
|- |-
| 1945–present || French control || France || French | 1945–present || French control || France || French; French and Alsatian German (declining minority language)
|} |}


==Tourism== ==Geography==
===Topography===
Having been early and always densely populated, Alsace is famous for its high number of picturesque villages, churches and castles and for the various beauties of its three main towns, in spite of severe destructions suffered throughout five centuries of wars between France and Germany.
]

Alsace is furthermore famous for its vineyards (especially along the 170&nbsp;km of the '']'' from ] to ]) and the ] with their thick and green forests and picturesque lakes.

]]]
] from the ]]]
* Old towns of ], ], ], ], ], ]
* Smaller cities and villages: ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ] and the gardens of the blue house in ]<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.belocal.de/uttenhoffen/sights/jardins_de_la_ferme_bleue/seite_1,145814,2,145815.html |title=Jardins de la ferme bleue – SehenswĂźrdigkeiten in Uttenhoffen, ElsaĂ&#x; |publisher=beLocal.de |date=23 November 2011 |accessdate=2012-03-30}}</ref>
* Churches (as main sights in otherwise less remarkable places): ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ] and the fortified church at ]
* ]
* ]: Ortenbourg and ] (above Sélestat), Hohlandsbourg, ], ] (above Saverne), Saint-Ulrich (above Ribeauvillé), Lichtenberg, Wangenbourg, the three Castles of ], ], Wasigenstein, ], Grand Geroldseck, ]
* Musée de l'automobile de Mulhouse
* Cité du train museum in Mulhouse
* The ] museum in Mulhouse
* ]'s "''écomusée''" (open air museum) and "'']''" (leisure park about environment)
* Musée historique in ], largest museum in Bas-Rhin outside of Strasbourg
* Bibliothèque humaniste in Sélestat, one of the oldest public libraries in the world
* ]s in Kaysersberg, Strasbourg, Mulhouse and Colmar
* Departmental Centre of the History of Families (CDHF) in Guebwiller
* The ]: ]
* ]
* ] (Alsace Wine Route)
* Mémorial d'Alsace-Lorraine in ]
* ], the only German ] on French territory during WWII
* ]: Massif du Donon, ], Petit Ballon, ], ], ]
* ]: Parc naturel des Vosges du Nord
* ]: Parc naturel régional des Ballons des Vosges (south of the ])


Alsace has an area of 8,283&nbsp;km<sup>2</sup>, making it the smallest {{lang|fr|]}} of ]. It is almost four times longer than it is wide, corresponding to a plain between the ] in the east and the ] in the west.
==Climate==
Alsace has a semi-] with cold and dry winters and hot summers. There is little precipitation because the ] protect it from the west. The city of ] has a ] ]; it is the second driest city in France, with an annual precipitation of just 550&nbsp;mm, making it ideal for '']'' (''Alsatian wine'').


It includes the {{lang|fr|]}} of ] and ] (known previously as ] and ]). It borders Germany on the north and the east, Switzerland and ] on the south and ] on the west.
==Topography==
]


Several ]s are also found in the {{lang|fr|région}}. Its highest point is the ] in ], which reaches a height of {{Convert|1424|m|ft|abbr=on}}. It contains many forests, primarily in the ] and in ] (Haguenau Forest).
Alsace has an area of 8,283&nbsp;km², making it the smallest '']'' of ]. It is almost four times longer than it is wide, corresponding to a plain between the ] in the east and the ] in the west.


The ] lies along the ].
It includes the '']'' of ] and ] (known previously as ] and ]). It borders Germany on the north and the east, Switzerland and ] on the south, and ] on the west.


===Geology===
Several ]s are also found in the ''région''. Its highest point is the '']'' in ], which reaches a height of 1426&nbsp;m.
{{see also|Vosges and Jura coal mining basins}}

==Geology==
], southern face, seen from the valley of the ]]] ], southern face, seen from the valley of the ]]]


Alsace is the part of the plain of the Rhine located at the west of the ], on its left bank. It is a ] or ], from the ] ], associated with its ]: the ] and the ]. Alsace is the part of the plain of the Rhine located at the west of the ], on its left bank. It is a ] or ], from the ] ], associated with its ]: the ] and the ].


The ], formed by slip (induced by the alpine uplift) of the ] cover on the ] formations, goes through the area of ]. The ], formed by slip (induced by the alpine uplift) of the ] cover on the ] formations, goes through the area of ].


==Flora== ===Climate===
Alsace has an ] at low altitude and a ] at high altitude. There is fairly low precipitation because the ] protect it from the west. The city of ] has a ] ]; it is the second driest city in France, with an annual precipitation of around {{Convert|700|mm|in|abbr=on}}, making it ideal for {{lang|fr|]}} (''Alsatian wine'').
It contains many forests, primarily in the ] and in ] (Haguenau Forest).


==Politics== ==Governance==
]]]
{{Main|Alsace Regional Council}}
Since 2021, Alsace has been a ] called the ] (''collectivité européenne d'Alsace'').

Alsace is one of the most conservative ''régions'' of France. It is one of just two ''régions'' in ] where the conservative right won the ] and thus controls the ]. Conservative leader Nicolas Sarkozy got his best score in Alsace (over 65%) in the second round of the ]. The president of the Regional Council is ], a member of the ], elected in the 2010 regional election. The frequently changing status of the ''région'' throughout history has left its mark on modern day politics in terms of a particular interest in ] issues.
Alsace is also one of the most pro-EU regions of France. It was one of the few French regions that voted 'yes' to the ] in 2005.


===Administrative divisions=== ===Administrative divisions===
The European Collectivity of Alsace is divided into 2 ] (''circonscriptions départementales''), 9 ], 40 ], and 880 ].
]


]
The ] is divided into 2 ], 13 ], 75 ] (not shown here), and 904 ]:
''']'''
* ]
* ]
* ]
* ]
* ]
]
''']'''
* ]
* ]
* ]
* ]
* ]


==Society==
{|
''']'''<br />
(Number of communes in parentheses)
* ] (56)
* ] (69)
* ] (128)
* ] (101)
* ] (104)<ref name="ReferenceA">Note: the commune of Strasbourg is not inside the arrondissement of Strasbourg-Campagne but it is nonetheless the seat of the Strasbourg-Campagne '']'' buildings and administration.</ref>
* ] (1)
* ] (68)


===Demographics===
''']'''<br />
Alsace's population increased to 1,919,745 in 2021.<ref name=pop /> It has regularly increased over time, except in wartime and shortly after the German annexation of 1871 (when many Alsatians who had opted to keep their French citizenship emigrated to France), by both natural growth and ]. High population growth during the post-WW2 economic boom of the '']'' ended after the ]. Demographic growth picked up again in the 1990s and 2000s, but by the 2010s Alsace entered a new period of slow demographic growth.
(Number of communes in parentheses)
* ] (111)
* ] (62)
* ] (47)
* ] (73)
* ] (32)
* ] (52)
|}


{{Historical populations
==Economy==
| title= Historical population of Alsace<br>(within the borders set in 1871)
According to the ''Institut National de la Statistique et des Études Économiques'' (]), Alsace had a gross domestic product of 44.3&nbsp;billion euros in 2002. With a GDP per capita of €24,804, it was the second-place ''région'' of France, losing only to ]. 68% of its jobs are in the ]; 25% are in industry, making Alsace one of France's most industrialised ''régions''.
| percentages = pagr

| align = none
Alsace is a ''région'' of varied economic activity, including:
| cols = 2
* ] (mostly along the '']'' between ] and ])
| graph-pos = bottom
* ] harvesting and brewing (half of French beer is produced in Alsace, especially in the vicinity of Strasbourg, notably in ], ] and ])
| footnote = Sources: French and German censuses (1806-1871),<ref>{{cite web |url=http://cassini.ehess.fr/fr/html/ |title=Des villages de Cassini aux communes d'aujourd'hui|author=] |access-date=2023-02-10}}</ref> (1876–2021),<ref>{{cite web |url=https://statistiques-locales.insee.fr/#c=indicator&i=pop_depuis_1876.pop&s=2019&t=A01&view=map2 |title=Statistiques locales - Population municipale (historique depuis 1876)|author=INSEE |author-link=INSEE |access-date=2023-02-10}}</ref><ref name=pop />
* forestry development
|1806 | 751008
* automobile industry (])
|1821 | 843973
* ]s, as part of the trinational ] and
|1831 | 933828
* tourism
|1836.29 | 976478
* ] (until the late 20th century) and ] mining
|1841.29 | 989477

|1846.37 | 1031360
Alsace has many international ties and 35% of firms are foreign companies (notably German, Swiss, American, Japanese, and ]n).
|1851.37 | 1043859
|1856.13 | 1028446
|1861.2 | 1057647
|1866.2 | 1082193
|1871.9178 | 1059240
|1875.9178 | 1051554
|1880.9179 | 1073954
|1885.918 | 1074626
|1890.9181 | 1093114
|1895.9182 | 1116086
|1900.9183 | 1154641
|1905.9184 | 1198774
|1910.9185 | 1218544
|1921.180822 | 1120629
|1926.180822 | 1161639
|1931.180822 | 1204968
|1936.180822 | 1219381
|1946.180822 | 1144986
|1954.356164 | 1217581
|1962.180822 | 1318070
|1968.180822 | 1412385
|1975.139726 | 1517330
|1982.180822 | 1566048
|1990.180822 | 1624372
|1999.180822 | 1734145
|2009 | 1843053
|2015 | 1879265
|2021 | 1919745
}}


==Demographics== ====Immigration====
At the 2018 census, 69.9% of the inhabitants of Alsace were natives of Alsace, 16.0% were born in the rest of ], 0.5% were born in ], and 13.7% were born in foreign countries.<ref name=immig_1>{{cite web|url=https://www.insee.fr/fr/statistiques/6023301?sommaire=2414232 |title=Données harmonisées des recensements de la population 1968–2018 |author=] |access-date=2022-02-11|language=fr}}</ref> Nearly 44% of the immigrants come from Europe, in particular from Germany (natives of Germany residing in Alsace where housing is cheaper), Italy, Portugal and Serbia.<ref name=immig_67>{{cite web|url=https://www.insee.fr/fr/statistiques/5397751?sommaire=5397790&geo=DEP-67 |title=IMG1B - Population immigrée par sexe, âge et pays de naissance en 2018 - Département du Bas-Rhin (67)|author=]|access-date=2013-02-10|language=fr}}</ref><ref name=immig_68>{{cite web|url=https://www.insee.fr/fr/statistiques/5397751?sommaire=5397790&geo=DEP-68 |title=IMG1B - Population immigrée par sexe, âge et pays de naissance en 2018 - Département du Haut-Rhin (68)|author=]|access-date=2013-02-10|language=fr}}</ref> Since 2008, the number of Turkish immigrants living in Alsace has declined, whereas the number of Maghreban immigrants has risen less than the number of European immigrants.<ref name=immg_2008>{{cite web|url=https://www.insee.fr/fr/statistiques/2020046?sommaire=2133781&geo=REG-42 |title=IMG1B - Population immigrée par sexe, âge et pays de naissance en 2008|author=]|access-date=2013-02-10|language=fr}}</ref><ref name=immig_67 /><ref name=immig_68 /> The fastest growing groups of immigrants are those from Asia and from sub-Saharan Africa.<ref name=immg_2008 /><ref name=immig_67 /><ref name=immig_68 />
Alsace's population increased to 1,836,000 in 2008. It has regularly increased over time, except in wartime, by both natural growth and ]. This growth has even accelerated at the end of the 20th century. ] estimates that its population will grow 12.9% to 19.5% between 1999 and 2030.


With a density of 222/km², Alsace is the third most densely populated ''région'' in ].

===Immigration===
{| width="720px" rules="all" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" style="border: 2px solid #999" {| width="720px" rules="all" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" style="border: 2px solid #999"
|+ style="font-weight: bold; font-size: 1.1em; margin-bottom: 0.5em"| Place of birth of residents of Alsace<br><small>(at the 1968, 1975, 1982, 1990, 1999, and 2009 censuses)</small> |+ style="font-weight: bold; font-size: 1.1em; margin-bottom: 0.5em"| Place of birth of residents of Alsace<br /><small>(at the 1968, 1975, 1982, 1990, 1999, 2008, 2013, and 2018 censuses)</small>
| align=center| '''Census''' ||align=center| '''Born&nbsp;in&nbsp;Alsace''' || align=center | '''Born in&nbsp;the&nbsp;rest&nbsp;of<br>]''' || align=center | '''Born&nbsp;in<br>]''' || align=center | '''Born&nbsp;in&nbsp;foreign<br>countries&nbsp;with&nbsp;French<br>citizenship&nbsp;at&nbsp;birth¹''' || align=center colspan=4| '''Immigrants²''' | align=center| '''Census''' ||align=center| '''{{nowrap|Born in Alsace}}''' || align=center | '''{{nowrap|Born in the rest of}}<br />{{nowrap|]}}''' || align=center | '''{{nowrap|Born in}}<br />{{nowrap|]}}''' || align=center | '''{{nowrap|Born in foreign}}<br />{{nowrap|countries with French}}<br />{{nowrap|citizenship at birth}}'''{{ref|note1|}}|| align=center colspan=4| '''Immigrants'''{{ref|note2|}}
|- |-
| align=center rowspan=3| 2009 || align=center rowspan=3| 71.7% || align=center rowspan=3| 15.3% || align=center rowspan=3| 0.4% || align=center rowspan=3| 2.2% || align=center colspan=4| 10.4% | align=center rowspan=3| 2018 || align=center rowspan=3| 69.9% || align=center rowspan=3| 16.0% || align=center rowspan=3| 0.5% || align=center rowspan=3| 2.2% || align=center colspan=4| 11.6%
|- |-
| align=center | '''<small>from&nbsp;Europe</small>''' || align=center | '''<small>from&nbsp;the&nbsp;Maghreb<sup>3</sup></small>''' || align=center | '''<small>from&nbsp;Turkey</small>''' || align=center | '''<small>from&nbsp;the&nbsp;rest&nbsp;of&nbsp;the&nbsp;world</small>''' | align=center | '''<small>{{nowrap|from Europe}}</small>''' || align=center | <small>'''{{nowrap|from the Maghreb}}'''{{ref|note3|}}</small> || align=center | '''<small>{{nowrap|from Turkey}}</small>''' || align=center | '''<small>{{nowrap|from the rest of the world}}</small>'''
|- |-
| align=center | <small>4.6%</small> || align=center | <small>2.4%</small> || align=center | <small>1.6%</small> || align=center | <small>1.8%</small> | align=center | <small>5.1%</small> || align=center | <small>2.6%</small> || align=center | <small>1.5%</small> || align=center | <small>2.4%</small>
|-
| align=center rowspan=3| 2013 || align=center rowspan=3| 71.1% || align=center rowspan=3| 15.4% || align=center rowspan=3| 0.4% || align=center rowspan=3| 2.3% || align=center colspan=4| 10.8%
|-
| align=center | '''<small>{{nowrap|from Europe}}</small>''' || align=center | <small>'''{{nowrap|from the Maghreb}}'''{{ref|note3|}}</small> || align=center | '''<small>{{nowrap|from Turkey}}</small>''' || align=center | '''<small>{{nowrap|from the rest of the world}}</small>'''
|-
| align=center | <small>4.8%</small> || align=center | <small>2.5%</small> || align=center | <small>1.6%</small> || align=center | <small>2.0%</small>
|-
| align=center rowspan=3| 2008 || align=center rowspan=3| 71.8% || align=center rowspan=3| 15.3% || align=center rowspan=3| 0.4% || align=center rowspan=3| 2.3% || align=center colspan=4| 10.3%
|-
| align=center | '''<small>{{nowrap|from Europe}}</small>''' || align=center | <small>'''{{nowrap|from the Maghreb}}'''{{ref|note3|}}</small> || align=center | '''<small>{{nowrap|from Turkey}}</small>''' || align=center | '''<small>{{nowrap|from the rest of the world}}</small>'''
|-
| align=center | <small>4.5%</small> || align=center | <small>2.4%</small> || align=center | <small>1.6%</small> || align=center | <small>1.8%</small>
|- |-
| align=center rowspan=3| 1999 || align=center rowspan=3| 73.6% || align=center rowspan=3| 15.4% || align=center rowspan=3| 0.4% || align=center rowspan=3| 2.1% || align=center colspan=4| 8.5% | align=center rowspan=3| 1999 || align=center rowspan=3| 73.6% || align=center rowspan=3| 15.4% || align=center rowspan=3| 0.4% || align=center rowspan=3| 2.1% || align=center colspan=4| 8.5%
|- |-
| align=center | '''<small>from&nbsp;Europe</small>''' || align=center | '''<small>from&nbsp;the&nbsp;Maghreb<sup>3</sup></small>''' || align=center | '''<small>from&nbsp;Turkey</small>''' || align=center | '''<small>from&nbsp;the&nbsp;rest&nbsp;of&nbsp;the&nbsp;world</small>''' | align=center | '''<small>{{nowrap|from Europe}}</small>''' || align=center | <small>'''{{nowrap|from the Maghreb}}'''{{ref|note3|}}</small> || align=center | '''<small>{{nowrap|from Turkey}}</small>''' || align=center | '''<small>{{nowrap|from the rest of the world}}</small>'''
|- |-
| align=center | <small>4.2%</small> || align=center | <small>1.9%</small> || align=center | <small>1.3%</small> || align=center | <small>1.1%</small> | align=center | <small>4.2%</small> || align=center | <small>1.9%</small> || align=center | <small>1.3%</small> || align=center | <small>1.1%</small>
Line 288: Line 341:
| align=center| 1975 || align=center | 78.3% || align=center | 11.6% || align=center | 0.2% || align=center | 2.6% || align=center colspan=4| 7.3% | align=center| 1975 || align=center | 78.3% || align=center | 11.6% || align=center | 0.2% || align=center | 2.6% || align=center colspan=4| 7.3%
|- |-
| align=center| 1968 || align=center | 81.7% || align=center | 9.8% || align=center | 0.1% || align=center | 2.8% || align=center colspan=4| 5.6% | align=center| 1968 || align=center | 81.7% || align=center | 9.8% || align=center | 0.1% || align=center | 2.8% || align=center colspan=4| 5.6%
|- |-
| align=left colspan=10| ¹<small>Persons born abroad of French parents, such as ] and children of French expatriates.</small><br>²<small>An immigrant is by French definition a person born in a foreign country and who didn't have French citizenship at birth. Note that an immigrant may have acquired French citizenship since moving to France, but is still listed as an immigrant in French statistics. On the other hand, persons born in France with foreign citizenship (the children of immigrants) are not listed as immigrants.</small><br><small><sup>3</sup>], ], ]</small> | align=left colspan=10| <small>{{note|note1|a}}Persons born abroad of French parents, such as ] and children of French expatriates.</small><br /><small>{{note|note2|b}}An immigrant is by French definition a person born in a foreign country and who did not have French citizenship at birth. Note that an immigrant may have acquired French citizenship since moving to France, but is still listed as an immigrant in French statistics. On the other hand, persons born in France with foreign citizenship (the children of immigrants) are not listed as immigrants.</small><br /><small>{{note|note3|c}}], ], ]</small>
|- |-
| align=center colspan=10| Source: INSEE<ref>{{Fr icon}} {{cite web|url=http://www.insee.fr/fr/themes/detail.asp?reg_id=0&ref_id=fd-rp19682009&page=fichiers_detail/RP19682009/telechargement.htm|title=Fichier Données harmonisées des recensements de la population de 1968 à 2009|author=]|accessdate=2013-06-26}}</ref><ref>{{Fr icon}} {{cite web|url=http://www.recensement.insee.fr/tableauxDetailles.action?zoneSearchField=ALSACE&codeZone=42-REG&idTheme=9&idTableauDetaille=25&niveauDetail=1|title=IMG1B – Les immigrés par sexe, âge et pays de naissance|author=]|accessdate=2013-06-26}}</ref><ref>{{Fr icon}} {{cite web|url=http://www.recensement-1999.insee.fr/default.asp?asp_action=produit&c_typeprod=BDD&c_prod=D_FD_IMG2&c_theme=IMG&c_codgeo=2&c_nivgeo=F|title=D_FD_IMG2 – Base France par départements – Lieux de naissance à l'étranger selon la nationalité|author=]|accessdate=2013-06-26}}</ref> | align=center colspan=10| Source: INSEE<ref name=immig_1 /><ref name=immig_67 /><ref name=immig_68 /><ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.insee.fr/fr/statistiques/2020942?sommaire=2106113&geo=REG-42 |title=IMG1B - Population immigrée par sexe, âge et pays de naissance en 2013 - Région d'Alsace (42)|author=]|access-date=2013-02-10|language=fr}}</ref><ref name=immg_2008 /><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.recensement-1999.insee.fr/default.asp?asp_action=produit&c_typeprod=BDD&c_prod=D_FD_IMG2&c_theme=IMG&c_codgeo=2&c_nivgeo=F|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131012011111/http://www.recensement-1999.insee.fr/default.asp?asp_action=produit&c_typeprod=BDD&c_prod=D_FD_IMG2&c_theme=IMG&c_codgeo=2&c_nivgeo=F|url-status=dead|archive-date=12 October 2013|title=D_FD_IMG2 – Base France par départements – Lieux de naissance à l'étranger selon la nationalité|author=]|access-date=26 June 2013|language=fr}}</ref>
|} |}


==Transportation== ===Religion===
{{bar box
|title=Religion in Alsace<ref> Géographie réligieuse: France</ref>
|titlebar=
|left1=religion
|right1=percent
|float=left
|bars=
{{bar percent|]|DodgerBlue|70}}
{{bar percent|]|DarkViolet|17}}
{{bar percent|]|black|8}}
{{bar percent|Other faith|green|5}}
}}
]'' (architect ]), the main ] church of ]]]
Alsace is generally seen as the most religious of all the French regions. Most of the Alsatian population is ], but, largely because of the region's ] heritage, a significant ] community also exists: today, the ] (a Lutheran church) is France's second largest Protestant church, also forming an administrative union (]) with the much smaller Calvinist ]. Unlike the rest of France, the ] still provides for the ]ic ] and the ], which provides public subsidies to the Roman Catholic, ], and ] churches, as well as to Jewish synagogues; religion classes in one of these faiths are compulsory in public schools. The divergence in policy from the French majority is because the region was part of ] when the ] (for a more comprehensive history, see ]). Controversy erupts periodically on the appropriateness of that legal disposition, as well as on the exclusion of other religions from the arrangement.


Following the ], promoted by the local reformer ], the principle of '']'' led to a certain amount of religious diversity in the highlands of northern Alsace. Landowners, who as "local lords" had the right to decide the religion that was allowed on their land, were eager to entice populations from the more attractive lowlands to settle and develop their property. Many accepted without discrimination Catholics, Lutherans, Calvinists, Jews and ]. ] villages appeared, particularly in the region of ]. Alsace became one of the French regions boasting a thriving ] and the only region with a noticeable Anabaptist population. ] who founded ] was born in Alsace. The schism of the ] under the lead of ] from the ]s occurred in 1693 in ]. The strongly Catholic ] tried in vain to drive them from Alsace. When ] imposed military conscription without religious exception, most emigrated to the American continent.
===Roads===
]]]


In 1707, the ] forced many Reformed and Lutheran church buildings to also allow Catholic services. About 50 such "simultaneous churches" still exist in modern Alsace, but with the Catholic church's general lack of priests, they tend to hold Catholic services only occasionally.
Most major car journeys are made on the ] ], which links Saint-Louis on the Swiss border to Lauterbourg on the German border.


==Culture==
The ] toll road (towards Paris) begins 20&nbsp;km northwest of ] and the ] toll road towards Lyon, begins 10&nbsp;km west from ].
Alsace historically was part of the Holy Roman Empire and the German realm of culture. Since the 17th century, the region has passed between German and French control numerous times, resulting in a cultural blend. German traits remain in the more traditional, rural parts of the culture, such as the ] and architecture, whereas modern institutions are totally dominated by French culture.


===Symbolism===
Spaghetti-junctions (built in the 1970s and 1980s) are prominent in the comprehensive system of motorways in Alsace, especially in the outlying areas of Strasbourg and Mulhouse. These cause a major buildup of traffic and are the main sources of pollution in the towns, notably in Strasbourg where the motorway traffic of the A35 was 170,000 per day in 2002.
] of Alsace]]


====Strasbourg====
At present, plans are being considered for building a new ] west of Strasbourg, which would reduce the buildup of traffic in that area by picking up north- and southbound vehicles and getting rid of the buildup outside of Strasbourg. The line plans to link up the interchange of ] to the north of Strasbourg, with ] in the southwest. The opening is envisaged at the end of 2011, with an average usage of 41,000 vehicles a day. Estimates of the French Works Commissioner however, raised some doubts over the interest of such a project, since it would pick up only about 10% of the traffic of the A35 at Strasbourg. Paradoxically, this reversed the situation of the 1950s. At that time, the French trunk road left of the Rhine not been built, so that traffic would cross into Germany to use the Karlsruhe-Basel Autobahn.
]]]
]'s arms are the colours of the shield of the ] (a band of red on a white field, also considered an inversion of the arms of the diocese) at the end of a revolt of the burghers during the Middle Ages who took their independence from the teachings of the Bishop. It retains its power over the surrounding area.


====Flags====
To add to the buildup of traffic, the neighbouring German state of ] has imposed a tax on heavy-goods vehicles using their ]en. Thus, a part of the HGVs travelling from north Germany to Switzerland or southern Alsace bypasses the ] on the Alsace-Baden-Württemberg border and uses the untolled, French ] instead.
{{Main|Flag of Alsace}}
]
]


There is controversy around the recognition of the Alsatian flag. The authentic historical flag is the ''Rot-un-Wiss''; Red and White are commonly found on the coat of arms of Alsatian cities (Strasbourg, Mulhouse, Sélestat...)<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.unserland.org/dossiers/breve-histoire-dun-drapeau-alsacien/|title=Unser LandBrève histoire d'un drapeau alsacien|work=Unser Land|access-date=29 December 2014|archive-date=27 January 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150127040459/http://www.unserland.org/dossiers/breve-histoire-dun-drapeau-alsacien/|url-status=dead}}</ref> and of many Swiss cities, especially in ]. The German region ] uses a flag similar to the Rot-un-Wiss. As it underlines the Germanic roots of the region, it was ''replaced'' in 1949 by a new "Union jack-like" flag representing the union of the two départements. It has, however, no real historical relevance. It has been since replaced again by a slightly different one, also representing the two départements. With the purpose of "Francizing" the region, the Rot-un-Wiss has not been recognized by Paris. Some overzealous statesmen have called it a Nazi invention – while its origins date back to the 11th century and the Red and White banner<ref>{{cite web| url = http://www.genealogie-bisval.net/Images/Lorraine.gif| title = Genealogie-bisval.net}}</ref> of ] (aka. d'Alsace). The Rot-un-Wiss flag is still known as the real historical emblem of the region by most of the population and the départements' parliaments and has been widely used during protests against the creation of a new "super-region" gathering ], ] and Alsace, namely on Colmar's statue of liberty.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://france3-regions.francetvinfo.fr/alsace/2014/11/16/colmar-une-statu-de-la-liberte-en-rot-und-wiss-593102.html|title=Colmar : une statue de la Liberté en "Rot und Wiss" |work=France 3 Alsace|date=16 November 2014 }}</ref>
The French ] allowed a tax on HGVs using the alsatian road network in 2005. It must be applicated since beginning 2008.


===Trains=== ===Language===
] in the 20th century]]
]
]]]
Although German dialects were spoken in Alsace for most of its history, the dominant language in Alsace today is French.


The traditional language of the ''région'' is ], an ] dialect of ] spoken on both sides of the Rhine and closely related to ]. Some ] dialects of ] are also spoken in "Alsace Bossue" and in the extreme north of Alsace. ] for ]s in France, neither Alsatian nor the Frankish dialects have any form of official status, although both are now recognized as ] and can be chosen as subjects in ].
] is the rail network serving Alsace. Its network is articulated around the city of Strasbourg. It is one of the most developed rail networks in France, financially sustained partly by the French railroad ], and partly by the ''région'' Alsace.


Although Alsace has been part of France multiple times in the past, the region had no direct connection with the French state for several centuries. From the end of the Roman Empire (5th century) to the French annexation (17th century), Alsace was politically part of the German world.
Because the Vosges are surmountable only by the ] and the ] Gap, it has been suggested that Alsace needs to open up and get closer to France in terms of its rail links.


During the ], the towns of Alsace were the first to adopt the German language as their official language instead of ]. It was in Strasbourg that German was first used for the liturgy. It was also in Strasbourg that the first German Bible was published in 1466.
The ] (Paris – Strasbourg) had its first phase brought into service in June 2007, bringing down the Strasbourg-Paris trip from 4h to 2h20. Work on its second phase in 2010, which
will further bring down this time to 1h50 started in 2010. Further plans include:
* the ] or a ]-Mulhouse line (to start in construction in 2006, with anticipated completion in 2011)
* an interconnection with the German ], as far as ] and/or ]
* a tram-train system in Mulhouse (May 2006), then Strasbourg (2011)


From the annexation of Alsace by France in the 17th century and the language policy of the French Revolution up to 1870, knowledge of French in Alsace increased considerably. With the education reforms of the 19th century, the middle classes began to speak and write French well. The French language never really managed, however, to win over the masses, the vast majority of whom continued to speak their German dialects and write in German (which we would now call "standard German").{{Citation needed|reason=reliable source needed for the whole sentence|date=March 2014}}
However, the abandoned Maurice-Lemaire tunnel towards ] was rebuilt as a toll road.


Between 1870 and 1918, Alsace was annexed by the German Empire in the form of an imperial province or Reichsland, and the mandatory official language, especially in schools, became High German. French lost ground to such an extent that it has been estimated that only 2% of the population spoke French fluently, and only 8% had some knowledge of it (Maugue, 1970).
===Rivers===
Port traffic of Alsace exceeds 15&nbsp;million tonnes, of which about three-quarters is centred on Strasbourg, which is the second busiest French fluvial harbour. The enlargement plan of the Rhine-Rhône channel, intended to link up the ] and Central Europe (Rhine, ], ] and ]) was abandoned in 1998 for reasons of expense and land erosion, notably in the Doubs valley.


After 1918, French was the only language used in schools, particularly primary schools. After much argument and discussion and after many temporary measures, a memorandum was issued by Vice-Chancellor Pfister in 1927 and governed education in primary schools until 1939.
===Air traffic===
There are two ]s in Alsace:
* the international airport of Strasbourg in ]
* the international ], which is the seventh largest French airport in terms of traffic


During a reannexation by Germany (1940–1945), High German was reinstated as the language of education. The population was forced to speak German and 'French' family names were Germanized. Following the Second World War, the 1927 regulation was not reinstated, and the teaching of German in primary schools was suspended by a provisional rectorial decree, which was supposed to enable French to regain lost ground. The teaching of German became a major issue, however, as early as 1946. After World War II, the French government pursued, in line with its traditional ], a campaign to suppress the use of German as part of a wider ] campaign. The local ] was rendered a backward regional "Germanic" dialect not being attached to German.<ref>{{cite book|first=Peter|last=von Polenz|year=1999|title= Deutsche Sprachgeschichte vom Spätmittelalter bis zur Gegenwart|volume= Band III: 19. und 20. Jahrhundert|place= Berlin/New York.|pages=165}}</ref>
Strasbourg is also two hours away by road from one of the largest European airports, Frankfurt Main, and 2h30m of ] through the direct ] service stopping in Terminal 2.


In 1951, Article 10 of the ] (''Loi Deixonne'') on the teaching of local languages and dialects made provision for ], ], ] and old ] but not for ], ] (]) or Alsatian in Alsace and ]. However, in a Decree of 18 December 1952, supplemented by an Order of 19 December of the same year, optional teaching of the German language was introduced in elementary schools in communes in which the language of habitual use was the Alsatian dialect.
===Cycling network===
Crossed by three ] routes
* the EuroVelo 5 (] from London to Rome/]),
* the EuroVelo 6 (Véloroute des fleuves from ] to ] (H)) and
* the EuroVelo 15 (Véloroute Rhin / Rhine cycle route from ] (CH) to ] (NL)).
Alsace is the most well equipped region of France with 2 000 kilometers cycle routes. The network is of a very good standard and well signposted. All the tow pathes of the canals in Alsace (], ], ], ]) are tarred.


In 1972, the Inspector General of German, Georges Holderith, obtained authorization to reintroduce German into 33 intermediate classes on an experimental basis. This teaching of German, referred to as the Holderith Reform, was later extended to all pupils in the last two years of elementary school. This reform is still largely the basis of German teaching (but not Alsatian) in elementary schools today.
==Religion==
]'' (architect : ]), the main ] church of ].]]
Most of the Alsatian population is Roman Catholic, but, largely because of the region's ] heritage, a significant ] community also exists: today, the ] (a Lutheran church) is France's second largest Protestant church, also forming an administrative union (]) with the much smaller Calvinist ]. Unlike the rest of France, the ] still provides for to the ]ic ] and the ], which provides public subsidies to the Roman Catholic, ], and ] churches, as well as to Jewish synagogues; public education in these faiths is offered. This divergence in policy from the French majority is due to the region having been part of ] when the ] (for a more comprehensive history, see: ]). Controversy erupts periodically on the appropriateness of this legal disposition, as well as on the exclusion of other religions from this arrangement.


It was not until 9 June 1982, with the ''Circulaire sur la langue et la culture régionales en Alsace'' (Memorandum on regional language and culture in Alsace) issued by the Vice-Chancellor of the Académie Pierre Deyon, that the teaching of German in primary schools in Alsace really began to be given more official status. The Ministerial Memorandum of 21 June 1982, known as the Circulaire Savary, introduced financial support, over three years, for the teaching of regional languages in schools and universities. This memorandum was, however, implemented in a fairly lax manner.
Following the ], promoted by local reformer ], the principle of '']'' led to a certain amount of religious diversity in the highlands of northern Alsace. Landowners, who as "local lords" had the right to decide which religion was allowed on their land, were eager to entice populations from the more attractive lowlands to settle and develop their property. Many accepted without discrimination Catholics, Lutherans, Calvinists, Jews and ]s. ] villages appeared, particularly in the region of ''Alsace bossue''. Alsace became one of the French regions boasting a thriving Jewish community, and the only region with a noticeable Anabaptist population. The schism of the ] under the lead of ] from the ]s occurred in 1693 in ]. The strongly Catholic ] tried in vain to drive them from Alsace. When ] imposed military conscription without religious exception, most emigrated to the American continent.


Both Alsatian and Standard German were for a time banned from public life (including street and city names, official administration, and educational system). Though the ban has long been lifted and street signs today are often bilingual, Alsace–Lorraine is today predominantly French in language and culture. Few young people speak Alsatian today, although there do still exist one or two enclaves in the ] region where some older inhabitants cannot speak French, and where Alsatian is still used as the mother tongue. A related ] survives on the opposite bank of the Rhine, in ], and especially in Switzerland. However, while French is the major language of the region, the Alsatian dialect of French is heavily influenced by German and other languages such as Yiddish in phonology and vocabulary.
In 1707, the ] was established, by which many Reformed and Lutheran church buildings were forced to allow Catholic services. About 50 such "simultaneous churches" still exist in modern Alsace, though they tend to hold Catholic services only occasionally.


This situation has spurred a movement to preserve the Alsatian language, which is perceived as endangered, a situation paralleled in other ''régions'' of France, such as ] or ]. Alsatian is now taught in French high schools. Increasingly, French is the only language used at home and at work, and a growing number of people have a good knowledge of ] as a foreign language learned in school.
==Culture==
] in the 20th century]]
Alsace historically was part of the Holy Roman Empire and the German realm of culture. Since the 17th century, the region has passed between German and French control numerous times, resulting in a cultural blend. Germanic traits remain in the more traditional, rural parts of the culture, such as the ] and architecture, whereas modern institutions are totally dominated by French culture.


The constitution of the Fifth Republic states that French alone is the official language of the Republic. However, Alsatian, along with other regional languages, are recognized by the French government in the official list of languages of France.
===Language===
Although German dialects were spoken in Alsace for most of its history, the dominant language in Alsace today is French.


Although the French government signed the ] in 1992, it never ratified the treaty and therefore no legal basis exists for any of the regional languages in France.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.lefigaro.fr/vox/societe/2015/06/05/31003-20150605ARTFIG00157-charte-europeenne-des-langues-regionales-hollande-nourrit-la-guerre-contre-le-francais.php|title=Charte européenne des langues régionales : Hollande nourrit la guerre contre le français|work=Le Figaro|date=5 June 2015}}</ref> However, visitors to Alsace can see indications of renewed political and cultural interest in the language – in Alsatian signs appearing in car-windows and on hoardings, and in new official bilingual street signs in Strasbourg and Mulhouse.
The traditional language of the ''région'' is ], an ] dialect of ] and thus closely related to ]. Some ] dialects of ] are also spoken in the extreme north of Alsace. Neither Alsatian nor the Frankish dialects have any form of official status, ] for ]s in France, although both are now recognized as ] and can be chosen as subjects in ].


A 1999 INSEE survey, included in the 1999 Census, the majority of the population in Alsace speak ] as their first language, 39.0% (or 500,000 people) of the population speak ], 16.2% (or 208,000 people) speak ], 75,200 people speak ] (or 5.9%) and 27,600 people speak ].<ref>{{Cite book|title=www.epsilon.insee.fr/jspui/bitstream/1/2294/1/cpar12_1.pdf, L'alsacien, deuxième langue régionale de France|publisher=INSEE|date=December 2002|pages=3}}</ref>
Although Alsace has been annexed by France several times in the past, the region had no direct connection with the French State for several centuries. From the end of the Roman Empire (5th century) to the French annexation (17th century), Alsace was politically part of the Germanic world.


The survey counted 548,000 adult speakers of Alsatian in France, making it the second most-spoken regional language in the country (after ]). Like all regional languages in France, however, the transmission of Alsatian is on the decline. While 39% of the adult population of Alsace speak Alsatian, only one in four children speak it, and only one in ten children uses it regularly.
The towns of Alsace were the first to adopt German language as their official language, instead of ], during the ]. It was in Strasbourg that German was first used for the Liturgy. It was also in Strasbourg that the first German Bible was published in 1466.


=== Architecture ===
From the annexation of Alsace by France in the 17th century and the language policy of the French Revolution up to 1870, knowledge of French in Alsace increased considerably. With the education reforms of the 19th century, the middle classes began to speak and write French well. The French language never really managed, however, to win over the masses, the vast majority of whom continued to speak their German dialects and write in German (which we would now call "standard German").
]'s old town]]
The traditional habitat of the Alsatian lowland, like in other regions of Germany and Northern Europe, consists of houses constructed with walls in ] and cob and roofing in flat tiles. This type of construction is abundant in adjacent parts of Germany and can be seen in other areas of France, but their particular abundance in Alsace is owed to several reasons:
# The proximity to the ] where the wood can be found.
# During periods of war and bubonic plague, villages were often burned down, so to prevent the collapse of the upper floors, ground floors were built of stone and upper floors built in half-timberings to prevent the spread of fire.
# During most of its history, a great part of Alsace was flooded by the Rhine every year. Half-timbered houses were easy to knock down and to move around during those times (a day was necessary to move it and a day to rebuild it in another place).


However, half-timbering was found to increase the risk of fire, which is why from the 19th century, it began to be rendered. In recent times, villagers started to paint the rendering white in accordance with Beaux-Arts movements. To discourage this, the region's authorities gave financial grants to the inhabitants to paint the rendering in various colours, in order to return to the original style and many inhabitants accepted (more for financial reasons than by firm belief).{{Citation needed|date=February 2011}}
Between 1870 and 1918, Alsace was annexed by the German Empire in the form of an imperial province or Reichsland, and the mandatory official language, especially in schools, once again became High German. French lost ground to such an extent that it has been estimated that only 2% of the population spoke French fluently and only 8% had some knowledge of it (Maugue, 1970).


=== Cuisine ===
After 1918, French was the only language used in schools, and particularly primary schools. After much argument and discussion and after many temporary measures, a memorandum was issued by Vice-Chancellor Pfister in 1927 and governed education in primary schools until 1939.
]'']]
], somewhat based on German culinary traditions, is marked by the use of pork in various forms. It is perhaps mostly known for the region's wines and beers. Traditional dishes include '']'', '']'', '']'', and '']''. Southern Alsace, also called the ], is characterized by '']'' (that also exists in ] tradition).


==== Food ====
During a reannexation by Germany (1940–1945), High German was reinstated as the language of education. Population was forced to speak German, and alsatian was strictly forbidden. 'French' family names were Germanized. Following the Second World War, the 1927 regulation was not reinstated and the teaching of German in primary schools was suspended by a provisional rectorial decree, which was supposed to enable French to regain lost ground. The teaching of German became a major issue, however, as early as 1946. Following World War II, the French government pursued, in line with its traditional ], a campaign to suppress the use of German as part of a wider a ] campaign.
]]]
The festivities of the year's end involve the production of a great variety of biscuits and small cakes called '']'' as well as {{lang|fr|]}} (] cakes) which are baked around Christmas time. The ] is also popular in Alsace, and the ] during the Christmas season.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Les Christstollen de la vallée de Munster|year=2009|url=http://sitemap.dna.fr/articles/200912/21/les-christstollen-de-la-vallee-de-munster,region,000011851.php}}</ref>


A gastronomic symbol of the {{lang|fr|région}} is the ], a local variety of ]. The word Sauerkraut in Alsatian has the form {{lang|gsw|sûrkrût}}, same as in other southwestern German dialects, and means "sour cabbage" as its ] equivalent. This word was included into the French language as {{lang|fr|choucroute}}. To make it, the cabbage is finely shredded, layered with salt and ] and left to ferment in wooden barrels. Sauerkraut can be served with poultry, pork, sausage or even fish. Traditionally it is served with Strasbourg sausage or frankfurters, bacon, smoked pork or smoked ] or ] sausages, or a selection of other pork products. Served alongside are often roasted or steamed potatoes or dumplings.
In 1951, Article 10 of the ] (''Loi Deixonne'') on the teaching of local languages and dialects made provision for ], ], ] and old ], but not for ], ] (]) or Alsatian in Alsace and ]. However, in a Decree of 18 December 1952, supplemented by an Order of 19 December of the same year, optional teaching of the German language was introduced in elementary schools in Communes where the language of habitual use was the Alsatian dialect.


Alsace is also well known for its ] made in the region since the 17th century. Additionally, Alsace is known for its fruit juices and mineral waters.
In 1972, the Inspector General of German, Georges Holderith, obtained authorization to reintroduce German into 33 intermediate classes, on an experimental basis. This teaching of German, referred to as the Holderith Reform, was later extended to all pupils in the last two years of elementary school. This reform is still largely the basis of German teaching (but not Alsatian) in elementary schools today.


==== Wines ====
It was not until 9 June 1982, with the ''Circulaire sur la langue et la culture régionales en Alsace'' (Memorandum on regional language and culture in Alsace) issued by the Vice-Chancellor of the Académie Pierre Deyon, that the teaching of German in primary schools in Alsace really began to be given more official status. The Ministerial Memorandum of 21 June 1982, known as the Circulaire Savary, introduced financial support, over three years, for the teaching of regional languages in schools and universities. This memorandum was, however, implemented in a fairly lax manner.
]
Alsace is an important ]. ''Vins d'Alsace'' (]s) are mostly white. Alsace produces some of the world's most noted dry ]s and is the only region in France to produce mostly ] wines identified by the names of the grapes used (wine from ] is also mainly varietal, but not normally identified as such), typically from grapes also used in Germany. The most notable example is ].


==== Beers ====
Both Alsatian and Standard German were for a time banned from public life (including street and city names, official administration, and educational system). Though the ban has long been lifted, Alsace-Lorraine is today very French in language and culture. Few young people speak Alsatian today, although there do still exist one or two enclaves in the ] region where some older inhabitants do not speak French, and where Alsatian is still used as the mother tongue. A related ] survives on the opposite bank of the Rhine, in ], and especially in Switzerland. However, while French is the major language of the region, the Alsatian dialect of French is heavily influenced by German and other languages such a Yiddish in phonology and vocabulary.
Alsace is also the main beer-producing region of France, thanks primarily to ] in and near ]. These include those of ], ], ], and ]. ] are grown in ] and in northern Alsace. ] is also traditionally made in Alsace, but it is in decline because home ] are becoming less common and the consumption of traditional, strong, alcoholic beverages is decreasing.


=== In tales ===
This situation has spurred a movement to preserve the Alsatian language, which is perceived as endangered, a situation paralleled in other ''régions'' of France, such as ] or ]. Alsatian is now taught in French high schools. Increasingly, French is the only language used at home and at work, whereas a growing number of people have a good knowledge of ] as a foreign language learned in school.
]


The ] is a main feature of Alsace and was the subject of many ]s told to children. The bird practically disappeared around 1970, but re-population efforts are continuing. They are mostly found on roofs of houses, churches and other public buildings in Alsace.
The constitution of the Fifth Republic states that French alone is the official language of the Republic. However Alsatian, along with other regional languages, are recognized by the French government in the official list of languages of France. A 1999 INSEE survey counted 548,000 adult speakers of Alsatian in France, making it the second most-spoken regional language in the country (after ]). Like all regional languages in France, however, the transmission of Alsatian is on the decline. While 39% of the adult population of Alsace speaks Alsatian, only one in four children speaks it, and only one in ten children uses it regularly.


The ] was first mentioned in ]'s ''De ovis paschalibus'' (About Easter eggs) in 1682 referring to an Alsace tradition of an Easter Hare bringing Easter eggs.
In 1992, the French government signed the ]. However visitors to Alsace can see indications of renewed political and cultural interest in the language – in Alsatian signs appearing in car-windows and on hoardings, and in new official bilingual street signs in Strasbourg and Mulhouse.


===Cuisine=== === The term "Alsatia" ===
{{Main|Alsatia}}
]
Alsatian ], somehow based on Germanic culinary traditions, is marked by the use of pork in various forms. Traditional dishes include '']'', '']'', '']'', and '']''. Southern Alsace, also called the ], is characterized by '']'' (that also exists in Yidish tradition).


"Alsatia", the Latin form of Alsace's name, entered the ] as "a lawless place" or "a place under no jurisdiction" prior to the 17th century as a reflection of the British perception of the region at that time. It was used into the 20th century as a term for a ramshackle marketplace, "protected by ancient custom and the independence of their patrons". The word is still in use in the 21st century among the English and Australian judiciaries to describe a place where the law cannot reach: "In setting up the ], the state has set out to create an Alsatia – a region of executive action free of judicial oversight," ] in UMBS v SOCA 2007.<ref>{{cite news|url=http://news.independent.co.uk/business/news/article2586539.ece|title=Law Lords slam crime agency for freezing UMBS payments|newspaper=The Independent|date=27 May 2007|access-date=2010-05-30|location=London|first=Paul|last=Lashmar|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071001051829/http://news.independent.co.uk/business/news/article2586539.ece|archive-date=1 October 2007}}</ref>
The festivities of the year's end involve the production of a great variety of biscuits and small cakes called ''bredala'' as well as '']'' (]) which are backed around Christmas time.
]


Derived from the above, "]" was historically a ] term for the area near ], which was for a long time a ]. It is first known in print in the title of '']'', a 1688 play written by ].
Alsace is an important ]. ''Vins d'Alsace'' (]s) are mostly white and display a strong Germanic influence. Alsace produces some of the world's most noted dry ]s and is the only ''région'' in France to produce mostly ] wines identified by the names of the grapes used (wine from ] is also mainly varietal, but not normally identified as such), typically from grapes also used in Germany. The most notable example is ].


== Economy ==
Alsace is also the main beer-producing ''région'' of France, thanks primarily to ] in and near ]. These include those of ], ], ], and ]. ] are grown in ] and in northern Alsace. ] is also traditionally made in Alsace, but it is in decline because home ] are becoming less common and the consumption of traditional, strong, alcoholic beverages is decreasing.
According to the ''Institut National de la Statistique et des Études Économiques'' (]), Alsace had a gross domestic product of 44.3&nbsp;billion euros in 2002. With a GDP per capita of €24,804, it is the second ''région'' of France, after only ], and 68% of Alsatian jobs are in the ], and 25% are in industry, which makes Alsace one of France's most industrialised ''régions''.


Alsace is a ''région'' of varied economic activity, including:
Alsatian food is synonymous with conviviality, the dishes are substantial and served in generous portions and it has one of the richest regional kitchens.
* ] (mostly along the '']'' between ] and ])
* ] harvesting and brewing (half of French beer is produced in Alsace, especially in the vicinity of Strasbourg, notably in ], ], ] and ])
* forestry development
* automobile industry (] and ], home town of ] Automobiles)
* ]s, as part of the trinational ]
* tourism
* ] (until the late 20th century) and ] mining


Alsace has many international ties and 35% of firms are foreign companies (notably German, Swiss, American, Japanese, and ]n).
The gastronomic symbol of the ''région'' is undoubtedly the ], a local variety of ]. The word Sauerkraut in Alsatian has the form ''sûrkrût'', same as in other southwestern German dialects, and means "sour cabbage" as its ] equivalent. This word was included into the French language as ''choucroute''. To make it, the cabbage is finely shredded, layered with salt and ] and left to ferment in wooden barrels. Sauerkraut can be served with poultry, pork, sausage or even fish. Traditionally it is served with pork, Strasbourg sausage or frankfurters, bacon, smoked pork or smoked ] or ] sausages or a selection of pork products. Served alongside are often roasted or steamed potatoes or dumplings.


===Tourism===
{{Commons category|Cuisine of Alsace}}
Having been early and always densely populated, Alsace is famous for its high number of picturesque villages, churches and castles and for the various beauties of its three main towns, in spite of severe destructions suffered throughout five centuries of wars between France and Germany.
Alsace is also well known for its ] made in the region since the 17th century. Additionally, Alsace is known for its fruit juices, mineral waters and wines.


Alsace is furthermore famous for its vineyards (especially along the 170&nbsp;km of the '']'' from ] to ]) and the ] with their thick and green forests and picturesque lakes.
===Architecture===
]'s old town]]
The traditional habitat of the Alsatian lowland, like in other regions of Germany and Northern Europe, consists of houses constructed with walls in ] and cob and roofing in flat tiles. This type of construction is abundant in adjacent parts of Germany and can be seen in other areas of France, but their particular abundance in Alsace is owed to several reasons:
# The proximity to the ] where the wood can be found.
# During periods of war and bubonic plague, villages were often burned down, so to prevent the collapse of the upper floors, ground floors were built of stone and upper floors built in half-timberings to prevent the spread of fire.
# During most of the part of its history, a great part of Alsace was flooded by the Rhine every year. Half-timbered houses were easy to knock down and to move around during those times (a day was necessary to move it and a day to rebuild it in another place).


]]]
However, half-timbering was found to increase the risk of fire, which is why from the 19th century, it began to be rendered. In recent times, villagers started to paint the rendering white in accordance with Beaux-Arts movements. To discourage this, the region's authorities gave financial grants to the inhabitants to paint the rendering in various colors, in order to return to the original style and many inhabitants accepted (more for financial reasons than by firm belief).{{Citation needed|date=February 2011}}
]
] from the ]]]
* Old towns of ], ], ], ], ], ], ]
* Smaller cities and villages: ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ] and the gardens of the blue house in ]<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.belocal.de/uttenhoffen/sights/jardins_de_la_ferme_bleue/seite_1,145814,2,145815.html |archive-url=https://archive.today/20120719035136/http://www.belocal.de/uttenhoffen/sights/jardins_de_la_ferme_bleue/seite_1,145814,2,145815.html |url-status=dead |archive-date=19 July 2012 |title=Jardins de la ferme bleue – SehenswĂźrdigkeiten in Uttenhoffen, Elsa |publisher=beLocal.de |date=23 November 2011 |access-date=30 March 2012 }}</ref>
* Churches (as main sights in otherwise less remarkable places): ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ] and the fortified church at ]
* ]
* ]: Ortenbourg and ] (above Sélestat), Hohlandsbourg, ], ] (above Saverne), Saint-Ulrich (above Ribeauvillé), Lichtenberg, Wangenbourg, the three Castles of ], ], Wasigenstein, ], Grand Geroldseck, ]
* ] museum in Mulhouse
* ] museum in Mulhouse
* The ] museum in Mulhouse
* ]'s "''écomusée''" (open-air museum) and "'']''" (leisure park about the environment, closed since September 2012)
* Musée historique in ], largest museum in Bas-Rhin outside Strasbourg
* Bibliothèque humaniste in Sélestat, one of the oldest public libraries in the world
* ]s in Kaysersberg, Strasbourg, Mulhouse and Colmar
* Departmental Centre of the History of Families (CDHF) in Guebwiller
* The ]: ]
* ]
* ] (Alsace Wine Route)
* Mémorial d'Alsace–Lorraine in ]
* ], the only German ] on French territory during WWII
* ]: Massif du Donon, ], Petit Ballon, ], ], ]
* ]: Parc naturel des Vosges du Nord
* ]: Parc naturel régional des Ballons des Vosges (south of the ])


===Transportation===
==Symbolism==
]


====Roads====
The ] is a main feature of Alsace and was the subject of many ]s told to children. The bird practically disappeared around 1970, but re-population efforts are continuing. They are mostly found on roofs of houses, churches and other public buildings in Alsace.
], ]]]


Most major car journeys are made on the ], which links Saint-Louis on the Swiss border to Lauterbourg on the German border.
The ] was first mentioned in ]'s ''De ovis paschalibus'' (About Easter Eggs) in 1682 referring to an Alsace tradition of an Easter Hare bringing Easter Eggs.


The ] toll road (towards Paris) begins {{Convert|20|km|mi|abbr=on}} northwest of ] and the ] toll road towards Lyon, begins {{Convert|10|km|mi|abbr=on}} west from ].
==Alsatians <includeonly>ONLY PEOPLE BORN IN ALSACE</includeonly>==

Spaghetti junctions (built in the 1970s and 1980s) are prominent in the comprehensive system of motorways in Alsace, especially in the outlying areas of Strasbourg and Mulhouse. These cause a major buildup of traffic and are the main sources of pollution in the towns, notably in Strasbourg where the motorway traffic of the A35 was 170,000 per day in 2002.

At present, plans are being considered for building a new ] west of Strasbourg, which would reduce the buildup of traffic in that area by picking up north and southbound vehicles and getting rid of the buildup outside Strasbourg. The line plans to link up the interchange of ] to the north of Strasbourg, with ] in the southwest. The opening is envisaged at the end of 2011, with an average usage of 41,000 vehicles a day. Estimates of the French Works Commissioner however, raised some doubts over the interest of such a project, since it would pick up only about 10% of the traffic of the A35 at Strasbourg. Paradoxically, this reversed the situation of the 1950s. At that time, the French trunk road left of the Rhine not been built, so that traffic would cross into Germany to use the Karlsruhe-Basel Autobahn.

To add to the buildup of traffic, the neighbouring German state of ] has imposed a tax on heavy-goods vehicles using their ]en. Thus, a proportion of the HGVs travelling from north Germany to Switzerland or southern Alsace bypasses the ] on the Alsace-Baden-Württemberg border and uses the untolled French ] instead.

====Trains====
]

] is the rail network serving Alsace. Its network is articulated around the city of Strasbourg. It is one of the most developed rail networks in France, financially sustained partly by the French railroad ], and partly by the ''région'' Alsace.

Because the Vosges are surmountable only by the ] and the ] Gap, it has been suggested that Alsace needs to open up and get closer to France in terms of its rail links. Developments already under way or planned include:
* the ] (Paris – Strasbourg) had its first phase brought into service in June 2007, bringing down the Strasbourg-Paris trip from 4 to 2 hours 20 minutes, and further reducing it to 1h 50m after the completion of the second phase in 2016.
* the ] between ] and Mulhouse (opened in 2011)
* a tram-train system in Mulhouse (2011)
* an interconnection with the German ], as far as ] (expected 2016)

However, the abandoned Maurice-Lemaire tunnel towards ] was rebuilt as a toll road.

====Waterways====
Port traffic of Alsace exceeds 15&nbsp;million tonnes, of which about three-quarters is centred on Strasbourg, which is the second busiest French fluvial harbour. The enlargement plan of the ], intended to link up the ] and Central Europe (Rhine, ], ] and ]) was abandoned in 1998 for reasons of expense and land erosion, notably in the Doubs valley.

====Air traffic====
There are two ]s in Alsace:
* the international airport of Strasbourg in ]
* the international ], which is the seventh largest French airport in terms of traffic

Strasbourg is also two hours away by road from one of the largest European airports, Frankfurt Main, and 2 hours 30 minutes from ] through the direct ] service, stopping in Terminal 2.

====Cycling network====
Crossed by three ] routes
* the EuroVelo 5 (] from London to Rome/]),
* the EuroVelo 6 (Véloroute des fleuves from ] to ] (H)) and
* the EuroVelo 15 (Véloroute Rhin / Rhine cycle route from ] (CH) to ] (NL)).
Alsace is the most bicycle-friendly region of France,{{Citation needed|date=November 2022}} with {{Convert|2000|km|mi}} of cycle routes. The network is of a very good standard and well signposted. All the towpaths of the canals in Alsace (], ], ], ]) are tarred.

==Notable people==
] by ] in front of the ], Colmar]] ] by ] in front of the ], Colmar]]
The following is a selection of people born in Alsace who have been particularly influential or successful in their respective fields.
{{See also|Category:People from Alsace|Alsatians (people)}}


===Arts===
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===Literature===
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==Major communities== ==Major communities==
German original names in brackets if French names are different German original names in brackets if French names differ:
<div style="float:left;width:33%;"> <div style="float:left;width:33%;">
* ] * ]
Line 517: Line 659:
* ] (Straßburg) * ] (Straßburg)
* ] * ]
</div>{{-}} </div>{{Clear}}


==Sister provinces== ==Sister regions==
There is an ''accord de coopération internationale'' between Alsace and the following regions:<ref>{{dead link|date=June 2012}} {{fr icon}}</ref> There is an ''accord de coopération internationale'' between Alsace and the following regions:<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.region-alsace.eu/dn_coopration-internationale1/accords-cooperation-international.html|title=Les Accords de coopération entre l'Alsace et...|language=fr|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110103121947/http://www.region-alsace.eu/dn_coopration-internationale1/accords-cooperation-international.html |archive-date=3 January 2011 }}</ref>
* ], ]
* ], South Korea
* ], ]
* ], Poland
* ], Austria * ], ]
* ], ]
* ], Canada
* ], China * ], ]
* ], Russia * ], ]
* ], ]
* ], Romania


==See also== ==See also==
* ]
* ]
* ] * ]
* ] * ]
* ] * ]
* ]
* ]
* ]


==Footnotes== ==Notes==
{{Reflist|30em}} {{notelist}}


===Bibliography=== ==References==
{{Reflist}}
* Assall, Paul. ''Juden im Elsass''. Zürich: Rio Verlag. ISBN 3-907668-00-6

* ''Das Elsass: Ein literarischer Reisebegleiter''. Frankfurt a.&nbsp;M.: Insel Verlag, 2001. ISBN 3-458-34446-2
==Further reading==
* Erbe, Michael (Hrsg.) ''Das Elsass: Historische Landschaft im Wandel der Zeiten''. Stuttgart: Kohlhammer, 2002. ISBN 3-17-015771-X
* Assall, Paul. ''Juden im Elsass''. Zürich: Rio Verlag. {{ISBN|3-907668-00-6}}.
* ''Das Elsass: Ein literarischer Reisebegleiter''. Frankfurt a.&nbsp;M.: Insel Verlag, 2001. {{ISBN|3-458-34446-2}}.
* Erbe, Michael (Hrsg.) ''Das Elsass: Historische Landschaft im Wandel der Zeiten''. Stuttgart: ], 2002. {{ISBN|3-17-015771-X}}.
* Faber, Gustav. ''Elsass''. München: Artemis-Cicerone Kunst- und Reiseführer, 1989. * Faber, Gustav. ''Elsass''. München: Artemis-Cicerone Kunst- und Reiseführer, 1989.
* Fischer, Christopher J. ''Alsace to the Alsatians? Visions and Divisions of Alsatian Regionalism, 1870–1939'' (Berghahn Books, 2010); ; 235 pages; * Fischer, Christopher J. ''Alsace to the Alsatians? Visions and Divisions of Alsatian Regionalism, 1870–1939'' (Berghahn Books, 2010).
* Gerson, Daniel. ''Die Kehrseite der Emanzipation in Frankreich: Judenfeindschaft im Elsass 1778 bis 1848''. Essen: Klartext, 2006. ISBN 3-89861-408-5 * Gerson, Daniel. ''Die Kehrseite der Emanzipation in Frankreich: Judenfeindschaft im Elsass 1778 bis 1848''. Essen: Klartext, 2006. {{ISBN|3-89861-408-5}}.
* Herden, Ralf Bernd. ''Straßburg Belagerung 1870''. Norderstedt: BoD, 2007, {{ISBN|978-3-8334-5147-8}}.
* Haeberlin, Marc. ''Elsass, meine große Liebe''. Orselina, La Tavola 2004. ISBN 3-909909-08-6 <br /> über das „Schlaraffenland“ Elsass
* Hummer, Hans J. ''Politics and Power in Early Medieval Europe: Alsace and the Frankish Realm, 600–1000''. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2009.
* Herden, Ralf Bernd. ''Straßburg Belagerung 1870''. Norderstedt: BoD, 2007, ISBN 978-3-8334-5147-8
* Kaeppelin, Charles E. R, and Mary L. Hendee. ''''. Franklin, Pa: C. Miller, 1908.
* {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190612172057/https://boydellandbrewer.com/state-formation-in-early-modern-alsace-1648-1789-hb.html |date=12 June 2019 }}
* Mehling, Marianne (Hrsg.) ''Knaurs Kulturführer in Farbe Elsaß''. München: Droemer Knaur, 1984. * Mehling, Marianne (Hrsg.) ''Knaurs Kulturführer in Farbe Elsaß''. München: Droemer Knaur, 1984.
* Putnam, Ruth. ''Alsace and Lorraine: From Cæsar to Kaiser, 58 B.C.-1871 A.D.'' New York: 1915. * Putnam, Ruth. '''' New York: 1915.
* Schreiber, Hermann. ''Das Elsaß und seine Geschichte, eine Kulturlandschaft im Spannungsfeld zweier Völker''. Augsburg: Weltbild, 1996. * Schreiber, Hermann. ''Das Elsaß und seine Geschichte, eine Kulturlandschaft im Spannungsfeld zweier Völker''. Augsburg: Weltbild, 1996.
* Schwengler, Bernard. ''Le Syndrome Alsacien: d'Letschte?'' Strasbourg: Éditions Oberlin, 1989. ISBN 2-85369-096-2 * Schwengler, Bernard. ''Le Syndrome Alsacien: d'Letschte?'' Strasbourg: Éditions Oberlin, 1989. {{ISBN|2-85369-096-2}}.
* ]. ''Elsass. Das offene Herz Europas''. Straßburg: Édition La Nuée Bleue, 2004. ISBN 2-7165-0618-3 * ]. ''Elsass. Das offene Herz Europas''. Straßburg: Édition La Nuée Bleue, 2004. {{ISBN|2-7165-0618-3}}.
* Vogler, Bernard and Hermann Lersch. ''Das Elsass''. Morstadt: Éditions Ouest-France, 2000. {{ISBN|3-88571-260-1}}.
* Ungerer, Tomi, Danièle Brison, and Tony Schneider. ''Die elsässische Küche. 60 Rezepte aus der Weinstube L'Arsenal''. Straßburg: Édition DNA, 1994. ISBN 2-7165-0341-9
* Vogler, Bernard and Hermann Lersch. ''Das Elsass''. Morstadt: Éditions Ouest-France, 2000. ISBN 3-88571-260-1


==External links== ==External links==
{{Commons category|Alsace}}
* – Official French website (in English)
{{wikivoyage}}
* Info from the Alsace Tourism Board
* * {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151230162539/http://www.region.alsace/ |date=30 December 2015 }}
* {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160205184648/http://us.france.fr/en/discover/alsace |date=5 February 2016 }} – Official French website (in English)
*
* Tourism in Alsace {{fr icon}} * Official Alsace tourism website
*
* {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130423001901/http://www.alsatourisme.fr/ |date=23 April 2013 }} Tourism in Alsace {{in lang|fr}}
<!-- please keep this link: Dmoz page holds a Misplaced Pages back link --> <!-- please keep this link: Dmoz page holds a Misplaced Pages back link -->
* {{in lang|fr}}
*{{ODP|Regional/Europe/France/Regions/Alsace|Alsace}}
* {{in lang|fr}}
* on the website of the ] {{fr icon}}
* {{fr icon}} * (pictures only) {{in lang|fr}}
* {{fr icon}} * (pictures only) {{in lang|fr}}
* {{in lang|fr}}
* (pictures only) {{fr icon}}
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* ('''Elsassisch''') * {{in lang|fr}}

* {{fr icon}}
{{Alsace topics}}
* {{fr icon}}
{{Regions of France|former}}
* {{fr icon}}
{{Décapole}}
{{Regions of France}}
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{{Historic Provinces of France}}
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Latest revision as of 15:17, 31 December 2024

Region of France For other uses, see Alsace (disambiguation). "Elsaß" redirects here. For the battleship, see SMS Elsaß. For the region of the German Empire, see Alsace–Lorraine.
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Place in European Collectivity of Alsace, France
Alsace Elsàss (Alemannic German)
Views of Cernay, Colmar, Strasbourg, Château de Hohenbourg, Riquewihr, Neuf-Brisach
Flag of AlsaceFlagCoat of arms of AlsaceCoat of arms
Anthem: "Elsässisches Fahnenlied" (German)
(English: "Song of the Alsatian Flag")
Instrumental version, 2023
Location of Alsace
CountryFrance
Territorial collectivityEuropean Collectivity of Alsace
PrefectureStrasbourg
Departments 2
Area
 • Total8,280 km (3,200 sq mi)
Population
 • Total1,919,745
 • Density230/km (600/sq mi)
DemonymAlsatian
GDP
 • Total€67.748 billion (2022)
 • Per capita€35,800 (2022)
ISO 3166 codeFR-A
Part of a series on
Alsace
Rot un Wiss, traditional flag of Alsace
History
Culture
Religionaccording to
Concordat in Alsace-Moselle (1801):
(including Lorraine)
Law
Administrative divisions
Politics
Alsace in the European Union
Related topics

Alsace (/ælˈsæs/, US also /ælˈseɪs, ˈælsæs/; French: [alzas] ; Low Alemannic German/Alsatian: Elsàss ; German: Elsass (German spelling before 1996: Elsaß) ; Latin: Alsatia) is a cultural region and a territorial collectivity in eastern France, on the west bank of the upper Rhine next to Germany and Switzerland. In January 2021, it had a population of 1,919,745. Alsatian culture is characterized by a blend of German and French influences.

Until 1871, Alsace included the area now known as the Territoire de Belfort, which formed its southernmost part. From 1982 to 2016, Alsace was the smallest administrative région in metropolitan France, consisting of the Bas-Rhin and Haut-Rhin departments. Territorial reform passed by the French Parliament in 2014 resulted in the merger of the Alsace administrative region with Champagne-Ardenne and Lorraine to form Grand Est. On 1 January 2021, the departments of Bas-Rhin and Haut-Rhin merged into the new European Collectivity of Alsace but remained part of the region Grand Est.

Alsatian is an Alemannic dialect closely related to Swabian, although since World War II most Alsatians primarily speak French. Internal and international migration since 1945 has also changed the ethnolinguistic composition of Alsace. For more than 300 years, from the Thirty Years' War to World War II, the political status of Alsace was heavily contested between France and various German states in wars and diplomatic conferences. The economic and cultural capital of Alsace, as well as its largest city, is Strasbourg, which sits on the present German international border. The city is the seat of several international organizations and bodies.

Etymology

The name Alsace can be traced to the Old High German Ali-saz or Elisaz, meaning "foreign domain". An alternative explanation is from a Germanic Ell-sass, meaning "seated on the Ill", a river in Alsace.

History

Main article: History of Alsace

In prehistoric times, Alsace was inhabited by nomadic hunters. Part of the province of Germania Superior in the Roman Empire, the area went on to become a diffuse border region between the French and the German cultures and languages. Long a center of the German-speaking world, after the end of the Thirty Years' War, southern Alsace was annexed by France in 1648, with most of the remainder conquered later in the century. In contrast to other parts of France, Protestants were permitted to practise their faith in Alsace even after the Edict of Fontainebleau of 1685 that abolished their privileges in the rest of France.

After the 1870–71 Franco-Prussian War, Alsace was annexed by Germany and became a part of the 1871 unified German Empire as a formal "Emperor's Land". After World War I the victorious Allies detached it from Germany and the province became part of the Third French Republic. Having been occupied and annexed by Germany during World War II, it was returned to France by the Allies at the end of World War II.

Pre-Roman Alsace

The presence of hominids in Alsace can be traced back 600,000 years. By 4000 BCE farming, in the form of Linear Pottery culture, arrived in the region from the Danube and the Hungarian plain. The culture was characterized by "timber longhouse settlements and incised pottery ... favoring floodplain edge situations for their permanent villages ... small clearings in the forest" for their crops and animals."

By 100 BCE Germanic peoples, including eventually the Suebi and other tribes under Ariovistus, had begun to intrude into areas along the upper Rhine and Danube long settled by Celtic Gauls. Alsace itself had come to be occupied by the Triboci, a Germanic tribe allied with Ariovistus.

Roman Alsace

In response to the threat posted by Ariovistus, the Aedui, a Celtic tribe allied to Rome, appealed to the Roman Senate and Julius Caesar for aid. In 58 BCE, after negotiations with Ariovistus failed, Julius Caesar routed the Suebi at the foot of the Vosges near what became Cernay in southern Alsace. There followed a "long period of security ... for the Gauls along the middle and upper Rhine."

From the time of Augustus to the early fifth century AD, the area of Alsace was incorporated into the Roman province of Germania Superior. As a border province, the Romans built fortifications and military camps, many of which, including Argentoratum (Strasbourg), evolved into modern towns and cities.

Alemannic and Frankish Alsace

Main article: Duchy of Alsace

In 357 CE, Germanic tribes attempted to conquer Alsace but they were rebuffed by the Romans. With the decline of the Roman Empire, Alsace became the territory of the Germanic Alemanni. The Alemanni were agricultural people, and their Germanic language formed the basis of modern-day dialects spoken along the Upper Rhine (Alsatian, Alemannian, Swabian, Swiss). Clovis and the Franks defeated the Alemanni during the 5th century AD, culminating with the Battle of Tolbiac, and Alsace became part of the Kingdom of Austrasia. Under Clovis' Merovingian successors the inhabitants were Christianized. Alsace remained under Frankish control until the Frankish realm, following the Oaths of Strasbourg of 842, was formally dissolved in 843 at the Treaty of Verdun; the grandsons of Charlemagne divided the realm into three parts. Alsace formed part of the Middle Francia, which was ruled by the eldest grandson Lothar I.

Lothar died early in 855 and his realm was divided into three parts. The part known as Lotharingia, or Lorraine, was given to Lothar's son. The rest was shared between Lothar's brothers Charles the Bald (ruler of the West Frankish realm) and Louis the German (ruler of the East Frankish realm). The Kingdom of Lotharingia was short-lived, however, becoming the stem duchy of Lorraine in Eastern Francia after the Treaty of Ribemont in 880. Alsace was united with the other Alemanni east of the Rhine into the stem duchy of Swabia.

Alsace within the Holy Roman Empire

At about this time, the surrounding areas experienced recurring fragmentation and reincorporations among a number of feudal secular and ecclesiastical lordships, a common process in the Holy Roman Empire. Alsace experienced great prosperity during the 12th and 13th centuries under Hohenstaufen emperors.

Seal of Albert IV, Count of Habsburg (d.1239), inscribed in Latin (with abbreviations): SIGILLUM ALBERTI (COMIS) DE HABESB(URG) ET LANGRAVII ALSACTIAE ("seal of Albert of Habsburg, Count of Habsburg and Landgrave of Alsace")

Frederick I set up Alsace as a province (a procuratio, not a provincia) to be ruled by ministeriales, a non-noble class of civil servants. The idea was that such men would be more tractable and less likely to alienate the fief from the crown out of their own greed. The province had a single provincial court (Landgericht) and a central administration with its seat at Hagenau. Frederick II designated the Bishop of Strasbourg to administer Alsace, but the authority of the bishop was challenged by Count Rudolf of Habsburg, who received his rights from Frederick II's son Conrad IV. Strasbourg began to grow to become the most populous and commercially important town in the region.

In 1262, after a long struggle with the ruling bishops, its citizens gained the status of free imperial city. A stop on the Paris-Vienna-Orient trade route, as well as a port on the Rhine route linking southern Germany and Switzerland to the Netherlands, England and Scandinavia, it became the political and economic center of the region. Cities such as Colmar and Hagenau also began to grow in economic importance and gained a kind of autonomy within the "Décapole" (or "Zehnstädtebund"), a federation of ten free towns.

Though little is known about the early history of the Jews of Alsace, there is a lot of information from the 12th century onwards. They were successful as moneylenders and had the favor of the Emperor. As in much of Europe, the prosperity of Alsace was brought to an end in the 14th century by a series of harsh winters, bad harvests, and the Black Death. These hardships were blamed on Jews, leading to the pogroms of 1336 and 1339. In 1349, Jews of Alsace were accused of poisoning the wells with plague, leading to the massacre of thousands of Jews during the Strasbourg pogrom. Jews were subsequently forbidden to settle in the town. An additional natural disaster was the Rhine rift earthquake of 1356, one of Europe's worst which made ruins of Basel. Prosperity returned to Alsace under Habsburg administration during the Renaissance.

Petite France, Strasbourg

Holy Roman Empire central power had begun to decline following years of imperial adventures in Italian lands, often ceding hegemony in Western Europe to France, which had long since centralized power. France began an aggressive policy of expanding eastward, first to the rivers Rhône and Meuse, and when those borders were reached, aiming for the Rhine. In 1299 the French proposed a marriage alliance between Blanche (sister of Philip IV of France) and Rudolf (son of Albert I of Germany), with Alsace to be the dowry; however, the deal never came off. In 1307, the town of Belfort was first chartered by the Counts of Montbéliard. During the next century, France was to be militarily shattered by the Hundred Years' War, which prevented for a time any further tendencies in this direction. After the conclusion of the war, France was again free to pursue its desire to reach the Rhine and in 1444 a French army appeared in Lorraine and Alsace. It took up winter quarters, demanded the submission of Metz and Strasbourg and launched an attack on Basel.

In 1469, following the Treaty of St. Omer [fr], Upper Alsace was sold by Archduke Sigismund of Austria to Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy. Although Charles was the nominal landlord, taxes were paid to Frederick III, Holy Roman Emperor. The latter was able to use this tax and a dynastic marriage to his advantage to gain back full control of Upper Alsace (apart from the free towns, but including Belfort) in 1477 when it became part of the demesne of the Habsburg family, who were also rulers of the empire. The town of Mulhouse joined the Swiss Confederation in 1515, where it was to remain until 1798.

By the time of the Protestant Reformation in the 16th century, Strasbourg was a prosperous community, and its inhabitants accepted Protestantism in 1523. Martin Bucer was a prominent Protestant reformer in the region. His efforts were countered by the Roman Catholic Habsburgs who tried to eradicate heresy in Upper Alsace. As a result, Alsace was transformed into a mosaic of Catholic and Protestant territories. On the other hand, Mömpelgard (Montbéliard) to the southwest of Alsace, belonging to the Counts of Württemberg since 1397, remained a Protestant enclave in France until 1793.

German Land within the Kingdom of France

This situation prevailed until 1639, when most of Alsace was conquered by France to keep it out of the hands of the Spanish Habsburgs, who by secret treaty in 1617 had gained a clear road to their valuable and rebellious possessions in the Spanish Netherlands, the Spanish Road. Beset by enemies and seeking to gain a free hand in Hungary, the Habsburgs sold their Sundgau territory (mostly in Upper Alsace) to France in 1646, which had occupied it, for the sum of 1.2 million Thalers. When hostilities were concluded in 1648 with the Treaty of Westphalia, most of Alsace was recognized as part of France, although some towns remained independent. The treaty stipulations regarding Alsace were complex. Although the French king gained sovereignty, existing rights and customs of the inhabitants were largely preserved. France continued to maintain its customs border along the Vosges mountains where it had been, leaving Alsace more economically oriented to neighbouring German-speaking lands. The German language remained in use in local administration, in schools, and at the (Lutheran) University of Strasbourg, which continued to draw students from other German-speaking lands. The 1685 Edict of Fontainebleau, by which the French king ordered the suppression of French Protestantism, was not applied in Alsace. France did endeavour to promote Catholicism. Strasbourg Cathedral, for example, which had been Lutheran from 1524 to 1681, was returned to the Catholic Church. However, compared to the rest of France, Alsace enjoyed a climate of religious tolerance.

Louis XIV receiving the keys of Strasbourg in 1681

France consolidated its hold with the 1679 Treaties of Nijmegen, which brought most remaining towns under its control. France seized Strasbourg in 1681 in an unprovoked action. These territorial changes were recognised in the 1697 Treaty of Ryswick that ended the War of the Grand Alliance. But Alsace still contained islands of territory nominally under the sovereignty of German princes and an independent city-state at Mulhouse. These enclaves were established by law, prescription and international consensus.

From French Revolution to the Franco-Prussian War

Alsatian sign, 1792:
Freiheit Gleichheit Brüderlichk. od. Tod (Liberty Equality Fraternity or Death)
Tod den Tyranen (Death to Tyrants)
Heil den Völkern (Long live the Peoples)

The year 1789 brought the French Revolution and with it the first division of Alsace into the départements of Haut- and Bas-Rhin. Alsatians played an active role in the French Revolution. On 21 July 1789, after receiving news of the Storming of the Bastille in Paris, a crowd of people stormed the Strasbourg city hall, forcing the city administrators to flee and putting symbolically an end to the feudal system in Alsace. In 1792, Rouget de Lisle composed in Strasbourg the Revolutionary marching song "La Marseillaise" (as Marching song for the Army of the Rhine), which later became the anthem of France. "La Marseillaise" was played for the first time in April of that year in front of the mayor of Strasbourg Philippe-Frédéric de Dietrich. Some of the most famous generals of the French Revolution also came from Alsace, notably Kellermann, the victor of Valmy, Kléber, who led the armies of the French Republic in Vendée, and Westermann, who also fought in the Vendée.

Mulhouse (a city in southern Alsace), which had been part of Switzerland since 1466, joined France in 1798.

At the same time, some Alsatians were in opposition to the Jacobins and sympathetic to the restoration of the monarchy pursued by the invading forces of Austria and Prussia who sought to crush the nascent revolutionary republic. Many of the residents of the Sundgau made "pilgrimages" to places like Mariastein Abbey, near Basel, in Switzerland, for baptisms and weddings. When the French Revolutionary Army of the Rhine was victorious, tens of thousands fled east before it. When they were later permitted to return (in some cases not until 1799), it was often to find that their lands and homes had been confiscated. These conditions led to emigration by hundreds of families to newly vacant lands in the Russian Empire in 1803–4 and again in 1808. A poignant retelling of this event based on what Goethe had personally witnessed can be found in his long poem Hermann and Dorothea.

In response to the "hundred day" restoration of Napoleon I of France in 1815, Alsace along with other frontier provinces of France was occupied by foreign forces from 1815 to 1818, including over 280,000 soldiers and 90,000 horses in Bas-Rhin alone. This had grave effects on trade and the economy of the region since former overland trade routes were switched to newly opened Mediterranean and Atlantic seaports.

The population grew rapidly, from 800,000 in 1814 to 914,000 in 1830 and 1,067,000 in 1846. The combination of economic and demographic factors led to hunger, housing shortages and a lack of work for young people. Thus, it is not surprising that people left Alsace, not only for Paris – where the Alsatian community grew in numbers, with famous members such as Georges-Eugène Haussmann – but also for more distant places like Russia and the Austrian Empire, to take advantage of the new opportunities offered there: Austria had conquered lands in Eastern Europe from the Ottoman Empire and offered generous terms to colonists as a way of consolidating its hold on the new territories. Many Alsatians also began to sail to the United States, settling in many areas from 1820 to 1850. In 1843 and 1844, sailing ships bringing immigrant families from Alsace arrived at the port of New York. Some settled in Texas and Illinois, many to farm or to seek success in commercial ventures: for example, the sailing ships Sully (in May 1843) and Iowa (in June 1844) brought families who set up homes in northern Illinois and northern Indiana. Some Alsatian immigrants were noted for their roles in 19th-century American economic development. Others ventured to Canada to settle in southwestern Ontario, notably Waterloo County.

Alsatian Jews

Main article: History of the Jews in Alsace

In contrast to the rest of France, the Jews in Alsace had not been expelled during the Middle Ages. By 1790, the Jewish population of Alsace was approximately 22,500, about 3% of the provincial population. They were highly segregated and subject to long-standing antisemitic regulations. They maintained their own customs, Yiddish language, and historic traditions within the tightly knit ghettos; they adhered to Jewish law. Jews were barred from most cities and instead lived in villages. They concentrated in trade, services, and banking. They financed about a third of the mortgages in Alsace. Official tolerance grew during the French Revolution, with full emancipation in 1791. However, local antisemitism also increased and Napoleon turned hostile in 1806, imposing a one-year moratorium on all debts owed to Jews. In the 1830–1870 era, most Jews moved to the cities, where they integrated and acculturated, as antisemitism sharply declined. By 1831, the state began paying salaries to official rabbis, and in 1846 a special legal oath for Jews was discontinued. Antisemitic local riots occasionally occurred, especially during the Revolution of 1848. The merger of Alsace into Germany in 1871–1918 lessened antisemitic violence. The constitution of the Reichsland of 1911 reserved one seat in the first chamber of the Landtag for a representative of the Jewish Consistory of Alsace–Lorraine (besides two seats respectively for the two main Christian denominations).

Struggle between France and united Germany

Main article: Alsace–Lorraine

We Germans who know Germany and France know better what is good for the Alsatians than the unfortunates themselves. In the perversion of their French life they have no exact idea of what concerns Germany.

— Heinrich von Treitschke, German nationalist historian and politician, 1871
Traditional costumes of Alsace

The Franco-Prussian War, which started in July 1870, saw France defeated in May 1871 by the Kingdom of Prussia and other German states. The end of the war led to the unification of Germany. Otto von Bismarck annexed Alsace and northern Lorraine to the new German Empire in 1871. France ceded more than 90% of Alsace and one-fourth of Lorraine, as stipulated in the treaty of Frankfurt; Belfort, the largest Alsatian town south of Mulhouse, remained French. Unlike other member states of the German federation, which had governments of their own, the new Imperial territory of Alsace–Lorraine was under the sole authority of the Kaiser, administered directly by the imperial government in Berlin. Between 100,000 and 130,000 Alsatians (of a total population of about a million and a half) chose to remain French citizens and leave Reichsland Elsaß–Lothringen, many of them resettling in French Algeria as Pieds-Noirs. Only in 1911 was Alsace–Lorraine granted some measure of autonomy, which was manifested also in a flag and an anthem (Elsässisches Fahnenlied). In 1913, however, the Saverne Affair (French: Incident de Saverne) showed the limits of this new tolerance of the Alsatian identity.

An Alsatian woman in traditional costume, photographed by Adolphe Braun in the 1870s

During the First World War, to avoid ground fights between brothers, many Alsatians served as sailors in the Kaiserliche Marine and took part in the Naval mutinies that led to the abdication of the Kaiser in November 1918, which left Alsace–Lorraine without a nominal head of state. The sailors returned home and tried to found an independent republic. While Jacques Peirotes, at this time deputy at the Landrat Elsass–Lothringen and just elected mayor of Strasbourg, proclaimed the forfeiture of the German Empire and the advent of the French Republic, a self-proclaimed government of Alsace–Lorraine declared its independence as the "Republic of Alsace–Lorraine". French troops entered Alsace less than two weeks later to quash the worker strikes and remove the newly established Soviets and revolutionaries from power. With the arrival of the French soldiers, many Alsatians and local Prussian/German administrators and bureaucrats cheered the re-establishment of order.

Although U.S. President Woodrow Wilson had insisted that the région was self-ruling by legal status, as its constitution had stated it was bound to the sole authority of the Kaiser and not to the German state, France would allow no plebiscite, as granted by the League of Nations to some eastern German territories at this time, because the French regarded the Alsatians as Frenchmen liberated from German rule. Germany ceded the region to France under the Treaty of Versailles.

Policies forbidding the use of German and requiring French were promptly introduced. In order not to antagonize the Alsatians, the region was not subjected to some legal changes that had occurred in the rest of France between 1871 and 1919, such as the 1905 French law on the separation of Church and State.

German stamps of Hindenburg marked with "Elsaß" (1940)

Alsace–Lorraine was occupied by Germany in 1940 during the Second World War. Although it was never formally annexed, Alsace–Lorraine was incorporated into the Greater German Reich, which had been restructured into Reichsgaue. Alsace was merged with Baden, and Lorraine with the Saarland, to become part of a planned Westmark. During the war, 130,000 young men from Alsace and Lorraine were conscripted into the German armies against their will (malgré-nous). There were some volunteers for the Waffen SS., although they were outnumbered by conscripts of the 1926–1927 classes. Thirty of said Waffen SS were involved in the Oradour-sur-Glane massacre (29 conscripts, one volunteer). A third of the malgré-nous perished on the Eastern front. In July 1944, 1500 malgré-nous were released from Soviet captivity and sent to Algiers, where they joined the Free French Forces.

After World War II

Today, the territory is in certain areas subject to some laws that are significantly different from the rest of France, which is known as the local law.

In more recent years, the Alsatian language is again being promoted by local, national and European authorities as an element of the region's identity. Alsatian is taught in schools (but is not mandatory) as one of the regional languages of France. German is also taught as a foreign language in local kindergartens and schools. There is a growing network of schools proposing full immersion in Alsatian dialect and in Standard German, called ABCM-Zweisprachigkeit (ABCM -> French acronym for "Association for Bilingualism in the Classroom from Kindergarten onwards", Zweisprachigkeit -> German for "Bilingualism"). However, the Constitution of France still requires that French be the only official language of the Republic.

Timeline

Year(s) Event Ruled by Official or common language
5400–4500 BC Bandkeramiker/Linear Pottery cultures Unknown
2300–750 BC Bell Beaker cultures Proto-Celtic spoken
750–450 BC Hallstatt culture early Iron Age (early Celts) None; Old Celtic spoken
450–58 BC Celts/Gauls firmly secured in entire Gaul, Alsace; trade with Greece is evident (Vix) Celts/Gauls None; Gaulish variety of Celtic widely spoken
58 / 44 BC–
AD 260
Alsace and Gaul conquered by Caesar, provinciated to Germania Superior Roman Empire Latin; Gallic widely spoken
260–274 Postumus founds breakaway Gallic Empire Gallic Empire Latin, Gallic
274–286 Rome reconquers the Gallic Empire, Alsace Roman Empire Latin, Gallic, Germanic (only in Argentoratum)
286–378 Diocletian divides the Roman Empire into Western and Eastern sectors Roman Empire
around 300 Beginning of Germanic migrations to the Roman Empire Roman Empire
378–395 The Visigoths rebel, precursor to waves of German, and Hun invasions Roman Empire Alamannic Incursions
395–436 Death of Theodosius I, causing a permanent division between Western and Eastern Rome Western Roman Empire
436–486 Germanic invasions of the Western Roman Empire Roman Tributary of Gaul Alamannic
486–511 Lower Alsace conquered by the Franks Frankish Realm Old Frankish, Latin; Alamannic
531–614 Upper Alsace conquered by the Franks Frankish Realm
614–795 Totality of Alsace to the Frankish Kingdom Frankish Realm
795–814 Charlemagne begins reign, Charlemagne crowned Emperor of the Romans on 25 December 800 Frankish Empire Old Frankish; Frankish and Alamannic
814 Death of Charlemagne Carolingian Empire Old Frankish; Frankish and Alamannic varieties of Old High German
847–870 Treaty of Verdun gives Alsace and Lotharingia to Lothar I Middle Francia (Carolingian Empire) Frankish; Frankish and Alamannic varieties of Old High German
870–889 Treaty of Mersen gives Alsace to East Francia East Francia (German Kingdom of the Carolingian Empire) Frankish, Frankish and Alamannic varieties of Old High German
889–962 Carolingian Empire breaks up into five Kingdoms, Magyars and Vikings periodically raid Alsace Kingdom of Germany Frankish and Alamannic varieties of Old High German
962–1618 Otto I crowned Holy Roman Emperor Holy Roman Empire Old High German, Middle High German, Modern High German; Alamannic and Franconian German dialects
1618–1674 Louis XIII annexes portions of Alsace during the Thirty Years' War Holy Roman Empire German; Alamannic and Franconian dialects (Alsatian)
1674–1871 Louis XIV annexes the rest of Alsace during the Franco-Dutch War, establishing full French sovereignty over the region Kingdom of France Officially French
(Alsatian and German tolerated and spoken by an estimated 85%-90% of the population)
1871–1918 Franco-Prussian War causes French cession of Alsace to German Empire German Empire German; German/Alsatian (86.8% - 1,492,347 people), French (11.5% - 198,318 people), Italian (1.1% - 18,750 people), German and a second language (0.4% - 7,485 people), Polish (0.1% - 1,410 people). Statistics from 1871. Over time, French declined to 10.9%
1919–1940 Treaty of Versailles causes German cession of Alsace to France France French; Alsatian, French, German
1940–1944 Nazi Germany conquers Alsace, establishing Gau Baden-Elsaß Nazi Germany German; Alsatian, French, German
1945–present French control France French; French and Alsatian German (declining minority language)

Geography

Topography

Topographic map of Alsace

Alsace has an area of 8,283 km, making it the smallest région of metropolitan France. It is almost four times longer than it is wide, corresponding to a plain between the Rhine in the east and the Vosges mountains in the west.

It includes the départements of Haut-Rhin and Bas-Rhin (known previously as Sundgau and Nordgau). It borders Germany on the north and the east, Switzerland and Franche-Comté on the south and Lorraine on the west.

Several valleys are also found in the région. Its highest point is the Grand Ballon in Haut-Rhin, which reaches a height of 1,424 m (4,672 ft). It contains many forests, primarily in the Vosges and in Bas-Rhin (Haguenau Forest).

The ried lies along the Rhine.

Geology

See also: Vosges and Jura coal mining basins
The Grand Ballon, southern face, seen from the valley of the Thur

Alsace is the part of the plain of the Rhine located at the west of the Rhine, on its left bank. It is a rift or graben, from the Oligocene epoch, associated with its horsts: the Vosges and the Black Forest.

The Jura Mountains, formed by slip (induced by the alpine uplift) of the Mesozoic cover on the Triassic formations, goes through the area of Belfort.

Climate

Alsace has an oceanic climate at low altitude and a continental climate at high altitude. There is fairly low precipitation because the Vosges protect it from the west. The city of Colmar has a sunny microclimate; it is the second driest city in France, with an annual precipitation of around 700 mm (28 in), making it ideal for vin d'Alsace (Alsatian wine).

Governance

Official logo of the European Collectivity of Alsace

Since 2021, Alsace has been a territorial collectivity called the European Collectivity of Alsace (collectivité européenne d'Alsace).

Administrative divisions

The European Collectivity of Alsace is divided into 2 departmental constituencies (circonscriptions départementales), 9 departmental arrondissements, 40 cantons, and 880 communes.

Administrative map of Bas-Rhin

Bas-Rhin

Administrative map of Haut-Rhin

Haut-Rhin

Society

Demographics

Alsace's population increased to 1,919,745 in 2021. It has regularly increased over time, except in wartime and shortly after the German annexation of 1871 (when many Alsatians who had opted to keep their French citizenship emigrated to France), by both natural growth and immigration. High population growth during the post-WW2 economic boom of the Trente Glorieuses ended after the 1973 oil crisis. Demographic growth picked up again in the 1990s and 2000s, but by the 2010s Alsace entered a new period of slow demographic growth.

Historical population of Alsace
(within the borders set in 1871)
YearPop.±% p.a.
1806 751,008—    
1821 843,973+0.78%
1831 933,828+1.02%
1836 976,478+0.85%
1841 989,477+0.26%
1846 1,031,360+0.82%
1851 1,043,859+0.24%
1856 1,028,446−0.31%
1861 1,057,647+0.55%
1866 1,082,193+0.46%
1871 1,059,240−0.37%
1875 1,051,554−0.18%
1880 1,073,954+0.42%
1885 1,074,626+0.01%
1890 1,093,114+0.34%
1895 1,116,086+0.42%
1900 1,154,641+0.68%
YearPop.±% p.a.
1905 1,198,774+0.75%
1910 1,218,544+0.33%
1921 1,120,629−0.81%
1926 1,161,639+0.72%
1931 1,204,968+0.74%
1936 1,219,381+0.24%
1946 1,144,986−0.63%
1954 1,217,581+0.75%
1962 1,318,070+1.02%
1968 1,412,385+1.16%
1975 1,517,330+1.04%
1982 1,566,048+0.45%
1990 1,624,372+0.46%
1999 1,734,145+0.73%
2009 1,843,053+0.62%
2015 1,879,265+0.32%
2021 1,919,745+0.36%
Graphs are unavailable due to technical issues. Updates on reimplementing the Graph extension, which will be known as the Chart extension, can be found on Phabricator and on MediaWiki.org.
Sources: French and German censuses (1806-1871), (1876–2021),

Immigration

At the 2018 census, 69.9% of the inhabitants of Alsace were natives of Alsace, 16.0% were born in the rest of Metropolitan France, 0.5% were born in Overseas France, and 13.7% were born in foreign countries. Nearly 44% of the immigrants come from Europe, in particular from Germany (natives of Germany residing in Alsace where housing is cheaper), Italy, Portugal and Serbia. Since 2008, the number of Turkish immigrants living in Alsace has declined, whereas the number of Maghreban immigrants has risen less than the number of European immigrants. The fastest growing groups of immigrants are those from Asia and from sub-Saharan Africa.

Place of birth of residents of Alsace
(at the 1968, 1975, 1982, 1990, 1999, 2008, 2013, and 2018 censuses)
Census Born in Alsace Born in the rest of
Metropolitan France
Born in
Overseas France
Born in foreign
countries with French
citizenship at birth
Immigrants
2018 69.9% 16.0% 0.5% 2.2% 11.6%
from Europe from the Maghreb from Turkey from the rest of the world
5.1% 2.6% 1.5% 2.4%
2013 71.1% 15.4% 0.4% 2.3% 10.8%
from Europe from the Maghreb from Turkey from the rest of the world
4.8% 2.5% 1.6% 2.0%
2008 71.8% 15.3% 0.4% 2.3% 10.3%
from Europe from the Maghreb from Turkey from the rest of the world
4.5% 2.4% 1.6% 1.8%
1999 73.6% 15.4% 0.4% 2.1% 8.5%
from Europe from the Maghreb from Turkey from the rest of the world
4.2% 1.9% 1.3% 1.1%
1990 75.9% 13.4% 0.3% 2.4% 7.9%
1982 76.8% 12.5% 0.3% 2.6% 7.8%
1975 78.3% 11.6% 0.2% 2.6% 7.3%
1968 81.7% 9.8% 0.1% 2.8% 5.6%
^a Persons born abroad of French parents, such as Pieds-Noirs and children of French expatriates.
^b An immigrant is by French definition a person born in a foreign country and who did not have French citizenship at birth. Note that an immigrant may have acquired French citizenship since moving to France, but is still listed as an immigrant in French statistics. On the other hand, persons born in France with foreign citizenship (the children of immigrants) are not listed as immigrants.
^c Morocco, Tunisia, Algeria
Source: INSEE

Religion

Religion in Alsace
religion percent
Catholic 70%
Protestant 17%
No religion 8%
Other faith 5%
Temple Saint-Étienne (architect Jean-Baptiste Schacre), the main Calvinist church of Mulhouse

Alsace is generally seen as the most religious of all the French regions. Most of the Alsatian population is Roman Catholic, but, largely because of the region's German heritage, a significant Protestant community also exists: today, the EPCAAL (a Lutheran church) is France's second largest Protestant church, also forming an administrative union (UEPAL) with the much smaller Calvinist EPRAL. Unlike the rest of France, the Local law in Alsace–Moselle still provides for the Napoleonic Concordat of 1801 and the organic articles, which provides public subsidies to the Roman Catholic, Lutheran, and Calvinist churches, as well as to Jewish synagogues; religion classes in one of these faiths are compulsory in public schools. The divergence in policy from the French majority is because the region was part of Imperial Germany when the 1905 law separating the French church and state was instituted (for a more comprehensive history, see Alsace–Lorraine). Controversy erupts periodically on the appropriateness of that legal disposition, as well as on the exclusion of other religions from the arrangement.

Following the Protestant Reformation, promoted by the local reformer Martin Bucer, the principle of cuius regio, eius religio led to a certain amount of religious diversity in the highlands of northern Alsace. Landowners, who as "local lords" had the right to decide the religion that was allowed on their land, were eager to entice populations from the more attractive lowlands to settle and develop their property. Many accepted without discrimination Catholics, Lutherans, Calvinists, Jews and Anabaptists. Multiconfessional villages appeared, particularly in the region of Alsace bossue. Alsace became one of the French regions boasting a thriving Jewish community and the only region with a noticeable Anabaptist population. Philipp Jakob Spener who founded Pietism was born in Alsace. The schism of the Amish under the lead of Jacob Amman from the Mennonites occurred in 1693 in Sainte-Marie-aux-Mines. The strongly Catholic Louis XIV tried in vain to drive them from Alsace. When Napoleon imposed military conscription without religious exception, most emigrated to the American continent.

In 1707, the simultaneum forced many Reformed and Lutheran church buildings to also allow Catholic services. About 50 such "simultaneous churches" still exist in modern Alsace, but with the Catholic church's general lack of priests, they tend to hold Catholic services only occasionally.

Culture

Alsace historically was part of the Holy Roman Empire and the German realm of culture. Since the 17th century, the region has passed between German and French control numerous times, resulting in a cultural blend. German traits remain in the more traditional, rural parts of the culture, such as the cuisine and architecture, whereas modern institutions are totally dominated by French culture.

Symbolism

Coat of arms of Alsace

Strasbourg

Coat of arms of Strasbourg

Strasbourg's arms are the colours of the shield of the Bishop of Strasbourg (a band of red on a white field, also considered an inversion of the arms of the diocese) at the end of a revolt of the burghers during the Middle Ages who took their independence from the teachings of the Bishop. It retains its power over the surrounding area.

Flags

Main article: Flag of Alsace
Rot-un-Wiss, the historical flag
The region's flag from 1949 to 2008

There is controversy around the recognition of the Alsatian flag. The authentic historical flag is the Rot-un-Wiss; Red and White are commonly found on the coat of arms of Alsatian cities (Strasbourg, Mulhouse, Sélestat...) and of many Swiss cities, especially in Basel's region. The German region Hesse uses a flag similar to the Rot-un-Wiss. As it underlines the Germanic roots of the region, it was replaced in 1949 by a new "Union jack-like" flag representing the union of the two départements. It has, however, no real historical relevance. It has been since replaced again by a slightly different one, also representing the two départements. With the purpose of "Francizing" the region, the Rot-un-Wiss has not been recognized by Paris. Some overzealous statesmen have called it a Nazi invention – while its origins date back to the 11th century and the Red and White banner of Gérard de Lorraine (aka. d'Alsace). The Rot-un-Wiss flag is still known as the real historical emblem of the region by most of the population and the départements' parliaments and has been widely used during protests against the creation of a new "super-region" gathering Champagne-Ardennes, Lorraine and Alsace, namely on Colmar's statue of liberty.

Language

Spatial distribution of dialects in Alsace prior to the expansion of standard French in the 20th century
An Alsatian dialect speaker, recorded in France

Although German dialects were spoken in Alsace for most of its history, the dominant language in Alsace today is French.

The traditional language of the région is Alsatian, an Alemannic dialect of Upper German spoken on both sides of the Rhine and closely related to Swiss German. Some Frankish dialects of West Central German are also spoken in "Alsace Bossue" and in the extreme north of Alsace. As is customary for regional languages in France, neither Alsatian nor the Frankish dialects have any form of official status, although both are now recognized as languages of France and can be chosen as subjects in lycées.

Although Alsace has been part of France multiple times in the past, the region had no direct connection with the French state for several centuries. From the end of the Roman Empire (5th century) to the French annexation (17th century), Alsace was politically part of the German world.

During the Lutheran Reform, the towns of Alsace were the first to adopt the German language as their official language instead of Latin. It was in Strasbourg that German was first used for the liturgy. It was also in Strasbourg that the first German Bible was published in 1466.

From the annexation of Alsace by France in the 17th century and the language policy of the French Revolution up to 1870, knowledge of French in Alsace increased considerably. With the education reforms of the 19th century, the middle classes began to speak and write French well. The French language never really managed, however, to win over the masses, the vast majority of whom continued to speak their German dialects and write in German (which we would now call "standard German").

Between 1870 and 1918, Alsace was annexed by the German Empire in the form of an imperial province or Reichsland, and the mandatory official language, especially in schools, became High German. French lost ground to such an extent that it has been estimated that only 2% of the population spoke French fluently, and only 8% had some knowledge of it (Maugue, 1970).

After 1918, French was the only language used in schools, particularly primary schools. After much argument and discussion and after many temporary measures, a memorandum was issued by Vice-Chancellor Pfister in 1927 and governed education in primary schools until 1939.

During a reannexation by Germany (1940–1945), High German was reinstated as the language of education. The population was forced to speak German and 'French' family names were Germanized. Following the Second World War, the 1927 regulation was not reinstated, and the teaching of German in primary schools was suspended by a provisional rectorial decree, which was supposed to enable French to regain lost ground. The teaching of German became a major issue, however, as early as 1946. After World War II, the French government pursued, in line with its traditional language policy, a campaign to suppress the use of German as part of a wider Francization campaign. The local German dialect was rendered a backward regional "Germanic" dialect not being attached to German.

In 1951, Article 10 of the Deixonne Law (Loi Deixonne) on the teaching of local languages and dialects made provision for Breton, Basque, Catalan and old Provençal but not for Corsican, Dutch (West Flemish) or Alsatian in Alsace and Moselle. However, in a Decree of 18 December 1952, supplemented by an Order of 19 December of the same year, optional teaching of the German language was introduced in elementary schools in communes in which the language of habitual use was the Alsatian dialect.

In 1972, the Inspector General of German, Georges Holderith, obtained authorization to reintroduce German into 33 intermediate classes on an experimental basis. This teaching of German, referred to as the Holderith Reform, was later extended to all pupils in the last two years of elementary school. This reform is still largely the basis of German teaching (but not Alsatian) in elementary schools today.

It was not until 9 June 1982, with the Circulaire sur la langue et la culture régionales en Alsace (Memorandum on regional language and culture in Alsace) issued by the Vice-Chancellor of the Académie Pierre Deyon, that the teaching of German in primary schools in Alsace really began to be given more official status. The Ministerial Memorandum of 21 June 1982, known as the Circulaire Savary, introduced financial support, over three years, for the teaching of regional languages in schools and universities. This memorandum was, however, implemented in a fairly lax manner.

Both Alsatian and Standard German were for a time banned from public life (including street and city names, official administration, and educational system). Though the ban has long been lifted and street signs today are often bilingual, Alsace–Lorraine is today predominantly French in language and culture. Few young people speak Alsatian today, although there do still exist one or two enclaves in the Sundgau region where some older inhabitants cannot speak French, and where Alsatian is still used as the mother tongue. A related Alemannic German survives on the opposite bank of the Rhine, in Baden, and especially in Switzerland. However, while French is the major language of the region, the Alsatian dialect of French is heavily influenced by German and other languages such as Yiddish in phonology and vocabulary.

This situation has spurred a movement to preserve the Alsatian language, which is perceived as endangered, a situation paralleled in other régions of France, such as Brittany or Occitania. Alsatian is now taught in French high schools. Increasingly, French is the only language used at home and at work, and a growing number of people have a good knowledge of standard German as a foreign language learned in school.

The constitution of the Fifth Republic states that French alone is the official language of the Republic. However, Alsatian, along with other regional languages, are recognized by the French government in the official list of languages of France.

Although the French government signed the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages in 1992, it never ratified the treaty and therefore no legal basis exists for any of the regional languages in France. However, visitors to Alsace can see indications of renewed political and cultural interest in the language – in Alsatian signs appearing in car-windows and on hoardings, and in new official bilingual street signs in Strasbourg and Mulhouse.

A 1999 INSEE survey, included in the 1999 Census, the majority of the population in Alsace speak French as their first language, 39.0% (or 500,000 people) of the population speak Alsatian, 16.2% (or 208,000 people) speak German, 75,200 people speak English (or 5.9%) and 27,600 people speak Italian.

The survey counted 548,000 adult speakers of Alsatian in France, making it the second most-spoken regional language in the country (after Occitan). Like all regional languages in France, however, the transmission of Alsatian is on the decline. While 39% of the adult population of Alsace speak Alsatian, only one in four children speak it, and only one in ten children uses it regularly.

Architecture

Colmar's old town

The traditional habitat of the Alsatian lowland, like in other regions of Germany and Northern Europe, consists of houses constructed with walls in timber framing and cob and roofing in flat tiles. This type of construction is abundant in adjacent parts of Germany and can be seen in other areas of France, but their particular abundance in Alsace is owed to several reasons:

  1. The proximity to the Vosges where the wood can be found.
  2. During periods of war and bubonic plague, villages were often burned down, so to prevent the collapse of the upper floors, ground floors were built of stone and upper floors built in half-timberings to prevent the spread of fire.
  3. During most of its history, a great part of Alsace was flooded by the Rhine every year. Half-timbered houses were easy to knock down and to move around during those times (a day was necessary to move it and a day to rebuild it in another place).

However, half-timbering was found to increase the risk of fire, which is why from the 19th century, it began to be rendered. In recent times, villagers started to paint the rendering white in accordance with Beaux-Arts movements. To discourage this, the region's authorities gave financial grants to the inhabitants to paint the rendering in various colours, in order to return to the original style and many inhabitants accepted (more for financial reasons than by firm belief).

Cuisine

Flammekueche

Alsatian cuisine, somewhat based on German culinary traditions, is marked by the use of pork in various forms. It is perhaps mostly known for the region's wines and beers. Traditional dishes include baeckeoffe, flammekueche, choucroute, and fleischnacka. Southern Alsace, also called the Sundgau, is characterized by carpe frite (that also exists in Yiddish tradition).

Food

Kugelhupf

The festivities of the year's end involve the production of a great variety of biscuits and small cakes called bredela as well as pain d'épices (gingerbread cakes) which are baked around Christmas time. The Kugelhupf is also popular in Alsace, and the Christstollen during the Christmas season.

A gastronomic symbol of the région is the Choucroute, a local variety of Sauerkraut. The word Sauerkraut in Alsatian has the form sûrkrût, same as in other southwestern German dialects, and means "sour cabbage" as its Standard German equivalent. This word was included into the French language as choucroute. To make it, the cabbage is finely shredded, layered with salt and juniper and left to ferment in wooden barrels. Sauerkraut can be served with poultry, pork, sausage or even fish. Traditionally it is served with Strasbourg sausage or frankfurters, bacon, smoked pork or smoked Morteau or Montbéliard sausages, or a selection of other pork products. Served alongside are often roasted or steamed potatoes or dumplings.

Alsace is also well known for its foie gras made in the region since the 17th century. Additionally, Alsace is known for its fruit juices and mineral waters.

Wines

Riesling grapes

Alsace is an important wine-producing région. Vins d'Alsace (Alsace wines) are mostly white. Alsace produces some of the world's most noted dry rieslings and is the only region in France to produce mostly varietal wines identified by the names of the grapes used (wine from Burgundy is also mainly varietal, but not normally identified as such), typically from grapes also used in Germany. The most notable example is Gewurztraminer.

Beers

Alsace is also the main beer-producing region of France, thanks primarily to breweries in and near Strasbourg. These include those of Fischer, Karlsbräu, Kronenbourg, and Heineken International. Hops are grown in Kochersberg and in northern Alsace. Schnapps is also traditionally made in Alsace, but it is in decline because home distillers are becoming less common and the consumption of traditional, strong, alcoholic beverages is decreasing.

In tales

Alsatian stork

The stork is a main feature of Alsace and was the subject of many legends told to children. The bird practically disappeared around 1970, but re-population efforts are continuing. They are mostly found on roofs of houses, churches and other public buildings in Alsace.

The Easter Bunny was first mentioned in Georg Franck von Franckenau's De ovis paschalibus (About Easter eggs) in 1682 referring to an Alsace tradition of an Easter Hare bringing Easter eggs.

The term "Alsatia"

Main article: Alsatia

"Alsatia", the Latin form of Alsace's name, entered the English language as "a lawless place" or "a place under no jurisdiction" prior to the 17th century as a reflection of the British perception of the region at that time. It was used into the 20th century as a term for a ramshackle marketplace, "protected by ancient custom and the independence of their patrons". The word is still in use in the 21st century among the English and Australian judiciaries to describe a place where the law cannot reach: "In setting up the Serious Organised Crime Agency, the state has set out to create an Alsatia – a region of executive action free of judicial oversight," Lord Justice Sedley in UMBS v SOCA 2007.

Derived from the above, "Alsatia" was historically a cant term for the area near Whitefriars, London, which was for a long time a sanctuary. It is first known in print in the title of The Squire of Alsatia, a 1688 play written by Thomas Shadwell.

Economy

According to the Institut National de la Statistique et des Études Économiques (INSEE), Alsace had a gross domestic product of 44.3 billion euros in 2002. With a GDP per capita of €24,804, it is the second région of France, after only Île-de-France, and 68% of Alsatian jobs are in the services, and 25% are in industry, which makes Alsace one of France's most industrialised régions.

Alsace is a région of varied economic activity, including:

Alsace has many international ties and 35% of firms are foreign companies (notably German, Swiss, American, Japanese, and Scandinavian).

Tourism

Having been early and always densely populated, Alsace is famous for its high number of picturesque villages, churches and castles and for the various beauties of its three main towns, in spite of severe destructions suffered throughout five centuries of wars between France and Germany.

Alsace is furthermore famous for its vineyards (especially along the 170 km of the Route des Vins d'Alsace from Marlenheim to Thann) and the Vosges mountains with their thick and green forests and picturesque lakes.

Château du Haut-Kœnigsbourg
Colmar petitevenise
The main entrance of the Ouvrage Schoenenbourg from the Maginot Line

Transportation

Roads

Ponts Couverts, Strasbourg

Most major car journeys are made on the A35 autoroute, which links Saint-Louis on the Swiss border to Lauterbourg on the German border.

The A4 toll road (towards Paris) begins 20 km (12 mi) northwest of Strasbourg and the A36 toll road towards Lyon, begins 10 km (6.2 mi) west from Mulhouse.

Spaghetti junctions (built in the 1970s and 1980s) are prominent in the comprehensive system of motorways in Alsace, especially in the outlying areas of Strasbourg and Mulhouse. These cause a major buildup of traffic and are the main sources of pollution in the towns, notably in Strasbourg where the motorway traffic of the A35 was 170,000 per day in 2002.

At present, plans are being considered for building a new dual carriageway west of Strasbourg, which would reduce the buildup of traffic in that area by picking up north and southbound vehicles and getting rid of the buildup outside Strasbourg. The line plans to link up the interchange of Hœrdt to the north of Strasbourg, with Innenheim in the southwest. The opening is envisaged at the end of 2011, with an average usage of 41,000 vehicles a day. Estimates of the French Works Commissioner however, raised some doubts over the interest of such a project, since it would pick up only about 10% of the traffic of the A35 at Strasbourg. Paradoxically, this reversed the situation of the 1950s. At that time, the French trunk road left of the Rhine not been built, so that traffic would cross into Germany to use the Karlsruhe-Basel Autobahn.

To add to the buildup of traffic, the neighbouring German state of Baden-Württemberg has imposed a tax on heavy-goods vehicles using their Autobahnen. Thus, a proportion of the HGVs travelling from north Germany to Switzerland or southern Alsace bypasses the A5 on the Alsace-Baden-Württemberg border and uses the untolled French A35 instead.

Trains

Place de l'Homme de Fer Tram Station

TER Alsace is the rail network serving Alsace. Its network is articulated around the city of Strasbourg. It is one of the most developed rail networks in France, financially sustained partly by the French railroad SNCF, and partly by the région Alsace.

Because the Vosges are surmountable only by the Col de Saverne and the Belfort Gap, it has been suggested that Alsace needs to open up and get closer to France in terms of its rail links. Developments already under way or planned include:

  • the TGV Est (Paris – Strasbourg) had its first phase brought into service in June 2007, bringing down the Strasbourg-Paris trip from 4 to 2 hours 20 minutes, and further reducing it to 1h 50m after the completion of the second phase in 2016.
  • the TGV Rhin-Rhône between Dijon and Mulhouse (opened in 2011)
  • a tram-train system in Mulhouse (2011)
  • an interconnection with the German InterCityExpress, as far as Kehl (expected 2016)

However, the abandoned Maurice-Lemaire tunnel towards Saint-Dié-des-Vosges was rebuilt as a toll road.

Waterways

Port traffic of Alsace exceeds 15 million tonnes, of which about three-quarters is centred on Strasbourg, which is the second busiest French fluvial harbour. The enlargement plan of the Rhône–Rhine Canal, intended to link up the Mediterranean Sea and Central Europe (Rhine, Danube, North Sea and Baltic Sea) was abandoned in 1998 for reasons of expense and land erosion, notably in the Doubs valley.

Air traffic

There are two international airports in Alsace:

Strasbourg is also two hours away by road from one of the largest European airports, Frankfurt Main, and 2 hours 30 minutes from Charles de Gaulle Airport through the direct TGV service, stopping in Terminal 2.

Cycling network

Crossed by three EuroVelo routes

Alsace is the most bicycle-friendly region of France, with 2,000 kilometres (1,200 mi) of cycle routes. The network is of a very good standard and well signposted. All the towpaths of the canals in Alsace (canal des houillères de la Sarre, canal de la Marne au Rhin, canal de la Bruche, canal du Rhône au Rhin) are tarred.

Notable people

Statue of Martin Schongauer by Frédéric Bartholdi in front of the Unterlinden Museum, Colmar

The following is a selection of people born in Alsace who have been particularly influential or successful in their respective fields.

See also: Category:People from Alsace and Alsatians (people)

Arts

Business

Literature

Military

Nobility

Religion

Sciences

Sports

Major communities

German original names in brackets if French names differ:

Sister regions

There is an accord de coopération internationale between Alsace and the following regions:

See also

Notes

References

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Further reading

External links

 Alsace topics
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Holy Roman Empire Décapole of the Holy Roman Empire
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Category:Alsace

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