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Samsun (Greek: Σαμψούντα Sampsoúnta; see also List of traditional Greek place names) is a city in northern Turkey, on the coast of the Black Sea, with a population of 396,900 as of 2004. It is the capital of Samsun Province and an important port city. Samsun was founded as the colony Amisos by settlers from Miletus in the 7th century BC. It was later a part of the realm Pontus.
Today many visitors will find themselves in Samsun mostly for reasons of business or for Atatürk starting there the War of Independence. The dormant town of the times of Atatürk became an important trade centre and has a large modern port. The only thing that didn't change is the hospitality of Samsun's inhabitants and the growing of the aromatic Turkish tobacco in the deltas. Few things remind the visitor of the rich past of this town. Whatever their size, Samsun port remain important gates for in or exporting new ideas and renovations.
Samsun is situated between two river deltas jutting out into the Black Sea, north of Turkey. West of the town the Kizilirmark (the Red River), one of the longest rivers of Anatolia, produced its fertile delta, East of the town the Yesilirmak (the Green River), a river that passes some remarkable towns on its way to the sea, did the same.
People always were attracted by the combination of fertile ground and shallow waters for a harbor, due to this Samsun has a long history and its myths go back even longer. According to some ancient myths the delta east of Samsun was the land of the Amazons. The geographer Strabo (64 BC-21 AD) describes the Amazons as a people of female warriors. In order to shoot easily with bow and arrow they had one of their breast removed. Amazon is derived from the old Greek and means 'without breasts'. The Amazons used men from neighboring peoples to reproduce themselves and male children were sent to neighboring peoples. The myths situate the period of the Amazons about 1200 BC.
Fiction or non fiction, fact is that the Amazons' myth spread again under the conquerors in South America. Along world's biggest river a people of female warriors should live. The female warriors were never found but the river was named the Amazon.
The town is pleasant and its centre, Cumhuriyet Meydani (Square of the Republic), is near the port. North of Cumhuriyet Meydani (at Atatürk Bulvari) is the Tourist Information Office. A bit west from the tourist information office you'll find the Statue of Atatürk's Landing. Further West along Atatürk Bulvari, you'll pass the Buyuk Samsun Hotel and thereafter you'll see the Kultur Sarayi (Palace of Culture), a building shaped as a ski jump. Events as concerts and other performances take place here.
East of the tourist office you'll find the Archaeological and Atatürk Museum. The archaeological part of the museum displays fine ancient artifacts found in the Samsun area. The Atatürk section comprises photographs of his life and some personal belongings (Open from 8:30 till 12:00 and from 14:00 till 17:00).
Following from Cumhuriyet Meydani the road north to the port and turning right brings you to The Russian Market (Rus Pazari). All kinds of goods are sold here at a friendly price.
East of Cumhuriyet Meydani you might have a glass of tea, coffee or something cold in the pleasant Park. In the evening it won't take long before you have a fine conversation with the friendly locals.
In the eastern side of the park stands an equestrian Statue of Atatürk, it's big and a bit overdone. The Austrian sculptor Heinz Kriphel worked three years on it (1928-1931).
It's also possible to have a ride in a two horse drawn carriage (Fayton), mostly there will be some of those waiting at Cumhuriyet Meydani or in the shade opposite Atatürk Bulvari. The Black Sea people love their horses and take a pride in and depend on them. The horses are well groomed and tenderly cared for, farmer's carriages are often painted with local motives.
South from Cumhuriyet Meydani you can follow the 19 Mayis Bulvari. It will take you right away to the Atatürk (Gazi) Museum. It houses Atatürk's bedroom, his study and conference room as well some personal belongings.
Nearby is the Pazar Mosque, Samsun's oldest building, a mosque built by the Ilhanid Mongols in the 13th century.
On the way to Amasya the road climbs slowly but steadily and passes over the Karadag Gecidi (Karadag Pass) at an altitude of 940 meters. The landscape is green and little streams flow beneath the road.
Havza is a little charming town and is still well known for its hot springs (56 °C). In Havza Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, just before he started The War of Independence, learned that the area was overun by Greek Pontian partizans. A mass meeting was staged and the citizens adopted a policy of resistance. The Sultan's government in Istanbul sent, under heavy pressure of the Entente powers, to the Inspector General Mustafa Kemal in Havza, an order to return to the capital (Istanbul). Mustafa Kemal disobeyed this and all succeeding orders. Since British troops were not far off and had heard what was going on in Havza, Mustafa Kemal decided to move about 50 kilometers further to Amasya. In Havza the goal of putting up resistance was reached.
Climate in Samsun in August/September is about 28 °C in the day, around 24 °C at night, rather humid.
History
Greek colonists settled in the 6th century BC and established a flourishing trade with the people of the interior of Asia Minor.
In the 3rd century BC Samsun came under the rule of the expanding Kingdom of Pontus. Initially the Kingdom of Pontus had been a part of the empire of Alexander the Great that broke up soon after his death in the 4th century BC. At its zenith the Kingdom of Pontus controlled the north as well as parts of central Anatolia and merchant towns on the northern Black Sea shores.
The Romans took over in 47 BC and were replaced by the Byzantines. The town was captured by the Seljuks (around 1200 AD), taken over by the Ilhanid Mongols and later became part of a Turkish principality. Samsun was incorporated in the network of Genoese trading posts and was taken by the Ottomans in the first part of the 15th century. Before leaving, the Genoese burnt the town to the ground.
Under Ottoman rule the land around the town later mainly produced tobacco. The town was connected to the railway system in the second half of the 19th century and the tobacco trade flourished. Its port had fallen prey to a slow decay and despite the tobacco Samsun became a rather dormant place.
The city has also an important place in modern Turkish history because the beginning of national liberation movement was initiated in 1919 by Atatürk’s landing in Samsun.
Further information: Turkish_War_of_Independence