Chokha - Misplaced Pages

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Revision as of 14:43, 2 June 2021 by Rodw (talk | contribs) (Disambiguated: Ingush → Ingush people, burka → Burka (Caucasus), Adyghe → Adyghe people)(diff) ← Previous revision | Latest revision (diff) | Newer revision → (diff) High-necked wool coat worn by men in the Caucasus

A chokha also known as the cherkeska is a woolen coat with a high neck that is part of the traditional male dress of peoples of the Caucasus.. It was in wide use among People of the Caucasus such as the Nogais, Abazins, Abkhazians, Azerbaijanis, Armenians, Balkars, Georgians, Ingush, Chechens, Ossetians, Karachais, Circassians or Adyghes, the peoples of Dagestan, as well as Terek and Kuban Cossacks. The attire was worn from the 9th century until the early 20th century, when it declined during the Soviet Era. Nowadays, chokha is no longer in use but continues to still be worn for ceremonial and festive occasions.

In Georgia it has become the symbol of national pride, and is frequently worn by Georgian men at weddings and official functions.. Former Georgian President Mikheil Saakashvili ordered high-ranking Georgian officials working abroad to present themselves in national costumes, including the chokha, at official meetings.

Etymology

The word chokha is of Persian origin meaning 'outfit made of textile'. Russians and Ukrainians called it a cherkeska (meaning 'of/from Circassia') because when they arrived in the Caucasus they saw it for the first time being worn by Circassians. Later the Kuban Cossacks adopted it as part of their costume. In Circassian languages, the chokha is known as shwakh-tsia which means 'covers the horseman', or simply tsia, meaning 'from fabric', and fasha, which means 'fits you'.

History and origins

The outfit originated in North Caucasus. It is commonly accepted that the outfit was worn by the Adyge-Alanic tribes which later got popularized by the Khazars or vice versa, the prototype may have been a common type of clothing among the Khazars, from which it was borrowed by other peoples inhabiting the Caucasus. This is especially clearly illustrated by the caftan found in Moschevaya Balka. It was sewn from Iranian fabric with images of Senmurv, but according to the canon of the Khazar Kaganate , in which the nobility of the peoples living in it, regardless of their ethnicity, dressed in the Khazar fashion. Perhaps the first image of the chokha (or, more precisely, its prototype) is displayed on Khazar silver dishes. A Khazar costume complex can be seen on a silver Khazar dish in the scene of a single combat between two heroes . It consisted of a swing, fitted, belted caftan, wrapped to the left with a lapel at the collar, long pants tucked into boots, and a headdress in the form of a bandage (on one of the characters). The costume occupies a special place in this series as the most important indicator of the unity of the material culture of the multilingual peoples of the Khazar Kaganate .

The 9th century caftan known as chokha obviously does not resemble the military outfit worn in Caucasus and among Cossacks that we know today. For example, earlier on there was no such detail on the chokha like the gazyr. It appeared later when guns started to be widely used. Initially, gazyrs were carried in leather bags attached to a shoulder strap or belt but a lot of different objects were already attached to the belt, a sabre and a gun were worn over the shoulder on belts. Apparently, this is why the gazyrs began to be sewn on the coat on both sides of the chest. This detail helped soldiers to easily store cartridges. In addition, the location it was sewn made it comfortable for the soldier wearing it so during the battle they did not have to look for them and fiddle around for a long time.

By the 18th century, a male costume common for the Caucasus was finally formed which consisted of gazyrs on the chest, beshmet, chokha, burka, bashlyk, papakha, etc.

Types

Aside from the general Caucasian chokha which is worn by many ethnicities in the Caucasus and also by the Kuban Cossacks, there are four types of chokhas that are used primarily among Georgians: the Kartl-Kakheti chokha (Kartli and Kakheti are eastern Georgian provinces), the Khevsur chokha (mainly in the Mtskheta-Mtianeti province of Georgia), the Adjarian chokha (mainly found in western Georgian provinces such as Adjara and Guria, previously also in Lazona), and the general Caucasian chokha.

In Georgia, special decorations, in addition to the chokha, were adopted by the Order of Chokhosani, who represented an elite cadre of generals, war heroes and famous poets.

General Caucasian chokha

This is the most widely used type of chokha in Caucasus, it has black leather belts decorated with silver pieces. It is usually a longer version of the Kartl-kakheti Chokha. The general Caucasian chokha were sewn not only from gray and black fabric, but also from red, blue, green, golden yellow, purple and brown. Generally, the chokha outfit includes a khanjali dagger, a beshmet worn under the chokha, gazyrs (bullet/charge holders), and a bashlyk (a hood, separate from the robe) or a papakha (a tall fur hat).

Azeri from Karabakh. (artist - Gagarin GG)
Circassian from Anapa. (artist - Gagarin GG)
Kabardian. (artist - Gagarin GG)

Kartli-Kakheti chokha

The Kartli-Kakheti version shares similarities with the general Caucasian chokha. In most cases, different decorations fill the bullet spaces. The Kartli-Kakheti chokha is longer than the Khevsur chokha and has triangle-like shapes on the chest, exposing the inner cloth called akhalukhi. It tends to have gazyrs (locally called masri) on both sides of the chest-spaces. The skirt usually has slits on the sides. People wear them without belts. The Kartli-Kakheti chokha has long sleeves and is usually black, dark red or blue.

This is the most popular chokha used in Georgia, often seen in official meeting and musical performance.

Khevsurian chokha

The Khevsur chokha was worn in the Khevsureti province of Georgia in the Greater Caucasus mountains. The Khevsur chokha is considered to be the closest to the medieval version of the chokha. It is mostly short, with trapezoid shapes. The front side of the chokha has rich decorations and slits on the sides, which extend to the waist. The Khevsur chokha has rich decorations made up of crosses and icons.

Adjarian Chokha

The Adjarian chokha is worn in Adjara, Guria regions of Georgia and was worn in historical Lazeti(modern day Turkey), though, the outfit is more similar to the clothing worn by Pontic Greeks. Adjaran national men's costume consists of a shirt (perangi) and trousers cut out in a specific way (dzigva) and sewn from wool fabric or sateen of black colour. Because trousers are folded, wide on top and narrowed down, they were comfortable and were easy to wear in action. The outer garment was zubuni that was tucked into the trousers. Zubunis were winter clothing, warmed with cotton lining and sleeveless vests. The most expensive and visible part is chokha which was tied around with special broad belt with laces or leather belt. Kabalakhi (or bashlyk) is a winter headwear made of thin wool. And, of course, outfit would not be complete without a dagger in sheath, a rifle and bandolier or gazyr. As footwear they used colorful wool knitted socks, pachula (soft leather shoes) and boots tied with belts.

Ethnic groups in the Caucasus

Caucasian
(areal)

Kartvelian

Georgians
- Adjarians
- Dvals
- Gurians
- Imerkhevians
- Ingiloys
- Javakhians
- Kakhetians
- Meskhetians
Colchians/Zans
- Lazs
- Mingrelians
Svans

Northeast
(Caspian)

Avar–Andic	Andis Akhvakhs Avars Bagvalals Botlikhs Chamalals Godoberis Karatas Tindis
Lezgic	Aguls Archin Budukhs Jeks Kryts Lezgins Rutuls Tabasarans Tsakhurs Udis
Nakh	Bats Chechens Kists Aukhs Ingush
Tsezic (Didoic)	Bezhtas Hinukhs Hunzibs Khwarshis Tsez
Others	Dargins (Kaitags) Khinalugs Laks