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Kacper Tekieli (23 November 1984 – 17 May 2023) was a Polish mountain climber and sport climbing instructor with a title given by the Polski Związek Alpinizmu.

Early life

Tekieli was born in Gdańsk, Poland on 23 November 1984. He obtained a master's degree in philosophy, during which he experienced his first fascination with the mountains in the Bieszczady Mountains. In the 2007/2008 season, he was a member of the sports club Otryt Lutowiska and worked in Bacówka near Mała Rawka. After graduating, he spent a few months in the mountains of Alaska, worked in Murowaniec for a year, and then moved to Kraków and took up mountaineering.

Climbing career

In the Tatra Mountains, Tekieli climbed about 300 climbing routes, in particular most of the most important mountain walls, albeit alone. In 2010, as part of the 6th International Elbrus Race, he ran to the top of Mount Elbrus in less than five hours, and two years later, together with Przemysław Pawlikowski, he finished twelfth place in the 9th Butcher Run. In 2010, Tekieli was a participant in the Polish Winter Himalaism 2010–2015 program. As part of this project, he took part in expeditions to Makalu and Broad Peak Central. He walked routes in the Alps (including the north face of the Eiger, Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses, and the north-west face of Monte Civetta in the Dolomites), Colorado (Jeff Lowe's Octopussy, historically the first M8 ice route, and other difficult classic ascents), Nevada and Alaska, and also the fastest diretissima of the northern face of the Mięguszowiecki Szczyt Wielki.

Overtime, Tekieli came to the conclusion that "the essence of mountaineering is to climb a difficult wall in the most favorable conditions", the choice of the most logical solution to a given mountaineering problem. This approach resulted in successes on "chain walks", projects forming several separate climbing routes into a coherent, meaningful whole within a single mountain action. He often made such crossings in the Tatra Mountains alone and without protection, also in winter conditions. On 18 October 2018, he climbed the porch pillar and both pillars of Rumanowy Szczyt in this way in seven and a half hours, and it was a project he had been working on for a long time. On 5 July 2019, together with Łukasz Mirowski, in a record time of 15 hours and 52 minutes, he defeated the Expander by Krzysztof Pankiewicz, a Tatra chain, connecting climbing routes with grade 6-7, on the walls of Mały Młynarz, Kotła Kazalnica Mięguszowiecka, Mnich and Kościelec.

Death

Tekieli set himself the goal of climbing all four-thousanders. On 17 May 2023, as part of his climb to Jungfrau in Switzerland, he died during the descent due to an avalanche. His body was not found until the next morning.

Personal life

Tekiela's first wife was writer Małgorzata Lebda. On September 24, 2020, in Gdańsk, he married cross-country skier Justyna Kowalczyk. On 2 September 2021, their son Hugo was born in Kraków.

References

1. "Kacper Tekieli – Krakowski Festiwal Górski" (in Polish). Archived from the original on 29 September 2020. Retrieved 4 October 2020.
2. ^ "Goście WinterCamp – aktualizacja trwa, zobacz kto odwiedził nas w 2020 roku: | WinterCamp 2.0". wintercamp.pl. Retrieved 4 October 2020.
3. "W labiryncie stopni instruktorskich – stan prawny szkoleń wspinaczkowych w Polsce" (in Polish). Retrieved 7 October 2020.
4. ^ "Kacper Tekieli". Polar Sport.
5. ^ Kacper Tekieli, w: n.m.p. Magazyn Turystyki Górskiej, nr 1(130)/2012, s.15, ISSN 1641-8050
6. "Nie żyje Kacper Tekieli. W Bieszczadach zaczęła się jego miłość do gór. Przyjechał tu 15 lat temu". Retrieved 19 May 2023.
7. ^ "Kacper Tekieli. Bycie w drodze na ośmiotysięcznik". K2 Warszawa,.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: extra punctuation (link)
8. "Pawlikowski Przemysław, Tekieli Kacper – czas – '10:47:44' – 12 miejsce. Komańcza | biegi-gorskie | 8 czerwca 2012". enduhub.com (in Polish). Retrieved 8 October 2020.
9. "Zima w Colorado – Kacper Tekieli" (in Polish). Retrieved 4 October 2020.
10. Damian Granowski. "Łańcuchówka Kacpra Tekieli". Drytooling.com.pl (in Polish). Retrieved 4 October 2020.
11. "Kacper Tekieli o przejściu wymarzonej tatrzańskiej łańcuchówki" (in Polish). Retrieved 4 October 2020.
12. "Kacper Tekieli: trzy tatrzańskie filary w jeden dzień solo!" (in Polish). Retrieved 4 October 2020.
13. "Rekordowy „Expander" – Łukasz Mirowski i Kacper Tekieli w 15:52" (in Polish). Retrieved 4 October 2020.
14. Michał Lao (18 May 2023). "Nie żyje Kacper Tekieli, prywatnie mąż Justyny Kowalczyk". interia.pl. Retrieved 19 May 2023.
15. "Husband of Olympic medalist Justyna Kowalczyk dies in avalanche". May 18, 2023.
16. Czernek, Seweryn (18 May 2023). "Pierwsza żona pożegnała Tekielego. Poruszające słowa pisarki. "Puściliśmy siebie wolno"". gazeta.pl. Retrieved 18 May 2023.
17. "Justyna Kowalczyk wzięła ślub! Pochwaliła się nowym nazwiskiem". sport.pl (in Polish). Retrieved 2020-09-26.
18. "Justyna Kowalczyk urodziła". sport.wprost.pl (in Polish). Retrieved 5 September 2021.

• 1984 births
• 2023 deaths
• Sportspeople from Gdańsk
• Polish mountain climbers
• Mountaineering deaths
• Sport deaths in Switzerland