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Zadar
File:Zadar (grb).gif

Coat of arms of Zadar
Location 44°6′51″N 15°13′40″E / 44.11417°N 15.22778°E / 44.11417; 15.22778
Mayor Dr. Živko Kolega (HDZ)
Surface (km²) ?
Population
(2001)
72,718
Time zone (UTC) UTC+1 Central European Time


For other uses, see Zadar (disambiguation).

Zadar (Template:Lang-la, Template:Lang-it) is a city in Croatia on the Adriatic Sea, with a population of 72,718 (2006). It is the fifth largest Croatian city. 93% of its citizens are ethnic Croats (2001 census).

It is the centre of modern Croatia's Zadar county and the wider northern Dalmatian region. Zadar is located opposite the islands of Ugljan and Pašman, from which it is separated by the narrow Zadar Strait.

The promontory on which the old city stands used to be separated from the mainland by a deep moat which has since become a landfill. The harbor, to the north-east of the town, is safe and spacious.

Zadar is the seat of a Roman Catholic archbishop.

Zadar is located in CroatiaZadarZadarclass=notpageimage| Position of Zadar in Croatia

History

Prehistory

The entire district of present day Zadar was populated since prehistoric times. The earliest evidence of human life comes from the Late Stone Age, while numerous settlements have been dated as early as the Neolithic. Before the Illyrians, the area was inhabited by an ancient Mediterranean people. The name of the settlement - Iader, Iadra or Iadera (also spelled Jader, Jadra or Jadera) - came from their Pre-Indo-European language and could be related to a hydrographical term. It was later used by other civilisations.

Antiquity

In the 9th century BC Iadera was settled by the Liburnians, a tribe of Illyrians, who were known as great sailors and merchants. By the 7th Century BC it had become an important centre for their trading activities with the Greeks and the Romans. Its population at that time is estimated at 2,000. The people of Jader (the Jadasinei) were first mentioned in a Greek inscription (384 BC) as the leading enemies of the Greek colonists in the Adriatic in the period of Greek colonization (6th – 4th centuries BC). In the middle of the 2nd century BC, the Romans began to gradually invade the region. After 59 BC, Iadera became a Roman municipium, and in 48 BC a Roman colony. In the early days of the Roman domination, Iadera was a flourishing Roman colony. It lasted for several hundred years, until waves of marauding tribes battered the region. In the 4th century it had probably between 20 and 25 thousand citizens, a mix of Romans and indigenous Liburnians. In 441 and 447 Dalmatia was ravaged by the Huns.

Middle Age

After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, in 481 Dalmatia was added to the Ostrogothic kingdom, which already included the more northerly parts of Illyricum, i.e. Pannonia and Noricum. In 536 the Byzantine emperor Justinian the Great, started a military campaign to reconquest the territories of the former Western Empire (see Gothic War), Jadera, renamed 'Diadora', became consequently part of the Byzantine Empire.
In 568 Dalmatia was devastated by the Avars invasion, and throughout the century bands of Slavic invaders had been gradually establishing themselves in Illyria, where, unlike the earlier barbarian conquerors, they formed permanent settlements. Between 600 and 650 the main body of the immigrants (Croats and Serbs) occupied Illyria.
In other parts of the Balkan Peninsula these invaders - Serbs, Croats or Bulgars - found little difficulty in expelling or absorbing the native population. In Dalmatia they were baffled when confronted by the powerful maritime city-states, highly civilized, and able to rely on the moral if not the material support of their kinsfolk in Italy. Consequently, while the country districts were settled by the Slavs, the Latin or Italian population moved for safety to Ragusa, Zara and other large towns. Dalmatia was thus divided between two frequently hostile communities..
Other Roman provincials (later called Morlachs), took refuge in the mountains of the interior of Dalmatia, where they preserved their language and nationality for many centuries.
Zara survived to the invasions, due its strategic position and its strong defensive system and it was one Dalmatian cities to mantain intact his Latin culture. Because of the destruction of Dalmatia's capital Salona, Zara assumed its place and became the capital of the Byzantine theme (administrative unit) of Dalmatia, as well as the governor's headquarters. The geographical position of Zara, suffices to explain the relatively small influence exercised by Byzantine culture throughout the six centuries (535-1102) during which (with Dalmatia) was part of the Eastern empire . It maintained a large degree of autonomy throughout this time, in fact like the other Dalmatian towns were giving rise to the a commune, enlivened by the continuity of the trade with the other shore of the Adriatic.
In 806 Dalmatia was added to the Holy Roman empire by Pepin of Italy, but it was given back to Byzantium in 812, under the Peace Treaty of Aachen (Acquisgranum).Meanwhile, the Croatian state was forming inland, and trade and political links with Zara began to develop. Croatian settlers began to arrive, becoming commonplace by the 10th century. In 925, the Duke of Croatian Dalmatia Tomislav, united Croatian Dalmatia and Pannonia establishing the Croatian kingdom.
In 998 Zara was one of the Latin Dalmatian cities which sought Venetian protection against the Narentine, who had settled near the mouth of the Narenta River, starting piracy . In the year 998 a fleet commanded by Doge Pietro Orseolo II set sail. The Doge, after the defeat of the pirates, landed in Curzola and Lagosta. Traù was subjected whereas Ragusa spontaneously paid homage. Pietro then took the title of Dux Dalmatianorum (Duke of the Dalmatians), associating it with his son (though without prejudice to Byzantine suzerainty) .
Meanwhile the Croatian kings had extended their rule over northern and central Dalmatia, exacting tribute from the Italian cities, Traù, Zara and others, and consolidating their own power in the purely Slavonic towns, such as Nona or Biograd (Zaravecchia). The Church was involved in the general confusion; for the synod of Spalato, in 1059, had forbidden the use of any but Greek or Latin liturgies, and so had accentuated the differences between Latin and Slav. In the 10th the true rulers of the town were the Croats and Zara sought independence from Byzantium. In 1069 the city was joined by treaty to Croatia under Croatian King Petar Krešimir IV.

Rivalry of Venice and Hungary in Dalmatia

In 1097 the King Coloman of Hungary, make good Hungary's claim to Croatia by overthrowing King Petar Svacic. By 1102 Coloman controlled the greater part of Dalmatia. In 1105 Zara recognized the rule of the king Coloman, but it was was again a possession of the Republic of Venice in 1011.

Kopnena Vrata (Porta Terraferma).

After this moment Zara, like the other Dalmatian maritime city-states turned to Venice and Hungary for support.
The Venetians, to whom they were already bound by race, language and culture, could afford to concede liberal terms because their own principal aims was not the territorial aggrandizement sought by Hungary, but only such a supremacy as might prevent the development of any dangerous political or commercial competitor on the eastern Adriatic.
Hungary had also its partisans; for in the Dalmatian citystates, there were almost invariably two jealous political factions, each ready to oppose any measure advocated by its antagonist. The origin of this division seems here to have been economic. The farmers and the merchants who traded in the interior naturally favoured Hungary, their most powerful neighbour on land; while the seafaring community looked to Venice as mistress of the Adriatic. In return for protection, the cities often furnished a contingent to the army or navy of their suzerain, and sometimes paid tribute either in money or in kind.
The citizens clung to their municipal privileges, which were reaffirmed after the conquest of Dalmatia in 1102-1105 by Coloman of Hungary. Subject to the royal assent they might elect their own chief magistrate, bishop and judges. Their Roman law remained valid. They were even permitted to conclude separate alliances. No alien, not even a Hungarian, could reside in a city where he was unwelcome; and the man who disliked Hungarian dominion could emigrate with all his household and property. In lieu of tribute, the revenue from customs was in some cases shared equally by the king, chief magistrate, bishop and municipality. These rights and the analogous privileges granted by Venice were, however, too frequently infringed, Hungarian garrisons being quartered on unwilling towns, while Venice interfered with trade, with the appointment of bishops, or with the tenure of communal domains. Consequently the Dalmatians remained loyal only while it suited their interests, and insurrections frequently occurred.
Zara made no exception, and four outbreaks are recorded between 1180 and 1345, although Zara was treated with special consideration by its Venetian masters, who regarded its possession as essential to their maritime ascendancy.
The doubtful allegiance of the Dalmatians tended to protract the struggle between Venice and Hungary, which was further complicated by internal discord due largely to the spread of the Bogomil heresy; and by many outside influences, such as the vague suzerainty still enjoyed by the Eastern emperors during the 12th century; the assistance rendered to Venice by the armies of the Fourth Crusade in 1202; and the Tartar invasion of Dalmatia forty years later (see Traù).
In 1183 Zara rebelled for the first time, asking protection to the Pope and to Hungary, but it was come again under Venetian control in 1202, when it was sieged and conquered with the help of the Crusaders, to pay the impressive debt they contracted with Venetians for the transport to Egypt, during the Fourth Crusade.
In 1243 Bela IV of Hungary, weakened by the Tartars invasion, was obliged to cede Zara to Venice,even if kept his hold upon Spalato and his other Dalmatian possessions. Meanwhile, the Slavs were no longer regarded as a hostile race by the Italian citystates, even if the power of certain Croatian magnates (notably the counts of Bribir), was from time to time supreme in the northern districts (see Croatia-Slavonia).
After a rebellion in 1345-1346, Zara came under the rule of the Hungarian king Louis I (confirmed by the Peace Treaty of Zara in 1358).
In in 1389 Stephen Tvrtko (the founder of the Bosnian kingdom) was able to annex the whole Adriatic littoral between Cattaro and Fiume, with the exception of Zara and his own independent ally Ragusa.
After the death of Louis I of Hungary, Zara recognized the rule of king Sigismund, and after him, that of Ladislas of Naples, who in 1409 sold Zara "his rights" on Dalmatia to Venice for 100,000 ducats.

Republic of Venice (1409-1797)

The Republic of Venice in 1560, with Dalmatia and Zara)

The rapid decline of Bosnia, and of Hungary itself when assailed by the Ottomans, rendered easy the success of Venice; and in 1420 the whole of Dalmatia, except Almissa (which yielded in 1444) and the Republic of Ragusa (which preserved its freedom) either submitted or was conquered. Many cities welcomed the change with its promise of tranquillity.
An interval of peace ensued, but meanwhile the Ottoman advance continued. Constantinople fell in 1453, Serbia in 1459, Bosnia in 1463 and Herzegovina in 1483. Thus the Venetian and Ottoman frontiers met; border wars were incessant.
After the overthrow of Hungary at Mohacs in 1526 the Ottomans were able easily to conquer the greater part of Dalmatia. The peace of 1540 left only the maritime cities to Venice, the interior forming a Turkish province.
The pirate community of the Uskoks had originally been a band of Slavic fugitives from the Turkish invasions; its exploits contributed to a renewal of war between Venice and Turkey (1571-1573).
A fresh war broke out in 1645, lasting intermittently until 1699, when the Treaty of Karlowitz gave the whole of Dalmatia to Venice, including the coast of Herzegovina, but excluding the domains of the Republic of Ragusa and the protecting band of Ottoman territory which surrounded them. After further fighting this delimitation was confirmed in 1718 by the treaty of Passarowitz.
The intellectual life of Dalmatia during the 15th, 16th and 17th centuries reached a higher level than any attained by the purely Slavonic peoples of the Balkan Peninsula.
From 1726-1733 a part of Zara'a territory was settled by Catholic Albanian refugees. That Albanian settlement is called "Arbanasi".

Napoleonic era

Zara and Dalmatia as a part of napoleonic Kingdom of Italy

After the fall of Venice (1797) with the Treaty of Campo Formio, Zara come under Austrian rule. In 1806 it was annexed to the Napoleonic Kingdom of Italy, and in 1809 to the French ruled Illyrian Provinces. In 1813 all Dalmatia was reconquered and annexed by the Austrian Empire. During all this time, it remained the capital of Dalmatia.
During the Napoleonic era, the first Dalmatian newspaper (Il Regio Dalmata - Kraglski Dalmatin), was published in Zara (1806-1810). It was published in Italian and in the local Slavic dialect (the Croatian language was standardized shortly later). It was the first time that a south slavic language was used for a newspaper, so that the "Kraglski Dalmatin" is today remembered as the first Croatian newspaper.

Austrian Empire (1815-1918): the age of nationalism

After 1815 the Kingdom of Dalmatia (including Ragusa) was annexed to the Austrian Empire. The peaceful coexistence between the two historical components of Dalmatia (Italian and Slavic), resisted for the first decades of the Austrian rules. Thus, after the 1848, both the Italian and Slavic nationalism raised.
Having a large Italian majority, the city was one of the main centers of the Italian cultural and national revival in Dalmatia.

Austrian census for the city of Zara :

  • 1890: Serbocroat 2652 (24,6%), Italian 7423 (68,7%), German, others 164, sum 10800
  • 1900: Serbocroat 2551 (20,7%), Italian 9018 (73,3%), German 582, others 150, sum 12300
  • 1910: Serbocroat 3532 (26,3%), Italian 9318 (69,3%), German 397, others 191, sum 13438

Italy

In November 1918 Zara was occupied by the Italian Army, like most of the coastal Dalmatia, under the Treaty of London. Being a city with a large Italian majority, it was annexed to Italy in 1920, under the Treaty of Rapallo (1920).
The Italian comune was quite different from the Austrian one; it included Zara and the localities of Borgo Erizzo (Arbanazi), Cerno (Cino), Boccagnazzo (Bokanjac), Puntamica (Puntamika) and the island Lagosta (Lastovo).
According to the (pre-fascist) census of 1921, this area included 18.623 people (Serbocroatians 2.538).
After the advent of the fascism many Croats left the city because of the policies of Italian government. It has been estimated that, during the time of Italian rule, a total 1600-1800 Yugoslavians left the area annexed by Italy. Their place were mainly taken by ethnic Italians, resettled from within Yugoslavian Dalmatia.

World War II

The Axis powers attacked the Kingdom of Yugoslavia on April 6, 1941. On April 17, the Yugoslavian government surrendered. Zara held a force of 9,000 commanded by General Emilio Gilioli that after bloody fighting on April 15 reached Sibenik and Split. Arriving in Dubrovnik and Mostar on April 17, they met troops that had started out from Albania. All the civilians had been previously evacuated towards Ancona and Pola. The Treaty of Rome in 1941 between the newly-formed Independent State of Croatia (NDH) and Italy handed over a large part of northern Dalmatia to Italy (including Split and Knin).
The city became the center of a new Italian provincia.
After Mussolini was removed from power, the new government of Pietro Badoglio declared an armistice, and on September 8 1943, the Italian army collapsed. The NDH took advantage of this chaotic situation by proclaiming the Treaty of Rome to be void and occupying Italian Dalmatia with German support. However, the Germans entered Zara first, and on September 10 the German 114 Infantry Division took over. This avoided an occupation by Partisans, as happened in Split and Šibenik where several ethnic Italian civilians were executed. The city was prevented from joining the NDH on the grounds that Zara itself was not subject to the conditions of the Treaty of Rome, whether it was void or not. Despite this, the NDH's leader Ante Pavelić designated Zara as the capital of the Sidraga-Ravni Kotari County, although its prefect was prevented from entering the city. Zara remained under local Italian administration.
Zara was bombed by the Allied air forces, with heavy civilian casualties. The greater part of the city was destroyed many civilians escaped to Italy to avoid the bombs.
In 1944 Tito's partisans entered in the town. In the following years nearly all the remaining population left the city, and their place were mainly taken by Croats, resettled from inland. It became a part of Yugoslavia.

File:Coat of Arms Zara.jpg
Coat of Arms of Zadar.

Recent history

Panoramic view of the city.

Since World War II the city has developed as a strong economic and tourist center. During the Croatian War of Independence, the Yugoslav People's Army (JNA) (under Serbian president Slobodan Milošević's control) along with Serb paramilitaries converged on the city and subjected it to artillery bombardment. Along with other Croatian towns in the area, Zadar was shelled for years, damaging buildings and homes as well as UNESCO protected buildings. Attacks in nearby cities and villages occurred, the most brutal being the Škabrnja massacre, where 86 people were murdered. Connections with the capital Zagreb were severed for over a year, the only link between the north and south of the country was via the island of Pag. The siege of the city lasted from 1991 until January 1993 when Zadar and the surrounding area came under the control of Croatian forces in Operation Maslenica. Attacks on the city continued until the end of the war in 1995.

Main sights

Architecture

Zadar gained its urban structure in Roman times; during the time of Julius Caesar and Emperor Augustus, the town was fortified and the city walls with towers and gates were built. On the western side of the town were the forum, the basilica and the temple, while outside the town were the amphitheatre and cemeteries. The aqueduct which was supplying the town with water has been partly preserved. Inside the ancient town, a medieval town had developed, when a series of churches and monasteries had been built.

During the Middle Ages, Zadar had fully gained its urban aspect, which has been maintained until today. In the 16th century, Venice fortified the town with a new system of defensive walls on the side facing land. In the first half of the 16th century, architectural building in the Renaissance style was continued. Defence trenches were built also (Foša), which were completely buried during the Italian rule. In 1873 under Austrian rule the ramparts of Zadar were converted from fortifications into elevated promenades commanding extensive views to seaward and to landward, wall lines thus being preserved ; of its four old gates one, the Porta Marina, incorporates the relics of a Roman arch, and another, the Porta di Terraferma, was designed in the 16th century by the Veronese artist Sanmichele. In the bombardments during the Second World War, entire blocks were destroyed, but some of the structures were preserved.

St. Donatus' Church, a pre-Romanesque church from the 9th century.
St. Mary's Church, located in the old city across St. Donatus' Church.

Most important landmarks:

  • Roman Forum - the largest on the eastern side of the Adriatic, founded by the first Roman Emperor Augustus, to which two stone inscriptions about its completion dating from the 3rd century testify.
  • Most of the Roman remains were used in the construction of the fortifications, but two squares are embellished with lofty marble columns; a Roman tower stands on the east side of the town; and some remains of a Roman aqueduct may be seen outside the ramparts.

The chief interest of Zadar lies in its churches.

  • St. Donatus' Church - the monumental round building in the pre Romanesque style, traditionally but erroneously said to have been erected on the site of a temple of Juno, from the 9th century is the most important structure of its period preserved in Dalmatia; the massive dome of the rotunda is surrounded by a vaulted gallery in two stories which also extends around the three apses to the east. The church treasury contains some of the finest Dalmatian metal-work; notably the silver ark or reliquary of St Simeon (1380), and the pastoral staff of Bishop Valaresso (1460).
  • St. Anastasia's Cathedral (Croatian: Sv. Stošija), basilica in Romanesque style built in the 12th to 13th century (high Romanesque style), the largest cathedral in Dalmatia.
  • The churches of St. Chrysogonus and St. Simeon are also in the Romanesque style.
  • St. Krševan's Church - monumental Romanesque church of very fine proportions and refined Romanesque ornaments.
  • St. Elijah's Church (Croatian: Sv. Ilija)
  • St. Francis' Church, gothic styled church, site of the signing of the Zadar Peace Treaty 1358
  • Five Wells Square
  • St. Mary's Church which retains a fine Romanesque campanile of 1105 belongs to a Benedictine Convent founded in 1066 by a noblewoman of Zadar by the name of Cika with The Permanent Ecclesiastical Art Exhibition "The Gold and Silver of Zadar"

Other architectual acivments:

  • Citadel - built in 1409, southwest of the Land gate, it has remained the same to this day.
  • The Land Gate - built according to a layout of the Venetian architect Michele Sanmicheli in 1543
  • The unique sea organ
  • The Great Arsenal
  • Among the other chief buildings are the Loggia del Comune, rebuilt in 1565, and containing a public library; the old palace of the priors, now the governor's residence; and the episcopal palaces.

Culture

The first university of Zadar is mentioned in 1396 and it was a part of the Dominican monastery. It closed in 1807.

Zadar was, along with Dubrovnik, one of the centres of development of Croatian literature.

The 15th and the 16th centuries were marked by important activities of Croatian writers writing in the national language: Jerolim Vidolić, Petar Zoranić (who wrote first Croatian novel, Mountains), Brne Krnarutić, Juraj Barakovic, Šime Budinić.

During the French rule (1806–1810), the first Dalmatian newspaper Il Regio Dalmata-Kraglski Dalmatin was published in Zadar. It was printed in Italian and Croatian; this last used for the first time in a newspaper.

File:Regio Dalmata.jpg
Il Regio Dalmata-Kraglski Dalmatin. Printed Printed in Italian and Croatian language.

In the second half of the 19th century, Zadar was a centre of the movement for the cultural and national revivals in Dalmatia (Italian and Croatian).

Today Zadar's cultural institutions include:

Government

The administrative area of the City of Zadar includes the nearby villages of Babindub, Crno, Kožino and Petrčane, as well as the islands of Ist, , Molat, Olib, Premuda, Rava and Silba. Total City area, including the islands, covers 194 km2.

Zadar is divided into 21 local committees: Arbanasi, Bili Brig, Bokanjac, Brodarica, Crvene Kuće, Diklo, Dračevac, Gaženica, Jazine I, Jazine II, Maslina, Novi Bokanjac, Poluotok, Ploča, Puntamika, Ričina, Smiljevac, Stanovi, Vidikovac, Višnjik, Voštarnica.

Economy

Major industries include tourism, traffic, seaborne trade, agriculture, fishing and fish farming activities, metal manufacturing and mechanical engineering industry, chemicals and non-metal industry and banking. The headquarters of the following companies are located in Zadar:

The farmland just northeast of Zadar, Ravni Kotari, is a well known source of marasca cherries. Distilleries in Zadar have produced Maraschino since the 16th century.

Science

In 1998, Zadar hosted the Central European Olympiad in Informatics (CEOI).

Transportation

In the 20th century, roads became more important than sea routes, but Zadar remained an important traffic point. The main road along the Adriatic passes through the city. In the immediate vicinity, there is the Zagreb-Split highway, finished in 2005. Since 1966, a railroad has linked it with Knin, where it joins the main railroad from Zagreb to Split. It has an international sea line to Ancona in Italy. The Zadar Airport is located in Zemunik, around 14 km to the east. It is planned to build a semi-highway from the port of Gaženica in Zadar to the highway hub of Zemunik. Another plan is the "Adriatic railroad" linking Gospić with Zadar and Split.

Sports

The local basketball club is KK Zadar, and the football club NK Zadar. The bowling club Kuglački klub Zadar is also very successful.

Twinning

Zadar maintains cultural, economic and educational ties with:

Famous people from Zadar

From the foundation to 1850

1800 - 1950

1950 - present days


  • Krist Novoselic- Nirvana bassist, went to school in Zadar
  • Mark Viduka- Australian football international (father from Zadar)
  • David Zdrilic- Australian football international (father from Zadar)
  • Teddy Lučić- Swedish football international (father from Zadar)
  • Zlatan Ibrahimović- Swedish football international (mother from Zadar)
  • Jason Čulina- Australian football international (father from Zadar)
  • Ivica Jerak - Former U.S. Army Delta Force Operator, killed in Iraq in 2005.
  • Agim Çeku- Kosovo prime minister (lived in Zadar for long time period)

See also

Sources

History about world

References

  1. http://www.dzs.hr/default.htm
  2. ^ Encyclopedia Britannica 1911; Illyria
  3. ^ Encyclopedia Britannica 1911; Dalmatia
  4. Encyclopedia Britannica 1911; Zara
  5. http://www.britannica.com/eb/article-9024807/Coloman www.britannica.com "Coloman"
  6. http://www.1911encyclopedia.org/Bela_IV Encyclopedia Britannica 1911; Bela IV
  7. Dalmatia under French and Austria
  8. Austrian census "According to the spoken language"
  9. Olinto Mileta Mattiuz. "Popolazioni dell'Istria, Fiume, Zara e Dalmazia (1850-2002). Ipotesi di quantificazione demografica" Associazione Amici e Discendenti degli Esuli Giuliani Istriani Fiumani e Dalmati, 2005

External links


Gallery

  • St. Donat's Church and Roman Forum St. Donat's Church and Roman Forum
  • Roman Forum in Zadar Roman Forum in Zadar
  • St. Anastasia Cathedral/sv. Stošija in Zadar St. Anastasia Cathedral/sv. Stošija in Zadar
  • St. Mary's Church St. Mary's Church
  • St. Simeon's Church St. Simeon's Church
  • St. Simeon/sv. Šimun St. Simeon/sv. Šimun
  • Morska vrata/Porta marina Morska vrata/Porta marina
  • University of Zadar (1396) University of Zadar (1396)
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