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The áo gấm (Vietnamese: [ʔǎːw ɣə̌m], Hán-Nôm: 襖錦) is a modified áo dài made with thicker fabric, and is a traditional brocade tunic for men. It is more elaborate than the formal "áo the", a similar men's tunic. These tunics are often worn at ceremonies, birthdays, festivals and other circumstances where the women wear an expensive áo dài. The word gấm on its own means brocade (錦) hence "brocade tunic".
The elegance of the brocade tunic is proverbial, as per the Vietnamese saying áo gấm đi đêm ("a brocade tunic going in the dark"), meaning that someone can display their wealth or talents but in a too late time or where they cannot be seen.
References
- Howard, Michael C. (2016). Textiles and Clothing of Việt Nam: A History. McFarland. p. 72. ISBN 9781476624402.
- Vietnamese traditional “Ao Dai” enchants Seoul audience, "On Tet and other occasions, Vietnamese men may wear an áo gấm (brocade robe), a version of the ao dai made of thicker fabric.", Hanoi Times, Sep 01, 2017
- Cứ mãi phận "áo gấm đi đêm"?
- Văn Bình Phạm Thành ngữ tiếng Việt - 2003 "áo gấm đi đêm (To go out in darkness in a brocade robe) Meaning: To show one's richness but not in time so nobody knows. Example: ..."
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