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Tapis

Tapis being sold at the store in Indonesia
Type	Art Fabric
Material	silk, cotton, gold, silver
Place of origin	Lampung, Indonesia

Tapis (Rejang: ꤳꤶꥇꤼ꥓; Indonesian: kain tapis or simply tapis) is a traditional Tenun style and also refers to resulting cloth that originated from Lampung, Indonesia. It consists of a striped, naturally-coloured cloth embroidered with warped and couched gold thread. Traditionally using floral motifs, it has numerous variations. It is generally worn ceremonially, although it can be used as a decoration. It is considered one of the symbols of Lampung and Lampungese.

Production

Tapis is generally made by Lampungese women. It consists of a woven, naturally coloured fabric with warped gold and silk embroidery. The gold thread, shaped in stripes, chevrons, and checks, contrasts the colours of the fabric. Tapis can also be decorated with beads, mica chips, or old colonial coins.

The gold embroidery is affixed using couching techniques, minimalizing waste. The gold thread is attached in sections, then couched with a different, less expensive, thread at turns. This ensures that none of the gold thread is used in a non-visible area.

Traditionally, tapis has floral motifs. However, modern tapis may also be based on the weaver's own design and include non-floral motifs, such as Arabic calligraphy. Other designs may include snakes, ships, and mythical creatures. Some tapis, called tapis tua (old tapis), are covered entirely in golden embroidery.

Although generally produced by Lampungese home industries, tapis is also produced in other areas, including Kendal, Central Java and Pisang Island.

Use

Traditionally, tapis is worn as a sarong for weddings, Eid ul-Fitr celebrations, and welcoming ceremonies. However, tapis can also be used as a wall decoration. When worn, it forms a cylinder around the wearer's legs.

Reception

Tapis has come to be seen as a symbol of Lampung. Some people describes tapis as having "exceptional beauty and sophistication", while some describes viewing tapis as "like seeing countless possibilities in art and life portrayed in cloth".

The price of tapis reflects its age. Generally, the older a tapis the more it costs. Antique tapis are also collectors items, collected by both Indonesians and foreigners.

Gallery

• Tapis of Kauer people, Lampung at the Textile Museum of Canada
• Tapis from Lampung c. 18th century (or earlier) at the collection of Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
• A black and red tapis

See also

• Ulos
• Ikat
• Batik
• Songket

References

Footnotes

1. Totton, Mary Louise (2009). Wearing Wealth and Styling Identity: Tapis from Lampung, South Sumatra, Indonesia. Hanover, New Hampshire, United States of America: Hood Museum of Art, Dartmouth College. ISBN 978-0944722374.
2. Mary, Louise Totton (1994). "A Red Ikat Tapis: Ships and the Lands Beyond". Bulletin of the Detroit Institute of Arts. 68 (3): 4–15. doi:10.1086/DIA41504888. S2CID 187976059. Retrieved 15 March 2021.
3. Richter, Anne (1994). "Arts and crafts of Indonesia". Chronicle Books LLC.
4. Wardwell, Anne E (1985). "Tapis: A Rare Sarong from South Sumatra". The Bulletin of the Cleveland Museum of Art. 72 (5).
5. Totton, Mary Louise (2009). Wearing Wealth and Styling Identity: Tapis from Lampung, South Sumatra, Indonesia. Hanover, New Hampshire, United States of America: Hood Museum of Art, Dartmouth College. ISBN 978-0944722374.
6. Mary, Louise Totton (1994). "A Red Ikat Tapis: Ships and the Lands Beyond". Bulletin of the Detroit Institute of Arts. 68 (3): 4–15. doi:10.1086/DIA41504888. S2CID 187976059. Retrieved 15 March 2021.
7. Richter, Anne (1994). "Arts and crafts of Indonesia". Chronicle Books LLC.
8. Wardwell, Anne E (1985). "Tapis: A Rare Sarong from South Sumatra". The Bulletin of the Cleveland Museum of Art. 72 (5).
9. Subagio, Puji Yosep (1999). "North Coast Java Batik" (PDF). Tokyo University. Retrieved 15 March 2021.
10. ^ Oyos Saroso (22 January 2007). "Rusiana Makki, empowering women through 'tapis'". The Jakarta Post. Archived from the original on 24 March 2012. Retrieved 6 August 2011.
11. ^ Maxwell 2003, pp. 112–113
12. Rodgers, Summerfield & Summerfield 2007, p. 36
13. ^ Nia S. Kim (10 June 2001). "Lampung offers a whole lot more besides jungle adventures". The Jakarta Post. Archived from the original on 12 October 2012. Retrieved 6 August 2011.
14. ^ Maxwell 2003, p. 316
15. ^ Forshee 2006, p. 144
16. (Maxwell 2003, p. 184)
17. Backshall 2003, p. 502
18. Maxwell 2003, p. 319
19. Stevie Emilia (10 April 2011). "Journeying through textile traditions". The Jakarta Post. Retrieved 6 August 2011.

Bibliography

• Backshall, Stephen (2003). The Rough Guide to Indonesia. Rough Guides. p. 565. ISBN 1-85828-991-2. Retrieved 20 December 2010.
• Forshee, Jill (2006). Culture and Customs of Indonesia. Westport, Connecticut: Greenwood Press. ISBN 978-0-313-33339-2.
• Maxwell, Robyn J. (2003). Textiles of Southeast Asia : Tradition, Trade, and Transformation. Hong Kong: Periplus. ISBN 978-0-7946-0104-1.
• Rodgers, Susan; Summerfield, Anne; Summerfield, John (2007). Gold Cloths of Sumatra : Indonesia's Songkets from Ceremony to Commodity. Leiden: KITLV Press. ISBN 978-90-6718-312-3.

v t e Indonesian clothing
Clothing identified with Indonesian culture and still worn today
Textiles and weaving	Geringsing Kain Bali Kain Sumba Kain kulit kayu Lurik Songket Tapis Tenun Ulos
Dyeing	Batik Ikat Jumputan Prada
Clothing	Angkin Baju Bodo Baju kain rumput Baju Koko Baju Kurung Baju Melayu Beskap Cawat Kain jarik Kain panjang Kain samping Kebaya Kemben Kemeja Batik Koje Koteka Rok Rumbia Sarung Selendang Surjan Uis Gara
Headgear	Beluko Blangkon Caping Iket Jamang Hijab Kerudung Kopiah Konde or sanggul (hair extension) Makuta Peci Siger Suntiang Tanjak (destar) Tengkuluk Tudung Udeng
Jewelry and ornaments	Anting-anting Cincin Gelang Giwang Gesper Kembang goyang (cunduk mentul) Kelat bahu Kerongsang Pending Sabuk Subang Sumping Tusuk konde Upawita
Armour	Baju Empurau Baju Lamina Baju Rantai Baru Lema'a Baru Öröba Karambalangan Kawaca Siping-siping
Footwear	Bakiak (kelom) Sandals Selop Sepatu

v t e Weaving
Weaves	Basketweave Charvet Coverlet Dobby Double weave Even-weave Gabardine Lampas Leno weave Oxford Pile weave Piqué Plain weave Satin Shot Swivel Twill
Components	Textiles Warp and weft Yarn
Tools and techniques	Barber-Colman knotter Beamer Braid Chilkat weaving Fingerweaving Flying shuttle Heddle Ikat Inkle weaving Kasuri Loom Navajo weaving Pibiones Reed Salish weaving Shed Shuttle Sizing Sizing machine Tablet weaving Talim Tāniko Tapestry Temple Wattle Wicker Resin
Types of looms	Air-jet loom Dandy loom Dobby loom Hattersley loom Horrocks loom Jacquard loom Lancashire loom Northrop loom Power loom Rapier loom Roberts loom Warp-weighted loom
Weavers	Acesas Anni Albers Otti Berger Micheline Beauchemin Johanna Brunsson Ada Dietz Thomas Ferguson & Co Ltd Elisabeth Forsell Dorothy Liebes Ethel Mairet Maria Elisabet Öberg Lilly Reich Margaretha Reichardt John Rylands Brigitta Scherzenfeldt Clara Sherman Gunta Stölzl Judocus de Vos Margaretha Zetterberg
Employment practices	More looms Kissing the shuttle Piece-rate list
Mills	Bancroft Shed Queen Street Mill

• Indonesian clothing
• Textile industry of Indonesia