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{{Short description|Capital city of South Governorate, Lebanon}} | |||
{{other uses of}} | |||
{{Other uses}} | |||
{{Use dmy dates|date=September 2013}} | |||
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{{More citations needed|date=December 2023}} | ||
{{Use dmy dates|date=November 2020}} | |||
{{Coord|33|33|38|N|35|23|53|E|type:city_scale:40000|display=title}} | |||
{{Infobox settlement | {{Infobox settlement | ||
<!--See the Table at Infobox Settlement for all fields and descriptions of usage--> | <!--See the Table at Infobox Settlement for all fields and descriptions of usage--> | ||
<!-- Basic info ----------------> | <!-- Basic info ----------------> | ||
|official_name = |
| official_name = Sidon | ||
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| native_name = صيدا | ||
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| native_name_lang = ar | ||
| other_name = | |||
<!-- for cities whose native name is not in English --> | |||
| settlement_type = ] | |||
|nickname = | |||
| image_skyline = File:View from Sidon's Sea Castle, Sidon, Lebanon.jpg | |||
|settlement_type = <!--For Town or Village (Leave blank for the default City)--> | |||
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| imagesize = 275px | ||
| image_caption = Sidon's Sea Castle | |||
<!-- images and maps -----------> | |||
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| image_flag = | ||
| pushpin_map = Lebanon#West Asia <!-- the name of a location map as per http://en.wikipedia.org/Template:Location_map --> | |||
|imagesize = 300px | |||
| pushpin_label_position = bottom | |||
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| pushpin_mapsize = 275 | ||
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| pushpin_relief = yes | ||
| pushpin_map_caption = Location in Lebanon | |||
|image_seal = | |||
| coordinates = {{coord|33|33|38|N|35|22|33|E|region:LB-JA_type:city(80,000)|display=inline,title}} | |||
|seal_size = | |||
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| subdivision_type = Country | ||
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| subdivision_name = ] | ||
| subdivision_type1 = ] | |||
|image_blank_emblem = | |||
| subdivision_name1 = ] | |||
|blank_emblem_type = | |||
| subdivision_type2 = ] | |||
|blank_emblem_size = | |||
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| subdivision_name2 = ] | ||
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| established_title = Settled | ||
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| established_date = ] | ||
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| leader_title = | ||
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| leader_name = | ||
|map_caption1 = | |||
|image_dot_map = | |||
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|dot_x = |dot_y = | |||
|pushpin_map = Lebanon <!-- the name of a location map as per http://en.wikipedia.org/Template:Location_map --> | |||
|pushpin_label_position =bottom | |||
|pushpin_mapsize =300 | |||
|pushpin_map_caption =Location in Lebanon | |||
<!-- Location ------------------> | |||
|coordinates_region = LB | |||
|subdivision_type = Country | |||
|subdivision_name = {{Flag|Lebanon}} | |||
|subdivision_type1 = ] | |||
|subdivision_name1 = ] | |||
|subdivision_type2 = ] | |||
|subdivision_name2 = ] | |||
|subdivision_type3 = | |||
|subdivision_name3 = | |||
|subdivision_type4 = | |||
|subdivision_name4 = | |||
<!-- Politics -----------------> | |||
|government_footnotes = | |||
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|leader_title = | |||
|leader_name = | |||
|leader_title1 = <!-- for places with, say, both a mayor and a city manager --> | |||
|leader_name1 = | |||
|leader_title2 = | |||
|leader_name2 = | |||
|leader_title3 = | |||
|leader_name3 = | |||
|leader_title4 = | |||
|leader_name4 = | |||
|established_title = <!-- Settled --> | |||
|established_date = | |||
|established_title2 = <!-- Incorporated (town) --> | |||
|established_date2 = | |||
|established_title3 = <!-- Incorporated (city) --> | |||
|established_date3 = | |||
<!-- Area ---------------------> | <!-- Area ---------------------> | ||
| unit_pref = Imperial <!--Enter: Imperial, if Imperial (metric) is desired--> | |||
|area_magnitude = | |||
| area_total_km2 = 7.82 | |||
|unit_pref =Imperial <!--Enter: Imperial, if Imperial (metric) is desired--> | |||
| area_land_km2 = <!--See table @ Template:Infobox Settlement for details on automatic unit conversion--> | |||
|area_footnotes = | |||
| area_metro_km2 = 25 | |||
|area_total_km2 = <!-- ALL fields dealing with a measurements are subject to automatic unit conversion--> 7.86 | |||
| elevation_footnotes = <!--for references: use<ref> </ref> tags--> | |||
|area_land_km2 = <!--See table @ Template:Infobox Settlement for details on automatic unit conversion--> | |||
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| elevation_m = | ||
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| population_footnotes = | ||
| population_total = ~80000 | |||
<!-- Population -----------------------> | |||
| population_density_km2 = | |||
|population_as_of 2004 = | |||
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| population_metro = ~266,000 | ||
|population_note = | |||
|population_total = 80000 | |||
|population_density_km2 = | |||
|population_density_sq_mi = | |||
|population_metro = 266,000 | |||
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|population_blank1_title =Ethnicities | |||
|population_blank1 = | |||
|population_blank2_title =Religions | |||
|population_blank2 = | |||
|population_density_blank1_km2 = | |||
|population_density_blank1_sq_mi = | |||
<!-- General information ---------------> | <!-- General information ---------------> | ||
|timezone = ] | | timezone = ] | ||
|utc_offset = +2 | | utc_offset = +2 | ||
|timezone_DST = |
| timezone_DST = ] | ||
|utc_offset_DST = | | utc_offset_DST = +3 | ||
|latd=33|latm=33|lats=38|latNS=N | |||
|longd=35|longm=23|longs=53|longEW=E | |||
|elevation_footnotes = <!--for references: use<ref> </ref> tags--> | |||
|elevation_m = | |||
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<!-- Area/postal codes & others --------> | <!-- Area/postal codes & others --------> | ||
|postal_code_type |
| postal_code_type = <!-- enter ZIP code, Postcode, Post code, Postal code... --> | ||
|postal_code = | | postal_code = 1600 | ||
|area_code = | | area_code = 07 | ||
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| flag_size = 200 | ||
|blank_info = | |||
|blank1_name = | |||
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|footnotes = | |||
}} | }} | ||
'''Sidon |
'''Sidon''' ({{IPAc-en|'|s|ai|d|@n}} {{respell|SY|dən}}) or '''Saida''' ({{IPAc-en|'|s|ai|d|@|,_|'|s|A:|I|d|@}} {{respell|SY|də|,_|SAH|id|ə}}; {{langx|ar|صيدا|Ṣaydā}}) is the third-largest city in ]. It is located on the ] coast in the ], of which it is the capital. ], to the south, and the Lebanese capital of ], to the north, are both about {{convert|40|km|0|abbr=off}} away. Sidon has a population of about 80,000 within the ], while its ] has more than a quarter-million inhabitants. | ||
==Etymology== | |||
{{hiero|1=ḏjdwnꜣ<ref name = Gauthier113/><ref name = Budge1064/> |2=<hiero>I10:Z4-D46:V1-N35:G1-T14-N25</hiero>|era=nk|align=left}} | |||
{{hiero|1=ḏddwnꜣ<ref name = Gauthier138/><ref name = Budge1065/> |2=<hiero>I10:D46-D46:V1-N35:G1-T14-N25:O49</hiero>|era=default|align=left}} | |||
The ] name {{transl|phn|Ṣīdūn}} ({{lang|phn|𐤑𐤃𐤍}}, {{sc|ṣdn}}) probably meant "fishery" or "fishing town".<ref>{{cite book|author=Frederick Carl Eiselen|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Hhk5AQAAIAAJ&q=sidon+meaning|title=Sidon: A Study in Oriental History, Volume 4|publisher=Columbia University Press|year=1907|page=12|isbn=9780231928007|access-date=28 September 2020|archive-date=17 September 2023|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230917165001/https://books.google.com/books?id=Hhk5AQAAIAAJ&q=sidon+meaning|url-status=live}}</ref> It is mentioned in ] as ''ḏjdwnꜣ''.<ref name= Gauthier113>{{cite book |last1=Gauthier |first1=Henri |title=Dictionnaire des Noms Géographiques Contenus dans les Textes Hiéroglyphiques Vol. 6 |date=1929 |page= |url=https://archive.org/details/Gauthier1929}}</ref><ref name= Budge1064>{{cite book |last1=Wallis Budge |first1=E. A. |title=An Egyptian hieroglyphic dictionary: with an index of English words, king list and geological list with indexes, list of hieroglyphic characters, coptic and semitic alphabets, etc. Vol II |date=1920 |publisher=] |page= |url=https://archive.org/details/egyptianhierogly02budguoft}}</ref><ref name= Gauthier138>{{cite book |last1=Gauthier |first1=Henri |title=Dictionnaire des Noms Géographiques Contenus dans les Textes Hiéroglyphiques Vol. 6 |date=1929 |page= |url=https://archive.org/details/Gauthier1929}}</ref><ref name = Budge1065>{{cite book |last1=Wallis Budge |first1=E. A. |title=An Egyptian hieroglyphic dictionary: with an index of English words, king list and geological list with indexes, list of hieroglyphic characters, coptic and semitic alphabets, etc. Vol II |date=1920 |publisher=] |page= |url=https://archive.org/details/egyptianhierogly02budguoft}}</ref> It appears in ] as {{transl|he|Ṣīḏōn}} ({{langx|he|צִידוֹן}}) and in ] as {{transl|syc|Ṣidon}} ({{lang|syc|ܨܝܕܘܢ}}). This was ] as {{transl|grc|Sidṓn}} ({{langx|grc|Σιδών}}), which was ] as {{lang|la|Sidon}} and entered English in this form. The name appears in ] as {{transl|ar|Ṣaydūn}} ({{lang|ar|صَيْدونْ}}){{citation needed|date=April 2023}} and in ] as {{transl|ar|Ṣaydā}} ({{lang|ar|صَيْدَا}}). | |||
As a ], it was notionally refounded and given the formal name {{lang|la|Colonia Aurelia Pia Sidon}} to honour ]. | |||
During the ], Sidon was known in Latin as {{lang|la|Sagittus}} and in ] as {{lang|fro|Saete}}, {{lang|fro|Sayette}} or {{lang|fro|Sagette}}. | |||
In the ], Sidon was the first-born son of ], who was a son of ], thereby making Sidon a great-grandson of ]. | |||
==History== | ==History== | ||
{{Main|History of Sidon}} | |||
] found in Sidon gives testimony of the Aecheminid rule and influence. Marble, 5th century BC]] | |||
Sidon (whose name in classical Arabic is: صَيْدونْ (Saydoon)) has been inhabited since very early in prehistory. The archaeological site of Sidon II shows a ] ] dating to the ], whilst finds at Sidon III include a ] assemblage suggested to date just prior to the invention of ].<ref name="CopelandWescombe1965"/> It was one of the most important ]n cities, and may have been the oldest. From here, and other ports, a great Mediterranean commercial empire was founded. ] praised the skill of its craftsmen in producing glass, purple dyes, and its women's skill at the art of embroidery. It was also from here that a colonizing party went to found the city of ]. Tyre also grew into a great city, and in subsequent years there was competition between the two, each claiming to be the metropolis ('Mother City') of ]. Glass manufacturing, Sidon's most important enterprise in the Phoenician era, was conducted on a vast scale, and the production of purple dye was almost as important. The small shell of the ] was broken in order to extract the pigment that was so rare it became the mark of royalty. | |||
In antiquity, Sidon held prominence as a significant ]n city. Nestled on a mainland promontory and boasting two harbors.<ref name=":02" /> Throughout ancient history, Sidon had many conquerors: ], ], ], ], ], and finally ]. Under Persian rule, it eclipsed ] to become the paramount city in Phoenicia.<ref name=":02" /> In the New Testament era, ] visited Sidon. Both ] and ] are said to have visited it, too (see '']'' below). The city was eventually conquered by the ] and then by the ].<ref>{{Cite journal |last1=Gwiazda |first1=Mariusz |last2=Piątkowska-Małecka |first2=Joanna |last3=Wicenciak |first3=Urszula |last4=Makowski |first4=Piotr |last5=Barański |first5=Tomasz |date=2021-05-01 |title=The Sidon's/Ṣaydā Northern Hinterland during the Early Byzantine–Early Islamic Transition |url=https://www.journals.uchicago.edu/doi/10.1086/712931 |journal=Bulletin of the American Schools of Oriental Research |language=en |volume=385 |pages=171–200 |doi=10.1086/712931 |issn=0003-097X}}</ref><ref name=":4">{{Cite journal |last1=Breen |first1=Colin |last2=Forsythe |first2=Wes |last3=O’Connor |first3=Marianne |last4=Westley |first4=Kieran |date=2014 |title=The Mamluk/ Ottoman-period Maritime Cultural Landscape of Lebanon |url=https://honorfrostfoundation.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Lebanon-Report-University-of-Ulster-May-2014.pdf |journal=Centre for Maritime Archaeology |pages=20–36}}</ref> | |||
In AD 1855, the sarcophagus of King ] II was discovered. From a Phoenician inscription on its lid, it appears that he was a "king of the Sidonians," probably in the 5th century BC, and that his mother was a priestess of ], "the goddess of the Sidonians." | |||
<ref>Thomas Kelly, Herodotus and the Chronology of the Kings of Sidon, ], no. 268, pp. 39–56, 1987</ref> | |||
In this inscription the gods ] and ] Sidon 'Lord of Sidon' (who may or may not be the same) are mentioned as chief gods of the Sidonians. ‘Ashtart is entitled ''‘Ashtart-Shem-Ba‘al'' '‘Ashtart the name of the Lord', a title also found in an ] text. | |||
===Prehistory=== | |||
], built by the ] in AD 1228]] | |||
Sidon has been inhabited since very early in ]. The archaeological site of Sidon II shows a ] ] dating to the ], whilst finds at Sidon III include a ] assemblage suggested to date just prior to the invention of ].<ref name= CW/> | |||
===Late Bronze=== | |||
In the years before Christianity, Sidon had many conquerors: ]ns, ]ians, ]ians, ], and finally ]. ] visited Sidon. Both Jesus and ] are said to have visited it too (see '']'' below). The city was eventually conquered by the Arabs and then by the Ottoman Turks. | |||
Around 1350 BC, Sidon was part of the ] and ruled by ]. During the Amarna Period, Egypt went into decline, leading to uprising and turmoil in the Levant. There was rivalry between Lebanese coastal city-states fighting for dominance, with ] in the south, and ] in the north. Byblos became significantly weakened as the dominant city on the Lebanese coast. Further north, the Akkar Plain rebelled and became the ] with Hittite support. The Mitanni Empire, an ally of the Egyptians, had dominated Syria but now fell apart due to the military campaigns of ]. Tutankhamun and his general Horemheb scrambled to keep Egyptian control over southern Levant, as the Hittites became overlords in the north. | |||
The oldest testimony documenting words in the ] of Sidon, is also from this period. The Book of Deuteronomy (3, 9) reads: "the Sidonians call Hermon Sirion". In other words: ] was called "Sirion", in (the Phoenician language of) Sidon. | |||
Like other Phoenician city-states, Sidon suffered from a succession of conquerors. At the end of the ] era in 351 BC, it was invaded by the emperor ] and then by ] in 333 BC when the ] era of Sidon began. Under the successors of Alexander, it enjoyed relative autonomy and organized games and competitions in which the greatest athletes of the region participated. In the Necropolis of Sidon, important finds such as the ], the Lycian tomb and the Sarcophagus of the Crying Women were discovered, which are now on display at the ] of ].<ref name="Turkey">{{cite web |url=http://travel.nytimes.com/travel/guides/europe/turkey/istanbul/attraction-detail.html?vid=1154654614207 |title=Istanbul Archaeology Museum |accessdate=10 May 2008 |work=The New York Times}}</ref> | |||
===Iron Age=== | |||
When Sidon fell under Roman domination, it continued to mint its own silver coins. The Romans also built a theater and other major monuments in the city. In the reign of ] a ] was established there, and was given the name of Colonia Aurelia Pia Sidon. During the ] period, when the ] destroyed most of the cities of ], ] took refuge in Sidon. The town continued quietly for the next century, until it was ] by the ] in AD 636. | |||
{{Main|Phoenicia|Canaan|King of Sidon}} | |||
] found in Sidon gives testimony of the ] rule and influence. Marble, 5th century BC]] | |||
Sidon was one of the most important ]n cities, and it may have been the oldest. From there and other ports, a great Mediterranean commercial empire was founded. ] praised the skill of its craftsmen in producing glass, purple dyes, and its women's skill at the art of embroidery. It was also from here that a colonising party went to found the city of ]. Tyre also grew into a great city, and in subsequent years there was competition between the two, each claiming to be the metropolis ('Mother City') of ]. | |||
During the Phoenician era, Sidon thrived on two pivotal industries: glass manufacturing and ] production. The city's glass production operated on an extensive scale, while the manufacturing of purple dye held nearly equal importance.<ref name=":1">{{cite book |last=Jacoby |first=David |title=Trade, Commodities, and Shipping in the Medieval Mediterranean |year=1997 |at=pp. 455 ff and notes – |article=Silk in Western Byzantium before the Fourth Crusade}}</ref><ref name=":2">{{cite book |title=The Oxford Dictionary of Byzantium |publisher=Oxford University Press |year=1991 |isbn=0-195-04652-8 |location=New York, NY & Oxford, UK |page=1701 |article=Porphyrogennetos}}</ref> The magnitude of Sidon's purple dye production was evident through a considerable mound of discarded '']'' shells discovered near the southern harbor.<ref name=":02" /> These shells were broken to extract the precious pigment, so rare that it became synonymous with royalty.<ref name=":1" /><ref name=":2" /> | |||
] | |||
On 4 December 1110 Sidon was ], a decade after the ], by King ] and King ]. It then became the centre of the ], an important lordship in the ]. ] captured it from the Crusaders in 1187, but German Crusaders restored it to Christian control in the ]. It would remain an important Crusader stronghold until it was finally destroyed by the ] in 1249. In 1260 it was again destroyed by the ]. The remains of the original walls are still visible. | |||
In AD 1855, the sarcophagus of King ] II was discovered. From a Phoenician inscription on its lid, it appears that he was a "king of the Sidonians," probably in the 5th century BC, and that his mother was a priestess of ], "the goddess of the Sidonians."<ref>Thomas Kelly, Herodotus and the Chronology of the Kings of Sidon, ], no. 268, pp. 39–56, 1987</ref> In this inscription the gods ] and ] Sidon 'Lord of Sidon' (who may or may not be the same) are mentioned as chief gods of the Sidonians. ‘Ashtart is entitled ''‘Ashtart-Shem-Ba‘al,'' '‘Ashtart the name of the Lord', a title also found in an ] text.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Sugimoto |first=David T. |date=2014 |title=Transformation of a Goddess |url=https://static1.squarespace.com/static/520f9c9be4b0210b06eba019/t/6078ad41f497d45a67b1c316/1618521411692/Transformation+of+a+goddess-astarte.pdf}}</ref> | |||
After Sidon came under ] rule in the early 16th century, it became the capital of the ] (province) and regained a great deal of its earlier commercial importance. | |||
] subjugated the city to be part of the ].{{sfn|Tucker|2019|p=876}} Sidon's navy played a significant role in the ] in 480 BC, aligning with the Persian fleet against the Greeks. From the mid-fifth century BC onward, warships became a prominent feature on the city's coinage.<ref name=":02">{{Cite book |last=Gates |first=Charles |title=Ancient cities: the archaeology of urban life in the ancient Near East and Egypt, Greece and Rome |date=2011 |publisher=Routledge |isbn=978-0-203-83057-4 |edition=2nd |location=London |pages=197, 190, 191}}</ref> At the end of the ] era, in 351 BC, Phoenicia was invaded by ].<ref name=":3">{{Cite book |last=Waldemar |first=Heckel |title=Who's Who in the Age of Alexander the Great |date=2008 |publisher=Blackwell |isbn=9781405154697 |pages=172}}</ref> | |||
===Modern era=== | |||
After ] it became part of the French ] of ]. During ] the city, together with the rest of Lebanon, was ] fighting against the ], and following the war it became a major city of independent ]. | |||
===Persian and Hellenistic periods=== | |||
Following the ] in 1948, a considerable number of ] refugees arrived in Sidon, as in other Lebanese cities, and were settled at the large refugee camps of ] and ]. At first these consisted of enormous rows of tents, but gradually houses were constructed. The refugee camps constituted de facto neighborhoods of Sidon, but had a separate legal and political status which made them into a kind of enclaves. At the same time, the remaining Jews of the city fled, and the Jewish cemetery fell into disrepair, threatened by coastal erosion. | |||
] of Sidon, now in the ]]] | |||
Like other Phoenician city-states, Sidon suffered from a succession of conquerors, first by the ] in the 6th century BC, ending with its occupation by ] in 333 BC, and the start of the ] of Sidon's history.<ref name=":3" /> The Persian influence seems to have been profound, as is observed in the change of the architectural style of the city. | |||
In exchange for supporting his conquest of ], King ] of Persia awarded Sidon with the territories of ], ], and the ].{{efn|]}}{{efn|The territories of the Phoenician cities could be discontiguous: thus, the lands and the cities of Dor and Joppa belonging to the Sidonians were separated from Sidon by the city of Tyre.{{sfn|Elayi|1997|p=66}}}}{{Sfn|Briant|2002|p=490}} | |||
Under the ] or successors of Alexander, it enjoyed relative autonomy and organised games and competitions in which the greatest athletes of the region participated. In the Hellenistic period ], important finds such as the ] (likely the tomb of King ] rather than Alexander<ref name=":02" />), the ]n tomb and the Sarcophagus of the Crying Women were discovered, which are now on display at the ] of ].<ref name="Turkey">{{Cite news |url= http://travel.nytimes.com/travel/guides/europe/turkey/istanbul/attraction-detail.html?vid=1154654614207 |title= Istanbul Archaeology Museum |access-date= 10 May 2008 |newspaper= The New York Times |url-status= dead |archive-url= https://archive.today/20120524104810/http://travel.nytimes.com/travel/guides/europe/turkey/istanbul/attraction-detail.html?vid=1154654614207 |archive-date= 24 May 2012 }}</ref> | |||
Sidon was a small fishing town of 10,000 inhabitants in 1900, but studies in 2000 showed a population of 65,000 in the city, and around 200,000 in the metropolitan area. The little level land around the city is used for cultivation of some wheat, vegetables, and fruits, especially citrus and bananas. The fishing in the city remains active with a newly opened fishery that sells fresh fish by bidding every morning. The ancient basin is transformed into a fishing port, while a small quay was constructed to receive small commercial vessels. (Refer to the '''"Old City"''' and the '''"Architecture and Landscape"''' sections below). | |||
===Roman period=== | |||
{{wide image|Panorama of Sidon from the castle.jpg|900px|alt=Panorama of Sidon as seen from the top of the Sea Castle, 2009|Panorama of Sidon as seen from the top of the Sea Castle, 2009}} | |||
When Sidon fell under Roman domination, it continued to mint its own silver coins.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Wicenciak |first=Urszula |date=2019-09-02 |title=Aspects of economic activity in Phoenicia during Roman and Byzantine times. The case of olive oil and amphora production in Chhim, in the chora of Sidon |url=https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/00758914.2020.1854973 |journal=Levant |language=en |volume=51 |issue=3 |pages=314–336 |doi=10.1080/00758914.2020.1854973 |issn=0075-8914}}</ref> The city was embellished by ], king of ],<ref name=":03" /> who built there a theatre.<ref name=":6">{{Cite book |last=Rogers |first=Guy MacLean |title=For the Freedom of Zion: the Great Revolt of Jews against Romans, 66-74 CE |date=2021 |publisher=] |isbn=978-0-300-24813-5 |location=New Haven |pages=22, 536}}</ref> By the ], Sidon sheltered enough ] that local pagans hesitated to attack them during the broader massacre of Jews in Greco-Syrian towns in 66 CE, as documented by ].<ref name=":03">{{Cite book |last=Schulze |first=Kirsten |url=https://referenceworks.brillonline.com/entries/encyclopedia-of-jews-in-the-islamic-world/*-SIM_0007390 |title=Encyclopedia of Jews in the Islamic World |publisher=Brill Reference Online |editor-last=Stillman |editor-first=Norman A. |chapter=Sidon|date=October 2010 }}</ref>] showing the location of Tyre and Sidon within the Roman Empire]] | |||
] was inaugurated in 2000 for the ]. | |||
The Romans built a theater and other major monuments in the city, and ] was discovered. In the reign of ], a ] was established there. During the ], when the ] destroyed most of the cities of ], the ] took refuge in Sidon. The town continued quietly for the next century, until the ] in 636.<ref name=":02" /><ref name=":4" /> | |||
==Impact on Sidon of regional underdevelopment== | |||
According to a recent United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) report "data also point to an increase in urban poverty especially in Lebanon's largest cities suburbs such as Beirut, Tripoli and Saida, as illustrated by poverty-driven symptoms (child labour, over-crowdedness and deteriorated environment conditions)."<ref>{{dead link|date=January 2015}}</ref> | |||
===Crusader-Ayyubid period=== | |||
In another UNDP report, the author discusses the development predominance of Beirut over the rest of the regions of Lebanon (North, South and Beqaa) is a well-known imbalance that can be dated to the early 19th century.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.undp.org.lb/communication/publications/linking/Session4.pdf |format=PDF |title=Towards a Regionally Balance Development |publisher=Undp.org.lb |accessdate=2015-03-16}}</ref> With the expansion of Beirut in the 1870s, urban growth in the future capital-city outgrew Tripoli and Saida. Transportation routes, missionary schools, universities and hospitals as well as the Beirut port development and the commerce of silk participated to the fortification of Beirut as a major trade center for Mediterranean exchange (ARNAUD 1993; LABAKI 1999: 23). However, the establishment of Great Lebanon in 1920, under the French mandate, added the poorer areas of the North (Akkar), Beqaa (Baalbak-Hermel) and the South (Jabal Aamel) to the relatively affluent cities of Mount Lebanon. This addition made of Lebanon a country composed of unequally developed regions. This legacy remains a heavy load to bear socially, culturally, economically and politically. Even though the public policies elaborated by the young Lebanese State were attempting to have regional perspectives, the early urban planning schemes reveal a development approach exclusively axed on Beirut and its suburbs. | |||
], built by the ] in AD 1228]] | |||
On 4 December 1110, Sidon was captured after the ], a decade after the ], by King ] and King ].<ref>{{Cite web |title=A History of the Crusades, Vol. II: The Kingdom of Jeru… |url=https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/428520.A_History_of_the_Crusades_Vol_II |access-date=2024-05-28 |website=Goodreads |language=en}}</ref> It then became the center of the ], an important vassal-state of the ]. ] captured it from the Crusaders in 1187, but German Crusaders restored it to Christian control in the ]. It remained an important Crusader stronghold until it was destroyed by the ] in 1249. In 1260, it was again destroyed by the ] led by ].{{sfn|Runciman|1987|p=308}} The remains of the original walls are still visible.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Sawaya |first=Gioia |date=2018-12-07 |title=Archaeology of Superpositions, as seen in Sidon's Sea Castle |url=https://hiddenarchitecture.net/archaeology-of-superpositions-as-seen-in-sidons-sea-castle/ |access-date=2024-05-28 |website=Hidden Architecture |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite journal |last1=Marriner |first1=Nick |last2=Morhange |first2=Christophe |last3=Doumet-Serhal |first3=Claude |date=November 2006 |title=Geoarchaeology of Sidon's ancient harbours, Phoenicia |url=http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jas.2006.02.004 |journal=Journal of Archaeological Science |volume=33 |issue=11 |pages=1514–1535 |doi=10.1016/j.jas.2006.02.004 |bibcode=2006JArSc..33.1514M |issn=0305-4403}}</ref><ref>{{Cite journal |last=Frost |first=Honor |date=March 1973 |title=The offshore island harbour at Sidon and other Phoenician sites in the light of new dating evidence |url=http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1095-9270.1973.tb00492.x |journal=International Journal of Nautical Archaeology |volume=2 |issue=1 |pages=75–94 |doi=10.1111/j.1095-9270.1973.tb00492.x |bibcode=1973IJNAr...2...75F |issn=1057-2414}}</ref> | |||
During the 12th century, ] noted the presence of approximately twenty Jews, possibly families, in Sidon, which he described as a "large city."<ref name=":03" /> | |||
The post war development policy of the State, promoted by Hariri government (1992–1998), was centred around balanced development and is widely inspired by the 1943 Pact and the 1989 Taef agreement (LABAKI1993: 104). However the application of this policy aims mainly at the rehabilitation and construction of roads and infrastructures (electricity,telephone, sewage). Another of its components is the rehabilitation of government buildings (airport, port, schools, universities and hospitals). Transportation projects (mainly concentrated on the coastal line) constitute 25% of the budget of 10-year economic plan developed by the CDR (BAALBAKI 1994: 90). However, all these projects are predominantly concentrated around Beirut, ignoring the regions. | |||
=== |
===Ottoman period=== | ||
After Sidon came under ] rule in the early 16th century, it became the capital of the ] (province) and regained a great deal of its earlier commercial importance.<ref name=":0" /> In 1521, ] encountered twenty families of ] during his visit to Sidon.<ref name=":03" /> | |||
Near the southern entrance to the city lies a 'rubbish mountain' called the Makab, a 600,000 cubic metre heap that reaches the height of a four-story building. It was originally created to dispose of the remains of buildings destroyed in Israeli air strikes during the 1982 invasion, but it is now the main dump for the city. Growing out of the sea, it has become an environmental hazard, with ] and plastic bags polluting nearby fishing grounds. | |||
During the 18th century, the city was dominated by the Hammud family of notables, who monopolized the production and exporting of cotton in the region and built numerous palaces and public works in the city. The Hammuds also served as government customs agents and tax collectors for various Ottoman religious foundations.<ref name=":0">{{cite journal |last1=Winter |first1=Stefan |url=https://www.academia.edu/44396298 |title=Saïda à l'époque des agha-s: la famille Hammud et l'État ottoman au XVIIIe siècle |journal=Archivum Ottomanicum |date=2020 |volume=37 |pages=219–242 |access-date=8 March 2022 |archive-date=13 February 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230213161506/https://www.academia.edu/44396298 |url-status=live }}</ref> | |||
Sidon politicians, including the Hariri family, failed for decades to resolve the Makab crisis—which has endangered residents health (especially during episodic burning). In 2004, Engineer Hamzi Moghrabi, a Sidon native, conceived the idea to establish a treatment plant for the City's decades-old chronic waste problem. He established IBC Enviro, privately funded, and the treatment plant became operational in 2013.<http://www.ibc-enviro.com/> | |||
During the ], Sidon, like much of ], was occupied by the forces of ]. His ambitions were opposed by the British Empire, which backed the Ottomans. The ] Admiral ], commanding a mixed squadron of British, Turkish and Austrian ships, bombarded Sidon on 26 September 1840, and landed with a column. Sidon capitulated in two days, and the British went on to ]. This action was recalled in two Royal Navy vessels being named {{HMS|Sidon}}.<ref>{{Cite book |last1=Colledge |first1=James Joseph |title=Ships of the Royal Navy: the complete record of all fighting ships of the Royal Navy from the 15th century to the present |last2=Warlow |first2=Ben |date=2006 |publisher=Chatham Publ |isbn=978-1-86176-281-8 |edition=New rev. |location=London}}</ref> | |||
The Ministry of Environment came up with a $50,000+ plan to clean the whole area and transform the dump into a green space, along with other heaps in the country. Qamla beach in Sidon, a coast in close proximity to the Sea Castle, witnessed a large municipal cleanup in May 2011, as it was an easy target of rubbish being washed up by the Makab. These plans aim to revive the former glory of the city's coasts and attract tourists who avoided swimming in Sidon's sea before. The project of cleaning the region where the waste dump has already started, and currently a waves-barrier is being built, and the vast bulk of the waste dump being cleared.<ref>{{cite web|last=Antelava |first=Natalia |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/middle_east/8426091.stm |title=Lebanese city's mountain of rubbish |publisher=BBC News |date=2009-12-25 |accessdate=2015-03-16}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.business24-7.ae/Articles/2009/11/Pages/24112009/11252009_73db570b8298406b974037f9b3a23bbb.aspx|title=Mountain of rubbish overwhelms Sidon|work=Emirates 24/7|accessdate=15 September 2014}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.iloubnan.info/environment/actualite/id/37182/titre/Sidon-chokes-under-rubbish-dump|title=Sidon chokes under rubbish dump|publisher=|accessdate=15 September 2014}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.dailystar.com.lb/article.asp?edition_id=1&categ_id=1&article_id=108602|title=Syringes plague Sidon beach as dump spills medical waste|work=The Daily Star Newspaper - Lebanon|accessdate=15 September 2014}}</ref> | |||
The 19th century brought significant changes to the Jewish community of Sidon. By 1830, the community, comprising around twenty-five families of primarily Arabic-speaking merchants, had customs akin to those of ]. Starting in 1850, the community witnessed growth as ], initially settled in the ] above Beirut, migrated to Sidon and ] amidst escalating ]-] tensions and the ensuing 1860 war. With roots in mountain traditions, they introduced citrus cultivation on the outskirts of Sidon, leading to the construction of a new ] in 1860 to meet the needs of the expanding community.<ref name=":03" /> | |||
==Old City== | |||
] | |||
The historical core of Sidon is a ]-era old city that extends between the Sea Castle and the ]. Located on a promontory jutting into the sea, this walled medieval city is very well preserved and is still inhabited today. The old City resembles a vaulted maze with narrow alleyways and winding streets. Arched pathways connect the different neighborhoods of the city. On street level, numerous souvenir shops and mini-markets can be found with old-] fashioned bakeries making crunchy ], called "Kaak". A lot of the alleys take the name of their residents' occupations like the "Carpenters' Alley" and the "Tailors' Alley". Several mosques dating back to the ] Era are still preserved and are open to the public. A number of TV series and Music Videos have been filmed inside the Old city of Sidon. Being of great historical and architectural significance, the Old City went through a lot of renovations and there is still some measure of restoring to be done rather than focusing on face-lifting. Perhaps the potentials of this city in architectural terms exceed those of other Levantine coastal cities. The morphology of old Sidon has resonances in terms of potentials with the French mediterranean resort city of ]. However the local Sidonians and the Lebanese in general have not yet recognised the potentials of their city, which is vaster than ] the currently most touristic and preserved old city in Lebanon. | |||
From 1887 the ] was extensively excavated by the Ottomans, and its treasures transferred to ] (like the ]). Sidon was a small fishing town of 10,000 inhabitants in 1900. | |||
==Local government== | |||
The city of Sidon is administrated by the Municipality of Sidon. The municipality is constituted of a council of 21 members including the City Mayor and his Deputy. It has administrative and financial independence but remains under the control and supervision of the central government, specifically the Ministry of Interior. The municipality's jurisdiction is limited to a region of 786 hectares in area and 5 meters in elevation, while each of the city's suburbs is administrated by its own independent municipal council. Sidon is the center of the ], and hosts the seat of the Governor of Southern Lebanon. The city is also the center of the Sidon District and the Union of Sidon and Zahrani Municipalities (founded in 1978 and contains 15 municipalities). Sidon hosts the southern regional headquarters of a series of governmental facilities like the Central Bank of Lebanon, Électricité du Liban, Central Telecommunications Station and others. It is also the home of the Justice Palace of South Lebanon in its new headquarters on East Boulevard (the old headquarters were an old ] ] that is currently occupied by the LSF and is planned to be transformed into a cultural center by the municipality). | |||
===After World War I=== | |||
In the 2000 and 2005 parliamentary elections, the Sidon District along with the ] and ] districts formed the first electoral district of South Lebanon. However, in the 2009 elections – and due to the reactivation of the 1960 electoral law – the city of Sidon was separated from its district to form a separate electoral district. | |||
] | |||
After ] it became part of the French ] of ].<ref>{{Cite web |title=Lebanon - French Mandate, Mediterranean, Phoenicians {{!}} Britannica |url=https://www.britannica.com/place/Lebanon/French-mandate |access-date=2024-05-28 |website=www.britannica.com |language=en}}</ref> During ] the city, together with the rest of Lebanon, was ] fighting against the ], and following the war it became a major city of independent ].<ref>{{Cite web |last=Bacha |first=François El |date=2021-05-08 |title=Lebanon / History: Lebanon in the turmoil of WWII and its independence |url=https://libnanews.com/en/lebanon-history-lebanon-in-the-turmoil-of-wwii-and-its-independence/ |access-date=2024-05-28 |website=Libnanews, Le Média Citoyen du Liban |language=en-US}}</ref> Following the ], ] refugees arrived in Sidon, as in other Lebanese cities, and were settled at the large refugee camps of ] and ].<ref>{{Cite web |last=Lax |first=Chaim |date=2023-03-09 |title=The Palestinian Refugees: 1948 to Today |url=https://honestreporting.com/the-palestinian-refugees-1948-to-today/ |access-date=2024-05-28 |website=HonestReporting |language=en-US}}</ref> At first these consisted of enormous rows of tents, but gradually houses were constructed. The refugee camps constituted de facto neighborhoods of Sidon, but had a separate legal and political status which made them into a kind of enclaves. At the same time, the remaining Jews of the city fled, and the Jewish cemetery fell into disrepair, threatened by coastal erosion. | |||
On ], 19 April 1981, at least sixteen people were killed in Sidon after the (]) SLA's long-range artillery indiscriminately shelled the city centre. It was reported that it was in response to a request from ] in connection with ongoing Syrian attacks on ] positions around ]. Israel denied involvement.<ref>] No 149, 8 May 1981; Publishers ], ], Editor ]; ] pp.6-7. No 148, 24 April 1981; ] p. 3</ref> After the 1982 Israeli ] of Lebanon Sidon was occupied by the ] for almost two and a half years.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Fisher |first=Dan |date=1985-02-17 |title=Israel Quits Sidon in 1st Pullout Step : No Incidents Mar Troop Withdrawal in South Lebanon |url=https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1985-02-17-mn-3532-story.html |access-date=2024-05-28 |website=Los Angeles Times |language=en-US}}</ref> | |||
==Demographics== | |||
Sidon is the seat of the Greek Melkite Catholic Archbishop of Sidon and ], and has housed a significant Catholic population throughout its history. Sidon also hosts the seats of the ] Mufti and the ] ] of South Lebanon. | |||
On 18 August 1997, following a roadside bomb near ] which killed two teenage members of a ] leader's family, SLA artillery shelled Sidon killing seven civilians and wounding thirty-five. ] responded the following day by firing 60–80 rockets into the ] and northern Israel. According to ] observers the missiles appeared to be targeted at uninhabited areas. The attack on Sidon is credited with leading to a truce between Hizbollah and ] and increased cooperation between the two groups and the ]. This was evident in the ] the following month.<ref>Middle East International No 557, 29 August 1997; Michael Jansen, pp. 3-7. No 558. 12 September 1997.</ref> | |||
In the 1930s, when Lebanon was still under the French mandate, Sidon had the largest ] population in Lebanon, estimated at 3,588, with 3,060 in ].<ref>Simon, Reeva S., Michael M. Laskier, and Sara Reguer, eds. 2003. The Jews of the Middle East and North Africa in Modern Times. New York: Columbia University Press. P. 332</ref> | |||
On 8 June 1999 two gunmen entered the Palais de Justice, Sidon's main courthouse, and shot dead three magistrates and a chief prosecutor. The attackers escaped. No group claimed responsibility but suspicion focused on ] whose leader had been sentenced to death ''in absentia'' for the murder of the head of the ] ] movement and the attempted assassination of the ] of ]. He was believed to be in hiding in the ] refugee camp.<ref>Middle East International No 602, 18 June 1999; Jim Quilty p.9</ref> | |||
{| class="wikitable" | |||
|- | |||
! Religion | |||
! Voters | |||
! Percent (%) | |||
! Religion | |||
! Voters | |||
! Percent (%) | |||
|- | |||
| ] | |||
| 36163 | |||
| 79.7 | |||
| ] | |||
| 82 | |||
| 0.2 | |||
|- | |||
| ] | |||
| 4888 | |||
| 10.8 | |||
| ] | |||
| 38 | |||
| 0.1 | |||
|- | |||
| ] | |||
| 43 | |||
| 0.1 | |||
| ] | |||
| 19 | |||
| 0.0 | |||
|- | |||
| ] | |||
| 2 | |||
| 0.0 | |||
| ] | |||
| 18 | |||
| 0.0 | |||
|- | |||
| ] | |||
| 1686 | |||
| 3.7 | |||
| ] | |||
| 17 | |||
| 0.0 | |||
|- | |||
| ] | |||
| 1513 | |||
| 3.3 | |||
| ] | |||
| 4 | |||
| 0.0 | |||
|- | |||
| ] | |||
| 310 | |||
| 0.7 | |||
| ] | |||
| 1 | |||
| 0.0 | |||
|- | |||
| ] | |||
| 256 | |||
| 0.6 | |||
| Other Christians | |||
| 19 | |||
| 0.0 | |||
|- | |||
| ] | |||
| 171 | |||
| 0.4 | |||
| Unspecified | |||
| 161 | |||
| 0.4 | |||
|} | |||
Studies in 2000 showed a population of 65,000 in the city, and around 200,000 in the metropolitan area. The little level land around the city is used for cultivation of wheat, vegetables, and fruits, especially citrus and bananas. The fishing in the city remains active with a newly opened fishery that sells fresh fish by bidding every morning. The ancient basin was transformed into a fishing port, while a small quay was constructed to receive small commercial vessels (see "Old City" and the "Architecture and landscape" sections below). | |||
==Main sights== | |||
{{wide image|Panorama of Sidon from the castle.jpg|900px|alt=Panorama of Sidon as seen from the top of the Sea Castle, 2009|{{center|Panorama of Sidon as seen from the top of the Sea Castle, 2009}}}} | |||
] | |||
] was inaugurated in 2000 for the ]. | |||
] | |||
] | |||
] | |||
] | |||
* ], a fortress built by the ] in the early 13th century. It is located near the Port of Sidon. | |||
* ]. It traces the history of the soap making in the region and its different manufacturing steps. | |||
* ''Khan el Franj'' ("] of the French"), built by Emir ] in the 17th century to accommodate French merchants and goods in order to develop trade with Europe. This is a typical khan with a large rectangular courtyard and a central fountain surrounded by covered galleries. | |||
* Debbane Palace, a historical residence built in 1721, an example of Arab-Ottoman architecture. It is currently in the process of being transformed into the History Museum of Sidon.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.museumsaida.org/english/projet.htm |title=Welcome to Debbane Palace |publisher=Museumsaida.org |accessdate=6 May 2009}}</ref> This villa was earlier occupied by the Hammoud family in the 18th century and also by members of the famous Ottoman aristocrats of the ] in the late 19th century and early 20th century. The vaults at the ground level being originally stables for the villa residents and then turned into shops as part of the old souks, and known until recent time by association to the Abazas. | |||
* Old Souk, a historical vaulted market stretching between the Sea Castle and the Castle of St. Louis. | |||
* ] (''Qalaat Al Muizz''). It was built by the ] in the 13th century on top of the remains of a fortress built by the ] caliph ]. It is located to the south of the Old Souks near ]. | |||
* ], dedicated to the ]n God of healing. Built in the 7th century BC, it is located in the north of Sidon near the Awali river. | |||
* The Ziri, a tiny rocky island located {{convert|1.5|km|1|abbr=on}} off the coastline of Sidon. In ancient times, it was used as a breakwater for the protection of ships and fleets. The island is a preferred destination for the locals who come here for picnics and swimming. The island is accessed by several ferry boats from the port of Sidon. | |||
* The Corniche is a seaside promenade that extends for about {{convert|7|km|0|abbr=on}} along the city's coast. The Corniche is a popular destination for walkers, joggers, skaters and bikers. Push cart vendors offer an array of local snacks and drinks. | |||
* The Sidon Resthouse (''Istirahat Saida''), a traditional architectural structure that houses an elegant and well-known Lebanese restaurant, overlooking the Sea Castle and the old port, with a view of the Ziri from its long terraces and garden. It also features a courtyard interior with a fountain and ornamented walls with masonry archways. | |||
* The Largest Lebanese Flag. On Lebanon's 66th Independence Day, Sidon witnessed the erection of the largest Lebanese flag. The flag is 12 meters long and 6 meters wide, and was erected on a 21 meter high pole. The flag was raised on the intersection of ] Boulevard and ] Street, and is easily accessible from the Corniche. The flag was painted by 66 students from the city. | |||
* The ''Bahaa El-Dine'' Mosque. Financed by ] and named after his father, the mosque is a 21st-century take on ]'s Ottoman Mosques. Located on a roundabout on the city's northern entrance, the mosque is an architectural gem that dots the city's skyline. The mosque with its authentic ] designs, interior Islamic inscriptions, inner courtyards, ]-styled minarets and awe-inspiring 36-meter-high dome is a non-miss landmark in the city. | |||
* The British War Cemetery in Sidon. Opened in 1943 by units of His Majesty's (King George VI) British Forces occupying the Lebanon after the 1941 campaign against the Vochi French troops. It was originally used for the burial of men who died while serving with the occupation force, but subsequently the graves of a number of the casualties of the 1941 campaign were moved into the cemetery from other burial grounds or from isolated positions in the vicinity. The cemetery now contains 176 Commonwealth burials of the Second World War and nine war graves of other nationalities. It was designed by G. Vey. It is perhaps that only garden in modern Sidon that is elegantly kept and cared for. It is not a public garden but can be visited when the wardens have its gateways opened <ref>{{cite web|author=Reading Room Manchester |url=http://www.cwgc.org/find-a-cemetery/cemetery/2016405/Sidon%20War%20Cemetery |title=Cemetery Details |publisher=CWGC |date= |accessdate=2015-01-29}}</ref> | |||
==Politics== | |||
==Architecture and landscape== | |||
{{unreferenced section|date=December 2023}} | |||
In general, the architectural spaces of the old part of the city, with its antique, medieval and Ottoman quarters, are impressive, and are ranked as world heritage. It is adorned with various examples of great architectural legacies since antiquity. This is the case despite the fact that its buildings and alleyways are neglected, and require monumental renovations and organised efforts to prevent them from falling into further ruin. Some international funds were allocated to sponsor the facelifting of certain public spaces and old squares with the provision if minimal infrastructure. There are also individual initiatives to restore specific neighbourhoods as pioneered by the Audi Foundation and its elegantly rehabilitated old soap factory, now turned into a museum. The same applies to the renewal of the Debbane Ottoman mansion or villa, which was originally linked to the Hammoud family trust and was even occupied by a branch of the aristocratic ] towards the end of the 19th century. The old city has great architectural potentials that remain underdeveloped. It has qualities that can put it on par with the old quarters of ] if its architecture becomes safeguarded and protected as well as promoted for quality life-styles. Sidon can learn from more modest yet successful examples in Lebanon itself, such as the restoration and adaptive re-use of the old quarters of ] and its small seaport entourage, or to be inspired in a humbler scale by the development of Downtown ]. | |||
] | |||
This sectarian and demographic division rose to the surface during the ], when armed clashes erupted between Sunni Muslims and Christians. The clashes ended with the surrender of the Christian front, and Christians were forced to move to east ]. After the war ended in 1990, some Christians gradually returned to their hometowns but in 2000 many fled to Israel. The local politics of Sidon in the 20th century was mainly dominated up till the 1980s by allegiances around two main families, the ] and Saad. The El-Bizri politicians were known for their business connections, close ties with eminent Lebanese and Levantine leaders, and their bent on serving the Lebanese state as government ministers, officials and mayors. The Saad politicians tended to be populist and became engaged in violent protests in the 1940s, 1950s and then during the Lebanese civil war as Nasserites (populist followers of ] in Lebanon). | |||
The local political conflict between these two families was always resolved through amicable means and ties of kinship. Their hold over the political aspects of the city was similar to that of Mediterranean families in Sicily or to being also influenced by the ties of Arab families, clans, and tribes in traditionalist forms. The most notable figures of the El-Bizri family in the first half of the 20th century were: Ahmad El-Bizri (born 1899), Salah El-Bizri, Eizeddine El-Bizri (commonly known as Eizzo) and Anwar El-Bizri (born 1910). These four brothers were businessmen and politicians who dominated the political life of the city up till the late 1940s, using traditional inherited forms of governance since Ottoman times. With intelligence and strength they maintained their power for over 50 years. It is from their ranks that ] started his public life, and their close cousins, Nazih El-Bizri, Amin El-Bizri, and Fouad El-Bizri became the next generation of politicians and statesmen in Lebanon; holding positions as ministers and members of parliament. | |||
The modern city of Sidon that extends outside the walls of the medieval quarters is generally chaotic, deprived of any notable aesthetics, built with inexpensive material, and lacking in any form of urban planning. There are some minor exceptions to this at the level of individual buildings, especially those erected in the 1950s to the 1960s, in addition to a small number of mosques, commercial malls and villas or buildings designed by proper architects or up-market developers. The sprawl in the built environment has disfigured the cityscape and the landscape around it. Ugly buildings and terrible parking lots replaced the great citrus orchards that once surrounded Sidon and used to perfume it in the springtime. The only highly maintained green-space that has refined qualities is the War Cemetery of the British legions in the ] during ] and ] that fell in Sidon. Beautifully landscaped and managed by the British, this cemetery is surrounded outside its fences by dilapidated buildings and scarred neglected landscapes. Near it remains a large citrus orchard that one hopes will resist the assaults of chaotic and irreverent builders. Moreover, the old city of Sidon that was always connected to the sea and its waves has been separated from its seashores by a very wide highway of asphalt that the locals refer to as the "corniche". These rather defacing aspects are also set against a total lack of green public spaces and gardens. This aggressive degradation in the urban and architectural qualities has furthermore reached a dangerous turn in ecological terms with the disposal of sewage in the seafront and the dumping of refuse material that culminated in a mountain of rubbish known as the "Makab" (as noted in the section above), which threatens not only Sidon's sea and the life within it, but also a vast stretch of the Eastern Mediterranean coastline. In fairness, one still has to note that Sidon is not worse in its urban and environmental conditions than other Lebanese cities like ] or ]. The greatest maritime city of Sidon, which was once set in a longstanding marriage with the sea, and that used to be adorned in all sides by gardens and orchids, is now turned against itself, becoming a living threat to the sea that also consumes the remainder of the green landscape and litters it. Maybe the future generations of this once grand city will someday experience the saving awakenings before it is too late. Perhaps the expat immigrant Sidonians who have been exposed to the qualities of life in North America, Europe, and the rich Arab states of the Gulf may bring novel initiatives of more refined development. | |||
The El-Bizri and the Saad political practices were bent on social justice and on local service in public affairs. The El-Bizri were since the Ottoman rule bent on serving the state, and this continued with their loyalty and support to the successive governments of Lebanon since the times of independence. They also helped eminent politicians and statesmen from Sidonian descent such as the Prime Ministers ], ] and Rashid Solh, they also gave their support to former Prime Minister ], father of ], Prime Minister 2014–2016. The presence of the El-Bizris was at times intimidating on the local scene, but they were also known for their goodwill and dignified public service. | |||
==Shopping and entertainment== | |||
] | |||
The Saad family developed their links with Nasserism in the 1950s and engaged in the uprising and armed protest of 1958 against the government of the Lebanese President Chamoun. They also became involved in the civil war as part of the left wing politics of the Lebanon (Al-Haraka al-Wataniyya) with PLO connections, and they actively contributed to resisting the Israeli occupation after 1982. The Saads remained populist in their politics and focused on the grassroots, while the El-Bizri were generally appealing to the middle and upper classes. In the middle 1980s, the Hariri family began to rise to prominence and became the most influential in Sidon in political and financial terms, even though the presence of the Saad and the El-Bizri in local politics remained significant at the level of visibility and activism. The Saad family developed its original politics from within the sphere of influence of the El-Bizri family and then became a power to reckon with on its own after 1948, and most powerfully in 1958, then in the civil war and until the present today. | |||
Besides it old medieval quarters that contain some small traditional bazars (generally aimed at lower income groups), the modern sector of Sidon contains several shopping venues boasting local and international brands, as well as a handful of food and beverage outlets like the "Spinneys" and "BSAT" supermarkets. Traditional Coffeeshops serving Turkish coffee and the fruit-flavored ] occupy the seafront of the Old City while modern restaurants, especially those that serve Lebanese and Italian cuisine, are centered in the new city. From ] and ] to ], ] and ], several western chains have opened at least one branch in the city, with more opening in the near future. Traditional Oriental sweets are Sidon's speciality with regionally renowned sweetshops found all over the city. | |||
Maarouf Saad, the leader of his family, and a local influential politician, was assassinated at the eve of the Lebanese civil war in 1975. The Saads retained their populism and grassroots appeal, and attracted a core of loyal adherents since the middle of the 20th century. While the El-Bizri were Levantine in their Arabism (namely focused mainly on Bilad al-Shaam in regional politics), and the Solh being also similar to them in this, the Saad were leaning more towards a broader pan-Arabism (Nasserite, Libyan, and then Syrian). The Hariri family started to rise to political and economic prominence in the 1980s and became perhaps the most influential family in Lebanon by the mid-1990s, following modern forms of political practice through a large party (Future Movement) that cuts across various economic classes. | |||
Shopping is concentrated within two areas: East Boulevard, and the city center. From the high-end designer stores of ] and ] to stores directed to low and middle-income consumers, clothing stores in Sidon cater to all tastes and needs. Several other international clothing brands could be found in the city. These include ALDO, ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], and ]. Some of these stores could be found in the 2 malls in the city, Saida Mall (24,000 sq meters) and Le Mall (12,000 sq meters), aside to kids entertainment facilities, cafes and restaurants. | |||
==Impact on Sidon of regional underdevelopment== | |||
Sidon also has a large Amusement Park near its southern entrance but not always in use. | |||
According to a 2013 ] (UNDP) report "data also point to an increase in urban poverty especially in Lebanon's largest cities suburbs such as Beirut, Tripoli and Saida, as illustrated by poverty-driven symptoms (child labour, over-crowding and deteriorated environment conditions)."<ref> undp.org {{webarchive |url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131105032823/http://www.undp.org.lb/WhatWeDo/poverty.cfm |date=5 November 2013 }}</ref> In another UNDP report, the author discusses the development predominance of Beirut over the rest of the regions of Lebanon (North, South and Beqaa) is a well-known imbalance that can be dated to the early 19th century.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.undp.org.lb/communication/publications/linking/Session4.pdf |title=Towards a Regionally Balance Development |publisher=Undp.org.lb |access-date=2015-03-16 |archive-date=4 March 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304074006/http://www.undp.org.lb/communication/publications/linking/Session4.pdf |url-status=live }}</ref> With the expansion of Beirut in the 1870s, urban growth in the future capital outpaced Tripoli and Saida. Transportation routes, missionary schools, universities and hospitals as well as the Beirut port development and the commerce of silk participated to the fortification of Beirut as a major trade center for Mediterranean exchange (ARNAUD 1993; LABAKI 1999: 23). However, the establishment of Great Lebanon in 1920, under the French mandate, added the poorer areas of the North (Akkar), Beqaa (Baalbak-Hermel) and the South (Jabal Aamel) to the relatively affluent cities of Mount Lebanon. This addition made of Lebanon a country composed of unequally developed regions. This legacy remains a heavy load to bear socially, culturally, economically and politically. Even though the public policies elaborated by the young Lebanese State were attempting to have regional perspectives, the early urban planning schemes reveal a development approach exclusively axed{{dubious|date=June 2023}} on Beirut and its suburbs.{{citation needed|date=June 2023}} | |||
The post war development policy of the State, promoted by Hariri government (1992–1998), was centered around balanced development and is widely inspired by the 1943 Pact and the 1989 Taef agreement (LABAKI1993: 104). However the application of this policy aims mainly at the rehabilitation and construction of roads and infrastructures (electricity, telephone, sewage). Another of its components is the rehabilitation of government buildings (airport, port, schools, universities and hospitals). Transportation projects (mainly concentrated on the coastal line) constitute 25% of the budget of 10-year economic plan developed by the CDR (BAALBAKI 1994: 90). However, all these projects are predominantly concentrated around Beirut, ignoring the regions. | |||
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===The former ''Makab'' (waste dump) and the treatment plant === | |||
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Near the southern entrance to the city used to be a 'rubbish mountain' called at the time by the locals the ''Makab''; namely, a 600,000 cubic metre heap that reached the height of a four-story building. It was originally created to dispose of the remains of buildings destroyed in Israeli air strikes during the 1982 invasion, but it then became the main dump for the city. Growing out of the sea, it became an environmental hazard, with ] and plastic bags polluting nearby fishing grounds.{{citation needed|date=July 2017}} | |||
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Sidon politicians, including the Hariri family, failed for decades to resolve the ''Makab'' crisis—which has endangered residents' health (especially during episodic burning). In 2004, Engineer Hamzi Moghrabi, a Sidon native, conceived the idea to establish a treatment plant for the city's decades-old chronic waste problem. He established the privately funded IBC Enviro and the treatment plant became operational in 2013.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Chami |first=Hanadi |date=4 October 2012 |title=Saida to get rid of trash mountain |url=http://www.businessnews.com.lb/cms/Story/StoryDetails/2189/Saida-to-get-rid-of-trash-mountain |access-date=17 September 2023 |website=Lebanon Opportunities |language=en-US}}</ref> | |||
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The Ministry of Environment came up with a $50,000+ plan to clean the whole area and transform the dump into a green space, along with other heaps in the country. Qamla beach in Sidon, a coast in close proximity to the Sea Castle, witnessed a large municipal cleanup in May 2011, as it was an easy target of rubbish being washed up by the Makab. These plans aim to revive the former glory of the city's coasts and attract tourists who avoided swimming in Sidon's sea before. The project of cleaning the region where the waste dump has already started, and currently a waves-barrier is being built, and the vast bulk of the waste dump being cleared.<ref>{{cite news |last=Antelava |first=Natalia |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/middle_east/8426091.stm |title=Lebanese city's mountain of rubbish |work=BBC News |date=2009-12-25 |access-date=2015-03-16 |archive-date=15 June 2013 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130615032531/http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/middle_east/8426091.stm |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.business24-7.ae/Articles/2009/11/Pages/24112009/11252009_73db570b8298406b974037f9b3a23bbb.aspx|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20091127204925/http://www.business24-7.ae/Articles/2009/11/Pages/24112009/11252009_73db570b8298406b974037f9b3a23bbb.aspx|url-status=dead|archive-date=27 November 2009|title=Mountain of rubbish overwhelms Sidon|work=Emirates 24/7|access-date=15 September 2014}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.iloubnan.info/environment/actualite/id/37182/titre/Sidon-chokes-under-rubbish-dump|title=Sidon chokes under rubbish dump|access-date=15 September 2014|archive-date=2 April 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150402141156/http://www.iloubnan.info/environment/actualite/id/37182/titre/Sidon-chokes-under-rubbish-dump|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.dailystar.com.lb/article.asp?edition_id=1&categ_id=1&article_id=108602|title=Syringes plague Sidon beach as dump spills medical waste|work=The Daily Star Newspaper - Lebanon|access-date=15 September 2014}}</ref> | |||
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==Local government== | |||
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The city of Sidon is administered by the Municipality of Sidon. The municipality is constituted of a council of 21 members including the City Mayor and his Deputy. It has administrative and financial independence but remains under the control and supervision of the central government, specifically the Ministry of Interior. The municipality's jurisdiction is limited to a region of 786 hectares in area and 5 meters in elevation, while each of the city's suburbs is administered by its own independent municipal council. Sidon is the center of the ], and hosts the seat of the Governor of Southern Lebanon. The city is also the center of the Sidon District and the Union of Sidon and Zahrani Municipalities (founded in 1978 and contains 15 municipalities). Sidon hosts the southern regional headquarters of a series of governmental facilities like the Central Bank of Lebanon, Électricité du Liban, Central Telecommunications Station and others. It is also the home of the Justice Palace of South Lebanon in its new headquarters on East Boulevard (the old headquarters were an old ] ] that is currently occupied by the LSF and is planned to be transformed into a cultural center by the municipality).{{citation needed|date=July 2017}} | |||
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In the 2000 and 2005 parliamentary elections, the Sidon District along with the ] and ] districts formed the first electoral district of South Lebanon. However, in the 2009 elections – and due to the reactivation of the 1960 electoral law – the city of Sidon was separated from its district to form a separate electoral district.{{citation needed|date=July 2017}} | |||
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==Demographics== | |||
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|title=Religion in Sidon (2014) <ref>https://lub-anan.com/المحافظات/الجنوب/صيدا-مدينة/صيدا/المذاهب/</ref> | |||
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{{bar percent|]|Green|82.16}} | |||
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{{bar percent|]|DarkBlue|6.49}} | |||
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In 2014 ] made up 92.99% and ] made up 6.49% of registered voters in Sidon. 82.16% of the voters were ] and 10.83% were ].<ref>https://lub-anan.com/المحافظات/الجنوب/صيدا-مدينة/صيدا/المذاهب/</ref> | |||
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|Al Rai Hospital | |||
The overwhelming majority of Sidon's population belong to the Sunni sect of Islam, with a small number of Shiites and Christians. Sidon is the seat of the Greek Melkite Catholic Archbishop of Sidon and ], and has housed a significant Catholic population throughout its history.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.catholic-hierarchy.org/diocese/dsadm.html|title=Saïdā (Sidone) (Maronite Eparchy) |website=www.catholic-hierarchy.org|access-date=2019-03-28|archive-date=29 March 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190329002456/http://www.catholic-hierarchy.org/diocese/dsadm.html|url-status=live}}</ref> Sidon also hosts the seat of the ] ] of South Lebanon.{{citation needed|date=July 2017}} | |||
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In the 1930s, when Lebanon was still under the French mandate, Sidon had the largest ] population in Lebanon, estimated at 3,588, compared to 3,060 in ],<ref>Simon, Reeva S., Michael M. Laskier, and Sara Reguer, eds. 2003. The Jews of the Middle East and North Africa in Modern Times. New York: Columbia University Press, pg. 332</ref> however by the end of 1990s most of the Jewish population had emigrated leaving their cemitery and other sites in a state of abandonment.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://nabisaydoun.org/|title=Nabi Saydoun Project|access-date=13 November 2024}}</ref> | |||
| Jebeili hospital | |||
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==Main sights== | |||
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] | |||
] | |||
* ], a fortress built by the ] in the early 13th century. It is located near the Port of Sidon. | |||
* ]. It traces the history of the soap making in the region and its different manufacturing steps. | |||
* ] ("] of the ]"), a complex built in the 16th century, though erroneously credited to Emir ] in the 17th century. It gained its name for accommodating French merchants and goods in order to develop trade with Europe. This is a typical ] with a large rectangular courtyard and a central fountain surrounded by covered galleries. | |||
* ], a historical residence built in 1721, an example of Arab-Ottoman architecture.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.museumsaida.org/english/projet.htm |title=Welcome to Debbane Palace |publisher=Museumsaida.org |access-date=6 May 2009 |archive-date=11 May 2008 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080511222427/http://www.museumsaida.org/english/projet.htm |url-status=live }}</ref> This villa was earlier occupied by the Hammoud family in the 18th century and also by members of the famous Ottoman aristocrats of the ] in the late 19th century and early 20th century. The vaults at the ground level being originally stables for the villa residents and then turned into shops as part of the old souks, and known until recent time by association to the Abazas. | |||
* ] (''Qalaat Al Muizz''). It was built by the Crusaders in the 13th century on top of the remains of a fortress built by the ] caliph ]. It is located to the south of the Old Souks near ]. | |||
* ], dedicated to the ]n god of healing. Built in the 7th century BC, it is located in the north of Sidon near the ]. | |||
* The ] in Sidon. Opened in 1943 by units of His Majesty's (]) British Forces occupying the Lebanon after the ] against the ] troops. It was originally used for the burial of men who died while serving with the occupation force, but subsequently the graves of a number of the casualties of the 1941 campaign were moved into the cemetery from other burial grounds or from isolated positions in the vicinity. The cemetery now contains 176 ] burials of the ] and nine war graves of other nationalities. It was designed by G. Vey. It is perhaps the only garden in modern Sidon that is elegantly kept and cared for. It is not a public garden, but can be visited when the wardens have its gateways opened.<ref>{{cite web |author=Reading Room Manchester |url=http://www.cwgc.org/find-a-cemetery/cemetery/2016405/Sidon%20War%20Cemetery |title=Cemetery Details |publisher=CWGC |access-date=2015-01-29 |archive-date=6 October 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141006095641/http://www.cwgc.org/find-a-cemetery/cemetery/2016405/Sidon%20War%20Cemetery |url-status=live }}</ref> | |||
==Education== | ==Education== | ||
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==Archaeology== | |||
The Beirut Arab University declared recently that its future Sidon Campus will host its Faculty of Medicine. | |||
The following archaeological sites in the area indicate settlements from the earliest ] times. | |||
Sidon I, II and III are prehistoric sites, while Sidon I is the tell of ancient Sidon starting from the Early Bronze Age. | |||
==Festivals and celebrations== | |||
* The "Nights of the Khan" festival, consisting of a series of concerts and performances held in the ] in the Old City of Sidon. The festival takes place during the holy month of ]. It is organized by the International Sidon Festivals Committee and the Hariri Foundation. The Festival hosts a wide array of artists and performers; it features ] art, poetry recitals, religious song medleys, Folkloric Lebanese and ] dance groups. The festival was frequently attended by the Prime Minister of Lebanon, Tourism Minister, Education Minister, Culture Minister aside to numerous social, political and religious Lebanese figures. | |||
* The "Wedding of the City" is a street carnival held in Sidon in the El-Fitr Muslim Holiday. The carnival runs for three consecutive days and is organized by the International Sidon Festivals Committee and the Hariri Foundation. The Carnival takes place on a 300-meter-long section of the Coastal Highway -extending between the ] and the Port- that gets closed and transformed into a Pedestrian-only zone. Last summer, the carnival attracted more than 30,000 spectators on its 3rd day. The carnival features European and Local Acrobats, giant floating balloons, exotic dancers, a light and sound show...etc. | |||
* Independence Day Celebrations. Sidon played a significant role in Lebanon's quest for Independence in the early 1940s whether through its nationalist politicians or through its citizens' protests and demonstrations demanding Independence. Hence, On 22 November of every year, Sidon celebrates Lebanon's Independence through a series of festivities that involve: a Military Parade in the Barracks of the Lebanese Army, an honorary reception in the city's serial held by the Governor, and a tribute to Sidong's independence figure Adel Osseiran. 2009's Independence day celebrations featured an extra festivity which is the erection of the largest Lebanese flag, on the city's northern entrance. | |||
* Prior to these events, the 1960s witnessed the famous "Spring Festival", especially during the Republican term of President ] and mainly under the direction of the illuminated Governor of the South Lebanon region (''muhãfaza''), Ghalib El-Turk. One of the main features of this festival was commemorated with a special edition stamp by the postal services in Lebanon in 1965. It shows the local mariners' boat converted into decorated small Phoenician ships, which took a large audience in formal dress (black-tie stylish gala of formal soirée attire) to the small island facing Sidon (the so-called "Zireh" or "Ziri" ] performed that evening, and she descended unto the floating sea-stage on a large model of a lit crescent moon, sparkling in this eastern Mediterranean summer night sky. These elegant features of the performing space and of the procession were at the time designed by the local artist Mohammad Mouhib El-Bizri (aka: Mouhib El-Bizri). The locals and visitors at the time thought of this festival as being akin to a "one thousand and one night" fairytale of glamour that was nonetheless done under a limited budget, and yet yielding a memorable spectacle of visual effects that many of the elderly of the city still recall to date. These festivals of the "belle époque" dwindled soon after the war of 1967 and were terminated by the early 1970, and none of the subsequent ceremonials lived up to these bygone standards in refinement and quality. | |||
'''Sidon I''' is an ] site located to the east of the city, south of the road to ]. An assemblage of ] tools was found by P. E. Gigues suggested to date between 3800 and 3200 BC. The collection included narrow ]s or ]s that were polished on one side and flaked on the other, similar to ones found at Ain Cheikh, Nahr Zahrani and Gelal en Namous.<ref name= CW/> The collection appears to have gone missing from the ].<ref>Gigues, P. E. (1937–1938), "Lébé'a, Kafer-Garra, Qrayé: nécropoles de la région sidonienne". ''BMB (Bulletin du Musée de Beyrouth)'', vol. 1, pp. 35–76, vol. 2, pp. 30–72, vol. 3, pp. 54–63.</ref> | |||
==Politics== | |||
]]] | |||
The sectarian division in Sidon is evident. Although the locals have found some sort of understanding to settle together and coexist, the division managed to rise to the surface on several occasions. The city proper is largely occupied by ] Muslims, while Christians dwell in the densely populated suburbs, forming an urban belt that encircles the city. ] Muslims live in a large hilly terrain that extends south of the city. | |||
'''Sidon II''' is said to be "near the church" at approximately fifty meters ]. P. E. Gigues suggested that the industry found on the surface of this site dated to the ].<ref name= CW/> | |||
This sectarian and demographic division rose to the surface during the ], when armed clashes erupted between the pro-Palestinian Sunni Muslims and the anti-Palestinian Christians. The clashes ended with the surrender of the Christian front, and the Christians were forced to move to east ]. After the war ended in 1990, the Christians have gradually returned to their hometowns. | |||
'''Sidon III''' was found by {{ill|E. Passemard |fr| Emmanuel Passemard}} in the 1920s, who made a collection of material that is now in the ] marked "Camp de l'Aviation". It includes large ] and ] bifacials that may be of ] origin.<ref name= CW/> | |||
The city of Sidon since the time of independence has been active in the political arena, especially in the period leading up to the end of the 20th century. It was the center of the 1958 uprising of the fishermen against the government of President Chamoun at the time. It was and continues to be a seat for the Nasserites, and it had a representation of a wide variety of political parties, Arab nationalism, Syrian nationalism, communists, and then a rise of Islamic movements. It was a key city for the P.L.O. during the Lebanese civil war. It clashed with the Syrian army in 1978 in joining ranks with the P.L.O. at the time, and then lived in relative peacefulness with the presence of the Syrian army till the 1980s. It then underwent severe hits during the 1982 Israeli invasion and fell under a brutal occupation. It was one of the first places in Lebanon to contribute to the earliest forms of resistance against the Israeli occupation. It was attacked by the Lebanese Forces militias in 1985 and was able to defend itself until the end of the Lebanese civil war. It was the city from which Rafic Hariri established his power in political and financial terms through initial reconstruction and charity work. The city of Sidon despite its open relation to modernity remained conservative, and like most political practices in Lebanon it is still ruled by families and the social as well as political networks they establish. | |||
'''Sidon IV''' is the ] mound of ancient Sidon with Early ] ({{Circa|3200 BC}}) deposits, now located underneath the ruined ] and what are also thought to be the ruins of a ] theater.<ref name= CW>{{cite book|author1=Lorraine Copeland|author2=P. Wescombe|title=Inventory of Stone-Age sites in Lebanon, p. 136|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=6YsRRwAACAAJ|year=1965|publisher=Imprimerie Catholique}}{{Dead link|date=April 2023 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref> | |||
The local politics of Sidon in the 20th century was mainly dominated up till the 1980s by allegiances around two main families, the ] and Saad, and then most powerfully afterwards by the ] family. The ] politicians were known for their business connections, close ties with eminent Lebanese and Levantine leaders, and their bent on serving the Lebanese state as government ministers, officials and mayors. The Saad politicians tended to be populist and became engaged in violent protests in the 1940s, 1950s and then during the Lebanese civil war as Nasserites (populist followers of ] in Lebanon). The local political conflict between these two families was always resolved through amicable means and ties of kinship. Their hold over the political aspects of the city was similar to that of Mediterranean families in Sicily or to being also influenced by the ties of Arab families, clans, and tribes in traditionalist forms. The most notable figures of the El-Bizri family in the first half of the 20th century were: Ahmad El-Bizri (born 1899), Salah El-Bizri, Eizeddine El-Bizri (commonly known as Eizzo) and Anwar El-Bizri (born 1910). These four brothers were businessmen and politicians who dominated the political life of the city up till the late 1940s, using traditional inherited forms of governance since Ottoman times. With intelligence and strength they maintained their power for over 50 years. It is from their ranks that Maarouf Saad started his public life, and their close cousins, Nazih El-Bizri (physician), Amin El-Bizri (architect and urban planner), and Fouad El-Bizri (engineer) became the next generation of politicians and statesmen in Lebanon; holding positions as ministers and members of parliament. The El-Bizri and the Saad political practices were bent on social justice and on local service in public affairs. The El-Bizri were since the Ottoman rule bent on serving the state, and this continued with their loyalty and support to the successive governments of Lebanon since the times of independence. They also helped eminent politicians and statesmen from Sidonian descent such as the Prime Ministers Riad Solh, Taki El-Din Solh and Rashid Solh, they also gave their support to former Prime Minister Saab Salam, father of the current Lebanese prime minister, Tamam Salam. The presence of the El-Bizris was at times intimidating on the local scene, but they were also known for their goodwill and dignified public service. The Saad family developed their links with Nasserism in the 1950s and engaged in the uprising and armed protest of 1958 against the government of the Lebanese President Chamoun. They also became involved in the civil war as part of the left wing politics of the Lebanon (Al-Haraka al-Wataniyya) with PLO connections, and they actively contributed to resisting the Israeli occupation after 1982. They remained populist in their politics and focused on the grassroots, while the El-Bizri were generally appealing to the middle and upper classes. In the middle 1980s, the Hariri family started to rise to prominence and it became the most influential in Sidon in political and financial terms, even though the presence of the Saad and the El-Bizri in local politics remained significant at the level of visibility and activism. The politics of Sidon is similar to that of the traditional old cities of the Levant in the sense of being family-based. In broad terms one could say that the El-Bizri family had an influence since Ottoman times, and then most significantly across almost the entirety of the 20th century. It was local in impact at first, but then the members of this family became influential within the Lebanese state and institutions, and they supported the Solh family that had successive Prime Ministers and that moved its power base from Sidon to Beirut. The Saad family developed its original politics from within the sphere of influence of the El-Bizri family and then became a power to reckon with on its own after 1948, and most powerfully in 1958, then in the civil war and up till today. Maarouf Saad, the leader of his family, and a local influential politician, was assassinated at the eve of the Lebanese civil war in 1975. The Saads retained their populism and grassroots appeal, and attracted a core of loyal adherents since the middle of the 20th century. While the El-Bizri were Levantine in their Arabism (namely focused mainly on Bilad al-Shaam in regional politics), and the Solh being also similar to them in this, the Saad were leaning more towards a broader pan-Arabism (Nasserite, Libyan, and then Syrian). As for the Hariri family, they are regionally focused on Saudi orientations in politics. The Hariri family started to rise to political and economic prominence in the 1980s and became perhaps the most influential family in Lebanon by the middle 1990s. It is now one of the most organized in political terms and it follows modern forms of political practice through a large party (Future Movement) that cuts across various economic classes but that is usually seen as a Sunni political movement with regional weight due to its close ties with Saudi Arabia. The Hariri family came to its political and financial height through the towering figure of ] who became a Prime Minister of the Lebanon in successive terms until his assassination in 2005. His son Saad became a Prime Minister and a leader of the Future Movement, and his sister Bahia a longstanding member of Parliament, while his oldest son, Bahaa focused on his international business with global impact as entrepreneur. The weight of the Hariri family is now measured at the regional and international scene in organizational levels unprecedented for local Sidonians in modern politics. | |||
===Bronze Age city and kingdom=== | |||
==Archaeology== | |||
====City of Sidon (Sidon IV site)==== | |||
'''Sidon I''' is an ] site located to the east of the city, south of the road to ]. An assemblage of ] tools was found by P. E. Gigues suggested to date between 3800 to 3200 BC. The collection included narrow ]s or ]s that were polished on one side and flaked on the other, similar to ones found at Ain Cheikh, Nahr Zahrani and Gelal en Namous.<ref name="CopelandWescombe1965"/> The collection appears to have gone missing from the ].<ref>Gigues, P.E., Leba'a, Kafer Garra et Qraye, nécropoles dde la région sidonienne. BMB, vol. 1, pp. 35–76, vol. 2, pp. 30–72, vol. 3, pp. 54–63.</ref> | |||
In the area of this ruined Crusader castle, recent excavations uncovered a late Early Bronze Age I (EB I) settlement on bedrock. Here, an uninterrupted sequence from EB I to EB III was found. A modest third-millennium BC settlement consisting of domestic installations and tombs was also uncovered.<ref>Doumet-Serhal, C. 2006. "The Early Bronze Age in Sidon: 'College Site' Excavations (1998–2000–2001)". ''Bibliothèque archeologique et historique'' 178. Beirut: Institut français du Proche-Orient</ref><ref name=":5">Doumet-Serhal, C. 2010. "Sidon during the Bronze Age: Burials, Rituals and Feasting Grounds at 'College Site{{'"}}. ''Near Eastern Archaeology'', 73:114–129.</ref> Yet the following history of Sidon was not clarified. Very little has been known about the location, extent, and significance of Middle Bronze Age (MBA) Sidon until recently.<ref name=":5" /> | |||
====Tell el-Burak MBA settlement==== | |||
'''Sidon II''' is said to be "near the church" at approximately fifty meters ]. P. E. Gigues suggested that the industry found on the surface of this site dated to the ].<ref name="CopelandWescombe1965"/> | |||
Since the early 21st century, ] excavations have helped significantly in this area, because it was an active settlement during MBA, and quite well preserved. Tell el-Burak is located along the coast 9 km south from Sidon. Previously, there was a big gap in the history of this whole coastal area from the end of the ] until the middle of the 2nd millennium BC, when Sidon is first mentioned in the historical texts.<ref name= Sader>{{cite journal |first1=Hélène |last1=Sader |first2=Jens |last2=Kamlah |date=2010 |url=https://www.researchgate.net/publication/261732734 |title=Tell el-Burak: A New Middle Bronze Age Site from Lebanon |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211110025908/https://www.researchgate.net/publication/261732734_Tell_el-Burak_A_new_Middle_Bronze_Age_Site_from_Lebanon |archive-date=10 November 2021 |journal=Near Eastern Archaeology |volume=73 |issue=2/3 |pages=130–141 |publisher=University of Chicago Press |doi=10.1086/NEA25754042 |via=ResearchGate }}</ref> | |||
====MBA kingdom of Sidon==== | |||
'''Sidon III''' was found by E. Passemard in the 1920s, who made a collection of material that is now in the ] marked "Camp de l'Aviation". It includes large ] and ] bifacials that may be of ] origin.<ref name="CopelandWescombe1965"/> | |||
Archaeologists determined that Sidon was clearly the big power centre during MBA, controlling significant territory. So there appears to have been the "Kingdom of Sidon" that controlled el-Burak, and many other surrounding areas.<ref name= Sader/> | |||
=== Excavation history === | |||
'''Sidon IV''' is the ] mound of ancient Sidon with Early ] (3200 BC -) deposits, now located underneath the ruined ] and what are also thought to be the ruins of a ] theatre.<ref name="CopelandWescombe1965">{{cite book|author1=Lorraine Copeland|author2=P. Wescombe|title=Inventory of Stone-Age sites in Lebanon, p. 136|url=http://books.google.com/books?id=6YsRRwAACAAJ|accessdate=21 July 2011|year=1965|publisher=Imprimerie Catholique}}</ref> | |||
The area around Sidon contains a number of important necropoli (below in order of age, and noting their principal excavators):<ref>Nina Jidéjian, , ''National Museum News'', page 24. {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210125093459/http://www.ahlebanon.com/images/PDF/Issue%2010%20-%20The%20Millenium%20Edition/Greater%20Sidon%20and%20its%20Cities%20Of%20The%20Dead%20-%20Nina%20Jidejian.pdf |date=25 January 2021 }}.</ref> | |||
* Dakerman (Roger Saidah, 1968–1969) | |||
* Tambourit (Saidah, 1977) | |||
* Magharet Abloun (], 1855; ], 1864; ], 1920) | |||
* Ayaa (William King Eddy, 1887; ], 1892; Contenau, 1920) | |||
* ] (], 1919–1920) | |||
* El-Merah (Contenau, 1920) | |||
* Qrayé (Contenau, 1920) | |||
* Almoun, (Conenau, 1924) | |||
* El-Harah (], 1904; Contenau, 1924) | |||
* Magharet Abloun, Greco-Roman part (Renan, 1864; Contenau, 1914–1924) | |||
* Helalié/Baramié/Mar Elias (], 1816; Renan 1864; Contenau, 1914; M. Meurdrac & L. Albanèse, 1938–1939) | |||
In indication of the high-profile of the old city of Sidon in archaeological expeditions, and mainly in the 19th century, in October 1860 the famous French scholar ] was entrusted with an archaeological mission to Lebanon, which included the search for the antique parts of Sidon. The Phoenician inscriptions that he discovered, and his field data, were eventually published in his notebook the: ''Mission de Phénicie'' (1864–1874; ''Phoenician Expedition''). | In indication of the high-profile of the old city of Sidon in archaeological expeditions, and mainly in the 19th century, in October 1860 the famous French scholar ] was entrusted with an archaeological mission to Lebanon, which included the search for the antique parts of Sidon. The Phoenician inscriptions that he discovered, and his field data, were eventually published in his notebook the: ''Mission de Phénicie'' (1864–1874; ''Phoenician Expedition''). | ||
The St. Louis |
The ] grounds were excavated in 1914–1920 by a French team.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Sidon Excavation {{!}} Sidon Excavation |url=https://www.sidonexcavation.com/ |access-date=2024-05-28 |language=en}}</ref> Then eastwards a new site was also excavated by another generation of French expeditions in the 1960s. This same site received renewed attention in 1998 when the ] in Lebanon authorized the ] to begin excavations on this area of land that was specifically demarcated for archaeological research. This has resulted in published papers, with a special focus on studying ceramics.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.sidonexcavation.org/ht_d_pre/ht_d_pre1.html |title=Previous Excavation |publisher=SidonExcavation |access-date=26 January 2013 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20020419074213/http://www.sidonexcavation.org/ht_d_pre/ht_d_pre1.html |archive-date=19 April 2002}}</ref> | ||
The archaeological fieldwork was not fully undertaken since the independence of the Lebanon. The main finds are displayed in the National Museum in Beirut. The fieldwork was also interrupted during the long civil war period, and it is now resumed but at a timid and slow scale, and not involving major international expeditions or expertise. Perhaps this is also indicative of the general lack in cultural interests among the authorities of this city, and almost of the non-existence of notable intellectual activities in its modern life. There are signs that the locals are beginning to |
The archaeological fieldwork was not fully undertaken since the independence of the Lebanon. The main finds are displayed in the ]. The fieldwork was also interrupted during the long civil war period, and it is now resumed but at a timid and slow scale, and not involving major international expeditions or expertise. Perhaps this is also indicative of the general lack in cultural interests among the authorities of this city, and almost of the non-existence of notable intellectual activities in its modern life. There are signs that the locals are beginning to recognize the value of the medieval quarters, but this remains linked to minor individual initiatives and not a coordinated collective effort to rehabilitate it like it has been the case with ], even though the old district of Sidon contains a great wealth in old and ancient architecture. | ||
During the ], ] gave enhanced protection to 34 cultural sites in Lebanon including the archaeological sites at Sidon to safeguard them from ].<ref>{{Cite news |title=Cultural property under enhanced protection Lebanon |url=https://www.unesco.org/en/culture/cultural-property-under-enhanced-protection-lebanon |archive-url=http://web.archive.org/web/20241231104017/https://www.unesco.org/en/culture/cultural-property-under-enhanced-protection-lebanon |archive-date=2024-12-31 |access-date=2025-01-01 |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news |title=Lebanon: 34 cultural properties placed under enhanced protection |url=https://www.unesco.org/en/articles/lebanon-34-cultural-properties-placed-under-enhanced-protection |archive-url=http://web.archive.org/web/20241227163437/https://www.unesco.org/en/articles/lebanon-34-cultural-properties-placed-under-enhanced-protection |archive-date=2024-12-27 |access-date=2025-01-01 |language=en}}</ref> | |||
==The Biblical Sidon== | |||
] and ] inside the Old City of Sidon.]] | |||
The Bible describes Sidon in several passages: | |||
* It received its name from the "first-born" of ], the grandson of ] (] 10:15, 19). | |||
* The ] has a frontier on Sidon. (Gen. 49:13) | |||
* It was the first home of the ]ns on the coast of Canaan, and from its extensive commercial relations became a "great" city. (Joshua 11:8; 19:28). | |||
* It was the mother city of ]. It lay within the lot of the tribe of Asher, but was never subdued (Judges 1:31). | |||
* The Sidonians long oppressed ] (Judges 10:12). | |||
* From the time of ] its glory began to wane, and ], its "virgin daughter" (Isaiah 23:12), rose to its place of pre-eminence. | |||
* ] entered into a matrimonial alliance with the Sidonians, and thus their form of idolatrous worship found a place in the ] (1 Kings 11:1, 33). | |||
* ] was a Sidonian princess (1 Kings 16:31). | |||
* It was famous for its manufactures and arts, as well as for its commerce (1 Kings 5:6; 1 Chronicles 22:4; Ezekiel 27:8). | |||
* It is frequently referred to by the prophets (Isaiah 23:2, 4, 12; Jeremiah 25:22; 27:3; 47:4; Ezekiel 27:8; 28:21, 22; 32:30; Joel 3:4). | |||
* ] sojourned in Sidon, performing miracles (1 Kings 17:9–24; {{bibleref|Luke|4:26}}). | |||
* Jesus visited the "coasts" of ] and Sidon ({{bibleref|Matthew|15:21}}; {{bibleref|Mark|7:24}}) and from this region many came forth to hear him preaching (Mark 3:8; Luke 6:17), leading to the stark contrast in {{bibleref|Matthew|11:21–23}} to Korazin and Bethsaida. | |||
* From Sidon, at which the ship put in after leaving ], ] finally sailed for Rome (Acts 27:3, 4). | |||
== |
==In the Bible== | ||
] and ] inside the Old City of Sidon]] | |||
* The account ascribed to the Phoenician historian ] makes Sidon a daughter of Pontus, son of ]. She is said there to have first invented musical song from the sweetness of her voice. | |||
===Hebrew Bible/Old Testament=== | |||
==International relations== | |||
The ] describes Sidon ({{Script/Hebrew|צִידוֹן|Tsīdōn}}) in several passages: | |||
* It received its name from the "first-born" of ], the grandson of ] ({{bibleverse|Genesis|10:15}}, {{bibleref2-nb|Genesis|19}}). | |||
* The ] has a frontier on Sidon<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Klein |first=Reuven Chaim (Rudolph) |date=April 2018 |title=Nations and Super-Nations of Canaan |url=https://tobias-lib.ub.uni-tuebingen.de/xmlui/bitstream/handle/10900/148214/jbq_462_kleincanaan.pdf |journal=Jewish Bible Quarterly | issn=0792-3910 |volume=46 |issue=2 |pages=84}} cites ] and ] as reading that verse as saying that the city of Sidon itself was not said to be part of Zebulun's territory, while the medieval exgete ] understood that it was.</ref> ({{bibleverse|Genesis|49:13}}) | |||
* It was the first home of the ]ns on the coast of Canaan, and from its extensive commercial relations became a "great" city ({{bibleverse|Joshua|11:8}}, {{bibleref2-nb|Joshua|19:28}}). | |||
* It was the mother city of ]. It lay within the lot of the tribe of Asher, but was never subdued ({{bibleverse|Judges|1:31}}). | |||
* The Sidonians long oppressed ] ({{bibleverse|Judges|10:12}}). | |||
* From the time of ] its glory began to wane, and ], its "virgin daughter" ({{bibleverse|Isaiah|23:12}}), rose to its place of pre-eminence. | |||
* ] entered into a matrimonial alliance with the Sidonians, and thus their form of idolatrous worship found a place in the ] ({{bibleverse|1 Kings|11:1}}, {{bibleref2-nb|1 Kings|33}}). | |||
* ] was the daughter of King ] of Sidon ({{bibleverse|1 Kings|16:31}}). | |||
* It was famous for its manufactures and arts, as well as for its commerce ({{bibleverse|1 Kings|5:6}}; {{bibleverse|1 Chronicles|22:4}}; {{bibleverse|Ezekiel|27:8}}). | |||
* It is frequently referred to by the prophets ({{bibleverse|Isaiah|23:2}}, {{bibleref2-nb|Isaiah|4}}, {{bibleref2-nb|Isaiah|12}}; {{bibleverse|Jeremiah|25:22}}, {{bibleref2-nb|Jeremiah|27:3}}, {{bibleref2-nb|Jeremiah|47:4}}; {{bibleverse|Ezekiel|27:8}}, {{bibleref2-nb|Ezekiel|28:21}}, {{bibleref2-nb|Ezekiel|22}}, {{bibleref2-nb|Ezekiel|32:30}}; {{bibleverse|Joel|3:4}}). | |||
* ] sojourned in Sidon, performing miracles ({{bibleverse|1 Kings|17:9–24}}; see also in the New Testament, {{bibleverse|Luke|4:26}}). | |||
=== |
===New Testament=== | ||
* Jesus visited the region or "coasts" (]) of ] and Sidon ({{bibleverse|Matthew|15:21}}; {{bibleverse|Mark|7:24}}) and from this region many came forth to hear him preaching ({{bibleverse|Mark|3:8}}; {{bibleverse|Luke|6:17}}), leading to the stark contrast in {{bibleverse|Matthew|11:21–23}} to ] and ]. See the ], which takes place on the coast, in the region of Sidon and ]. Then he returned from the region of Tyre, and went by way of Sidon towards the ], in the region of the ] ({{bibleverse|Mark|7:31}}) | |||
{{See also|List of twin towns and sister cities in Lebanon}} | |||
* From Sidon, at which his ship put in after leaving ], ] finally sailed for Rome ({{bibleverse|Acts|27:3}}, {{bibleref2-nb|Acts|4}}). | |||
==In ancient mythology== | |||
Sidon is twinned with: | |||
* The account ascribed to the Phoenician historian ] makes Sidon a daughter of ], son of ]. She is said there to have first invented musical song from the sweetness of her voice. | |||
* ], Romania | |||
* ], Bulgaria | |||
* ], Russia | |||
== |
== Gallery == | ||
<gallery> | |||
In the Modern Era (from the start of the 20th century to the present with political and/or business prominence); in alphabetical order: | |||
File:Port of Sidon 19th Century.jpg|Port of Sidon, 19th century | |||
File:The castle and the harbour of Saida, the ancient Sidon-colored.jpg|The castle and the harbour of Saida, the ancient Sidon | |||
File:Sidon Castle, Sidon, Lebanon.jpg|Sidon Castle | |||
File:Sidon, Sarcophagus relief of a boat.jpg|Sidon, Sarcophagus relief of a boat | |||
File:Sidon College site.jpg|Sidon College site | |||
File:Sidon Stadium.jpg|Sidon Stadium | |||
File:Sidon, Lebanon, Panorama.jpg|Sidon, Lebanon, Panorama | |||
File:Mosque, Sidon, Lebanon.jpg|Mosque, Sidon | |||
File:صيدا - صورة جوية قديمة.tif|صيدا - صورة جوية قديمة | |||
File:Sidon2009b.JPG|Mosque | |||
File:5,Sidon, vue meridionale.jpg|Sidon, vue meridionale | |||
File:Saida Map.jpg|alt=|Sidon District Map | |||
</gallery> | |||
==International relations== | |||
* ] family lived in Sidon in the late 19th century up till middle of the 20th century (Ottoman/Egyptian aristocracy) | |||
===Twin towns and sister cities=== | |||
* Al-Raii-not originally from Sidon | |||
{{Main|List of twin towns and sister cities in Asia#Lebanon}} | |||
* Baba | |||
* Darazi | |||
* El Assi | |||
* ] | |||
* El-Bsat | |||
* ] | |||
* El Natout | |||
* El-Yaman | |||
* El-Zaatari | |||
* El Tawil | |||
* Hammoud | |||
* ] | |||
* Hashisho | |||
* Jebaily | |||
* ]—not originally from Sidon | |||
* Moghrabi | |||
* Naffa-not originally from Sidon. | |||
* ]—not originally from Sidon | |||
* Saad | |||
* ] | |||
* Shamma' | |||
* Shreiteh | |||
* ] | |||
* Zeidan | |||
*] | |||
==Notable people== | ==Notable people== | ||
===In antiquity and the pre-modern era=== | |||
Chronological list. | |||
* ] (1st century BC) Greek astrologer associated with Sidon. | |||
* ], an Epicurean philosopher of the 1st century BC (c. 150 – c. 75 BC), who was born in the city of Sidon in Phoenicia. | |||
* ] (2nd century BC): Poet | |||
* ] (c. 75 – c. 10 BC): ] philosopher | |||
* Early-Christian martyrs, Zenobius and his sister Zenobia, executed under ], 3rd century AD | |||
* Boulos (Paul) al-Rahib, Melchite Bishop and scholar of the 13th century AD | |||
* ], Melkite Catholic Bishop of Sidon and Tyre, 1643–1723 | |||
* ], character from Greek mythology. In Homer, Eumaeus tells of having been kidnapped as child from Sidon, where his father was the king. | |||
(From late antiquity, across the Middle Ages, and up till the modern era, these seem to have been periods of intellectual demise, with no notable figures to mention. The 20th century continues this trend and it is dominated by local politicians and by activists, and it is very rare to name notable intellectuals, artists or literary figures with international and established profiles): | |||
* ] (2nd century BC), poet | |||
* ] ({{Circa|150|75 BC}}), Epicurean philosopher born in Sidon | |||
* ] (1st century BC) Greek astrologer associated with Sidon | |||
* ] ({{circa|75|10 BC}}), ] philosopher | |||
* ], Roman soldier who, according to his grave found in Germany in the 19th century, was born in Sidon | |||
* ], early-Christian martyrs executed around AD 290 under ] | |||
* ] (1643–1723), Melkite Catholic Bishop of Sidon and Tyre | |||
* ] (born 1232 AH = 1817 AD; died 1307 AH = 1889 AD), faqih, Islamic scholar, writer, poet, linguist, and journalist | |||
===In the modern era=== | |||
'''In the Modern Era''' (from the start of the 20th century), in alphabetical order by family name: | |||
<!-- Please maintain alphabetical order by family name. --> | |||
* Subhi Bek Abaza, Ottoman era dignitary and activist between Istanbul and Lebanon (''Turkiya al-fatat''? ]; ''Jön Türkler''), linked to the famous ], late 19th century till c. 1912 | |||
* ] (Al-Rawwass), well-known Arab singer formerly based in Egypt. | |||
* ] (Al-Rawwass), Arab singer formerly based in Egypt | |||
* Ahmad Al-Assir, former Imam of Masjid Bilal Bin Rabah in the Abra suburb. He was a critic of Hizbullah, and became a fugitive after fighting the Lebanese army in 2013. | |||
* ], international banker with honourable distinctions, and former Minister of Refugees in the government of ]. | |||
* ], local authority in the first half of the 20th century, an eminent businessman and politician. | |||
* ], (known also as 'Ezzo) local authority in the first half of the 20th century, an eminent businessman and politician. | |||
* ], influential mayor in the first half of the 20th century, an eminent businessman and politician. | |||
* ], (Afif ]) former Chief of Staff of the Syrian armed forces with a high-standing military rank and political profile during the Syria-Egypt republican union of the ] era. | * ], (Afif ]) former Chief of Staff of the Syrian armed forces with a high-standing military rank and political profile during the Syria-Egypt republican union of the ] era. | ||
* ], former Minister of |
* ], international banker, and former Minister of Refugees in the government of Lebanon (Originally Palestinian) | ||
* ], contemporary male belly dancer | |||
* ], head of the Lebanese Union of Engineers and Architects, President of the Arab Federation of Engineers, former minister of housing in several Lebanese governments, and a major architect who was an apprentice of ]. | |||
* |
* Nazih El Bizri, longstanding politician: mayor of Sidon from 1952 till 1959, Member of Lebanese Parliament from 1953 till 1958 and from 1972 till 1992. Lebanese Minister of Health, and Minister of Social Affairs from 1955 till 1956, then from 1972 till 1973, and from 1980 till 1982. | ||
* ], filmmaker, producer, professor | |||
* ], former mayor of Sidon (son of Nazih El-Bizri); an active local politician, and also a faculty member at the ] medical school. | |||
* ], philosopher, architect | |||
* ], Philosopher, Architect, and prolific Scholar with a leading international academic and intellectual profile. | |||
* The Four Brothers - Riad El Bizri's Sons: | |||
* Bahaa Bsat, former President of the Order of Engineers and Architects in ] and former president of the "Maqasid" distinguished old school in Sidon. | |||
** Ahmad El-Bizri, Salah-Eddine El-Bizri (Mayor of Sidon from 1937 till 1951. Member of Parliament from 1951 till 1953), Ezzedine El-Bizri, Anwar El-Bizri. | |||
* Emile Bustani, one of Lebanon's entrepreneurial and philanthropist stars in the first half of the 20th century. Founder of an intentional petroleum company and of CAT. Raised as orphan by American missionaries at the Gerard Institute in Sidon at the beginnings of the 20th century. | |||
* ], former Minister of Education in the governments of Lebanon and philanthropist | |||
* ], MD, Founder of Hammoud Hospital University Medical Center, the main medical institution in modern Sidon. | |||
* ], former |
* ], former Prime Minister, billionaire and international businessman | ||
* ], international businessman and billionaire, son of Rafic Hariri | |||
* ], former Minister of Education in the governments of ] and philanthropist. Bahia Hariri is the only sister of the late Prime Minister ]. Presently, Bahia Hariri is a member of the ] as she was re-elected in June 2009. | |||
* ], youngest former Prime Minister of Lebanon |
* ], youngest former Prime Minister of Lebanon | ||
* ] (born 1994), Lebanese footballer<ref>{{Cite web|title=Ahmad Hijazi - Soccer player profile & career statistics - Global Sports Archive|url=https://globalsportsarchive.com/people/soccer/ahmad-hijazi/333527/|access-date=2020-11-23|website=globalsportsarchive.com|archive-date=24 April 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210424220530/https://globalsportsarchive.com/people/soccer/ahmad-hijazi/333527/|url-status=live}}</ref> | |||
* ], international businessman and billionaire, son of Rafic Hariri. | |||
* ], co-founder of modern Lebanon, was a prominent Lebanese statesman, a former Speaker of the Lebanese Parliament, and one of the founding fathers of the Lebanese Republic. | |||
* Ahmad Hariri, young leader in the Hariri ] and son of Bahia Hariri. | |||
* ], Jaafari Mufti of Sidon | |||
* Ibrahim El-Mallah, international businessman and entrepreneur largely invested in Sidon. | |||
* ], Member of Parliament and Former Minister | |||
* Hamzi Moghrabi, Civil & Environmental Engineer, Founder and President of IBC Corp. the brainchild behind the waste processing plant in Sidon. | |||
* ], former deputy representing Sidon in the national parliament and founder of the Popular Nasserite Party | |||
* ], co-founder of modern ] a highly eminent leading figure in Lebanon's 20th-century history, participated in securing Lebanon's independence from the French mandate. | |||
* ], former Prime Minister of Lebanon, minister of finance, and member of parliament | |||
* Ali Osseiran, Member of Parliament and former Minister. | |||
* ], |
* ], former Prime Minister of ] | ||
* ], former Prime Minister of Lebanon | |||
* Hiba Al-Qawwas, Lebanon's leading Soprano. | |||
* ] (born 1950), former ] member; lived in Sidon during his childhood (d. 1990) | |||
* ], former deputy representing Sidon in the national parliament and founder of the Popular Nasserite Party. Influential local leader, assassinated in 1975 at the eve of the Lebanese civil war. | |||
* ] (born 1995), Lebanese footballer<ref>{{Cite web|title=Hussein Zein - Soccer player profile & career statistics - Global Sports Archive|url=https://globalsportsarchive.com/people/soccer/hussein-zein/89019/|access-date=2020-11-23|website=globalsportsarchive.com|archive-date=23 September 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200923214039/https://globalsportsarchive.com/people/soccer/hussein-zein/89019//|url-status=live}}</ref> | |||
* ], son of Maarouf Saad, popular Nasserite politician, and former deputy representing Sidon in the national parliament. | |||
* ], son of Maarouf Saad, Nasserite politician, and former deputy representing Sidon in the national parliament. | |||
* ], former Prime Minister of ] and minister of finance, a longstanding member of parliament, and main leader in the future movement. | |||
* Rida Bek Solh, Ottoman era dignitary, late 19th century/early 20th century | |||
* ], former Prime Minister of ] a highly eminent leading figure in Lebanon's 20th-century history, participated in securing Lebanon's independence from the French mandate. | |||
* ], former Prime Minister of ], and a leading figure in Lebanese politics; died in Paris. | |||
* ], former Prime Minister of ], and a leading figure in Lebanese politics. | |||
* ], former Prime Minister of ], and a leading figure in Lebanese politics. | |||
* Ali Zaatari (al-Haj Ali Zaatari), leading early to the middle of the 20th-century businessman, landlord and agriculture entrepreneur, built a fortune with his brothers and sons. | |||
* Ahmad 'Arif Al-Zein, an early 20th-century Sheikh and eminent Islamic jurist-scholar, an educator and journalist who founded the learned "'Irfan" magazine. | |||
* Sulayman Al-Zein, former Minister of Education. | |||
* Dania Dada, Junior officer - Fixed assets and project costing, Bank Audi. | |||
==See also== | ==See also== | ||
{{Portal|Lebanon}} | {{Portal|Lebanon}} | ||
* {{Annotated link|Abdalonymus}} | |||
* ] (Ottoman era) | |||
* {{Annotated link|Amarna letter EA 144}} | |||
* ] | |||
* {{Annotated link|King of Sidon}} | |||
* ] | |||
* {{Annotated link|Royal necropolis of Ayaa}} | |||
* ] | |||
* {{Annotated link|Sarcophagus of Eshmunazar II}} | |||
* ] | |||
* {{Annotated link|Sidon Eyalet}} | |||
* {{Annotated link|Sidon Mithraeum}} | |||
* {{Annotated link|Temple of Eshmun}} | |||
== Notes == | |||
{{notelist}} | |||
==References== | ==References== | ||
{{Reflist}} | {{Reflist}} | ||
* {{eastons}} | |||
==Sources== | |||
* Additional notes taken from ''Collier's Encyclopedia'' (1967 edition) | |||
* {{EBD|wstitle=Sidon}} | |||
* Additional notes taken from '']'' (1967 edition) | |||
* {{Cite book |last=Briant |first=Pierre |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=lxQ9W6F1oSYC |title=From Cyrus to Alexander: A history of the Persian Empire |date=2002 |publisher=Eisenbrauns |isbn=9781575061207 |location=Winona Lake, IN |pages= |language=en}} | |||
* {{Cite journal |last=Elayi |first=Josette |author-link=Josette Elayi |date=1997 |title=Pouvoirs locaux et organisation du territoire des cités phéniciennes sous l'Empire perse achéménide |trans-title=Local authorities and organization of the territory of the Phoenician cities under the Persian Achaemenid Empire |url=https://revistas.uned.es/index.php/ETFII/article/download/4303/4142/7668 |url-status=live |journal=Espacio, Tiempo y Forma |series=2, Historia antigua |language=fr |publisher=Editorial ] |volume=10 |pages=63–77 |oclc=758903288 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20231004193215/https://revistas.uned.es/index.php/ETFII/article/download/4303/4142/7668 |archive-date=4 October 2023}} | |||
* {{cite book |last=Runciman |first=Steven |year=1987 |title=A History of the Crusades |volume=3: ''The Kingdom of Acre and the Later Crusades'' |publisher=Cambridge University Press |isbn=9780521347723}} | |||
* {{Cite book |last=Tucker |first=Spencer C. |year=2019 |title=Middle East Conflicts from Ancient Egypt to the 21st Century: An Encyclopedia and Document Collection |publisher=ABC-CLIO |isbn=978-1-440-85353-1}} | |||
==Further reading== | |||
{{Library resources box |by=no |onlinebooks=yes |others=yes |about=yes |label=Sidon |viaf= |lcheading= |wikititle= }} | |||
* ] (2001). ''The Phoenicians and the West: Politics, Colonies and Trade''. 2nd ed. Translated by Mary Turton. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press. | |||
* Markoe, Glenn (2000). "Phoenicians". Vol. 2: ''Peoples of the Past''. Berkeley, Cal.: University of California Press. | |||
* Moscati, Sabatino (1999). ''The World of the Phoenicians''. London: Phoenix Giant. | |||
==External links== | ==External links== | ||
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{{Heavy Neolithic sites}} | {{Heavy Neolithic sites}} | ||
{{Phoenician cities and colonies navbox}} | {{Phoenician cities and colonies navbox}} | ||
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Latest revision as of 06:50, 4 January 2025
Capital city of South Governorate, Lebanon For other uses, see Sidon (disambiguation).This article needs additional citations for verification. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Sidon" – news · newspapers · books · scholar · JSTOR (December 2023) (Learn how and when to remove this message) |
City in South Governorate, Lebanon
Sidon صيدا | |
---|---|
City | |
Sidon's Sea Castle | |
SidonLocation in LebanonShow map of LebanonSidonSidon (West and Central Asia)Show map of West and Central Asia | |
Coordinates: 33°33′38″N 35°22′33″E / 33.56056°N 35.37583°E / 33.56056; 35.37583 | |
Country | Lebanon |
Governorate | South Governorate |
District | Sidon District |
Settled | 3rd millennium BC |
Area | |
• City | 3.02 sq mi (7.82 km) |
• Metro | 10 sq mi (25 km) |
Population | |
• City | ~80,000 |
• Metro | ~266,000 |
Time zone | UTC+2 (EET) |
• Summer (DST) | UTC+3 (EEST) |
Area code | 07 |
Sidon (/ˈsaɪdən/ SY-dən) or Saida (/ˈsaɪdə, ˈsɑːɪdə/ SY-də, SAH-id-ə; Arabic: صيدا, romanized: Ṣaydā) is the third-largest city in Lebanon. It is located on the Mediterranean coast in the South Governorate, of which it is the capital. Tyre, to the south, and the Lebanese capital of Beirut, to the north, are both about 40 kilometres (25 miles) away. Sidon has a population of about 80,000 within the city limits, while its metropolitan area has more than a quarter-million inhabitants.
Etymology
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ḏjdwnꜣ in hieroglyphs | ||||||
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Era: New Kingdom (1550–1069 BC) | ||||||
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ḏddwnꜣ in hieroglyphs | ||||||
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The Phoenician name Ṣīdūn (𐤑𐤃𐤍, ṢDN) probably meant "fishery" or "fishing town". It is mentioned in Papyrus Anastasi I as ḏjdwnꜣ. It appears in Biblical Hebrew as Ṣīḏōn (Hebrew: צִידוֹן) and in Syriac as Ṣidon (ܨܝܕܘܢ). This was Hellenised as Sidṓn (Ancient Greek: Σιδών), which was Latinised as Sidon and entered English in this form. The name appears in Classical Arabic as Ṣaydūn (صَيْدونْ) and in Modern Arabic as Ṣaydā (صَيْدَا).
As a Roman colony, it was notionally refounded and given the formal name Colonia Aurelia Pia Sidon to honour its imperial sponsor.
During the crusades, Sidon was known in Latin as Sagittus and in Old French as Saete, Sayette or Sagette.
In the Book of Genesis, Sidon was the first-born son of Canaan, who was a son of Ham, thereby making Sidon a great-grandson of Noah.
History
Main article: History of SidonIn antiquity, Sidon held prominence as a significant Phoenician city. Nestled on a mainland promontory and boasting two harbors. Throughout ancient history, Sidon had many conquerors: Assyrians, Babylonians, Egyptians, Persians, Greeks, and finally Romans. Under Persian rule, it eclipsed Tyre to become the paramount city in Phoenicia. In the New Testament era, Herod the Great visited Sidon. Both Jesus and Saint Paul are said to have visited it, too (see Biblical Sidon below). The city was eventually conquered by the Arabs and then by the Ottoman Turks.
Prehistory
Sidon has been inhabited since very early in prehistory. The archaeological site of Sidon II shows a lithic assemblage dating to the Acheulean, whilst finds at Sidon III include a Heavy Neolithic assemblage suggested to date just prior to the invention of pottery.
Late Bronze
Around 1350 BC, Sidon was part of the Egyptian Empire and ruled by Zimredda of Sidon. During the Amarna Period, Egypt went into decline, leading to uprising and turmoil in the Levant. There was rivalry between Lebanese coastal city-states fighting for dominance, with Abimilku of Tyre in the south, and Rib-Hadda of Byblos in the north. Byblos became significantly weakened as the dominant city on the Lebanese coast. Further north, the Akkar Plain rebelled and became the kingdom of Amurru with Hittite support. The Mitanni Empire, an ally of the Egyptians, had dominated Syria but now fell apart due to the military campaigns of Suppiluliuma I of Hatti. Tutankhamun and his general Horemheb scrambled to keep Egyptian control over southern Levant, as the Hittites became overlords in the north.
The oldest testimony documenting words in the Phoenician language of Sidon, is also from this period. The Book of Deuteronomy (3, 9) reads: "the Sidonians call Hermon Sirion". In other words: Mount Hermon was called "Sirion", in (the Phoenician language of) Sidon.
Iron Age
Main articles: Phoenicia, Canaan, and King of SidonSidon was one of the most important Phoenician cities, and it may have been the oldest. From there and other ports, a great Mediterranean commercial empire was founded. Homer praised the skill of its craftsmen in producing glass, purple dyes, and its women's skill at the art of embroidery. It was also from here that a colonising party went to found the city of Tyre. Tyre also grew into a great city, and in subsequent years there was competition between the two, each claiming to be the metropolis ('Mother City') of Phoenicia.
During the Phoenician era, Sidon thrived on two pivotal industries: glass manufacturing and purple dye production. The city's glass production operated on an extensive scale, while the manufacturing of purple dye held nearly equal importance. The magnitude of Sidon's purple dye production was evident through a considerable mound of discarded Murex trunculus shells discovered near the southern harbor. These shells were broken to extract the precious pigment, so rare that it became synonymous with royalty.
In AD 1855, the sarcophagus of King Eshmun’azar II was discovered. From a Phoenician inscription on its lid, it appears that he was a "king of the Sidonians," probably in the 5th century BC, and that his mother was a priestess of ‘Ashtart, "the goddess of the Sidonians." In this inscription the gods Eshmun and Ba‘al Sidon 'Lord of Sidon' (who may or may not be the same) are mentioned as chief gods of the Sidonians. ‘Ashtart is entitled ‘Ashtart-Shem-Ba‘al, '‘Ashtart the name of the Lord', a title also found in an Ugaritic text.
Nebuchadnezzar II subjugated the city to be part of the Neo-Babylonian Empire. Sidon's navy played a significant role in the Battle of Salamis in 480 BC, aligning with the Persian fleet against the Greeks. From the mid-fifth century BC onward, warships became a prominent feature on the city's coinage. At the end of the Persian era, in 351 BC, Phoenicia was invaded by Artaxerxes III.
Persian and Hellenistic periods
Like other Phoenician city-states, Sidon suffered from a succession of conquerors, first by the Achaemenid Empire in the 6th century BC, ending with its occupation by Alexander the Great in 333 BC, and the start of the Hellenistic period of Sidon's history. The Persian influence seems to have been profound, as is observed in the change of the architectural style of the city. In exchange for supporting his conquest of Egypt, King Cambyses II of Persia awarded Sidon with the territories of Dor, Joppa, and the Plain of Sharon.
Under the Diadochi or successors of Alexander, it enjoyed relative autonomy and organised games and competitions in which the greatest athletes of the region participated. In the Hellenistic period necropolis of Sidon, important finds such as the Alexander Sarcophagus (likely the tomb of King Abdalonymus rather than Alexander), the Lycian tomb and the Sarcophagus of the Crying Women were discovered, which are now on display at the Archaeological Museum of Istanbul.
Roman period
When Sidon fell under Roman domination, it continued to mint its own silver coins. The city was embellished by Herod, king of Judaea, who built there a theatre. By the First Jewish–Roman War, Sidon sheltered enough Jews that local pagans hesitated to attack them during the broader massacre of Jews in Greco-Syrian towns in 66 CE, as documented by Josephus.
The Romans built a theater and other major monuments in the city, and an underground Mithraeum was discovered. In the reign of Elagabalus, a Roman colony was established there. During the Byzantine Empire, when the great earthquake of AD 551 destroyed most of the cities of Phoenice, the law school of Berytus took refuge in Sidon. The town continued quietly for the next century, until the Muslim conquest of the Levant in 636.
Crusader-Ayyubid period
On 4 December 1110, Sidon was captured after the siege of Sidon, a decade after the First Crusade, by King Baldwin I of Jerusalem and King Sigurd I of Norway. It then became the center of the Lordship of Sidon, an important vassal-state of the Kingdom of Jerusalem. Saladin captured it from the Crusaders in 1187, but German Crusaders restored it to Christian control in the Crusade of 1197. It remained an important Crusader stronghold until it was destroyed by the Ayyubids in 1249. In 1260, it was again destroyed by the Mongols led by Kitbuqa. The remains of the original walls are still visible.
During the 12th century, Benjamin of Tudela noted the presence of approximately twenty Jews, possibly families, in Sidon, which he described as a "large city."
Ottoman period
After Sidon came under Ottoman Turkish rule in the early 16th century, it became the capital of the Sidon Eyalet (province) and regained a great deal of its earlier commercial importance. In 1521, Moses Basola encountered twenty families of Musta'rabi Jews during his visit to Sidon.
During the 18th century, the city was dominated by the Hammud family of notables, who monopolized the production and exporting of cotton in the region and built numerous palaces and public works in the city. The Hammuds also served as government customs agents and tax collectors for various Ottoman religious foundations.
During the Egyptian–Ottoman War, Sidon, like much of Ottoman Syria, was occupied by the forces of Muhammad Ali of Egypt. His ambitions were opposed by the British Empire, which backed the Ottomans. The British Admiral Charles Napier, commanding a mixed squadron of British, Turkish and Austrian ships, bombarded Sidon on 26 September 1840, and landed with a column. Sidon capitulated in two days, and the British went on to Acre. This action was recalled in two Royal Navy vessels being named HMS Sidon.
The 19th century brought significant changes to the Jewish community of Sidon. By 1830, the community, comprising around twenty-five families of primarily Arabic-speaking merchants, had customs akin to those of Judean Jews. Starting in 1850, the community witnessed growth as Maghrebi Jews, initially settled in the Chouf Mountains above Beirut, migrated to Sidon and Beirut amidst escalating Druze-Maronite tensions and the ensuing 1860 war. With roots in mountain traditions, they introduced citrus cultivation on the outskirts of Sidon, leading to the construction of a new synagogue in 1860 to meet the needs of the expanding community.
From 1887 the Royal necropolis of Sidon was extensively excavated by the Ottomans, and its treasures transferred to Istanbul (like the Alexander sarcophagus). Sidon was a small fishing town of 10,000 inhabitants in 1900.
After World War I
After World War I it became part of the French Mandate of Lebanon. During World War II the city, together with the rest of Lebanon, was captured by British forces fighting against the Vichy French, and following the war it became a major city of independent Lebanon. Following the 1948 Palestinian expulsion and flight, Palestinian refugees arrived in Sidon, as in other Lebanese cities, and were settled at the large refugee camps of Ein el-Hilweh and Mieh Mieh. At first these consisted of enormous rows of tents, but gradually houses were constructed. The refugee camps constituted de facto neighborhoods of Sidon, but had a separate legal and political status which made them into a kind of enclaves. At the same time, the remaining Jews of the city fled, and the Jewish cemetery fell into disrepair, threatened by coastal erosion.
On Easter Sunday, 19 April 1981, at least sixteen people were killed in Sidon after the (South Lebanon Army) SLA's long-range artillery indiscriminately shelled the city centre. It was reported that it was in response to a request from Bashir Gemayel in connection with ongoing Syrian attacks on Phalangist positions around Zahle. Israel denied involvement. After the 1982 Israeli invasion of Lebanon Sidon was occupied by the Israeli army for almost two and a half years.
On 18 August 1997, following a roadside bomb near Jezzine which killed two teenage members of a SLA leader's family, SLA artillery shelled Sidon killing seven civilians and wounding thirty-five. Hizbollah responded the following day by firing 60–80 rockets into the security zone and northern Israel. According to UNIFIL observers the missiles appeared to be targeted at uninhabited areas. The attack on Sidon is credited with leading to a truce between Hizbollah and Amal and increased cooperation between the two groups and the Lebanese Army. This was evident in the Ansariya ambush the following month.
On 8 June 1999 two gunmen entered the Palais de Justice, Sidon's main courthouse, and shot dead three magistrates and a chief prosecutor. The attackers escaped. No group claimed responsibility but suspicion focused on Osbat al-Ansar whose leader had been sentenced to death in absentia for the murder of the head of the Sufi Al-Ahbash movement and the attempted assassination of the mufti of Tripoli. He was believed to be in hiding in the Ain al-Hilwa refugee camp.
Studies in 2000 showed a population of 65,000 in the city, and around 200,000 in the metropolitan area. The little level land around the city is used for cultivation of wheat, vegetables, and fruits, especially citrus and bananas. The fishing in the city remains active with a newly opened fishery that sells fresh fish by bidding every morning. The ancient basin was transformed into a fishing port, while a small quay was constructed to receive small commercial vessels (see "Old City" and the "Architecture and landscape" sections below).
Panorama of Sidon as seen from the top of the Sea Castle, 2009Saida Municipal Stadium was inaugurated in 2000 for the Asian Football Confederation's Cup 2000.
Politics
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This sectarian and demographic division rose to the surface during the Lebanese Civil War, when armed clashes erupted between Sunni Muslims and Christians. The clashes ended with the surrender of the Christian front, and Christians were forced to move to east Beirut. After the war ended in 1990, some Christians gradually returned to their hometowns but in 2000 many fled to Israel. The local politics of Sidon in the 20th century was mainly dominated up till the 1980s by allegiances around two main families, the El-Bizri and Saad. The El-Bizri politicians were known for their business connections, close ties with eminent Lebanese and Levantine leaders, and their bent on serving the Lebanese state as government ministers, officials and mayors. The Saad politicians tended to be populist and became engaged in violent protests in the 1940s, 1950s and then during the Lebanese civil war as Nasserites (populist followers of Nasser in Lebanon).
The local political conflict between these two families was always resolved through amicable means and ties of kinship. Their hold over the political aspects of the city was similar to that of Mediterranean families in Sicily or to being also influenced by the ties of Arab families, clans, and tribes in traditionalist forms. The most notable figures of the El-Bizri family in the first half of the 20th century were: Ahmad El-Bizri (born 1899), Salah El-Bizri, Eizeddine El-Bizri (commonly known as Eizzo) and Anwar El-Bizri (born 1910). These four brothers were businessmen and politicians who dominated the political life of the city up till the late 1940s, using traditional inherited forms of governance since Ottoman times. With intelligence and strength they maintained their power for over 50 years. It is from their ranks that Maarouf Saad started his public life, and their close cousins, Nazih El-Bizri, Amin El-Bizri, and Fouad El-Bizri became the next generation of politicians and statesmen in Lebanon; holding positions as ministers and members of parliament.
The El-Bizri and the Saad political practices were bent on social justice and on local service in public affairs. The El-Bizri were since the Ottoman rule bent on serving the state, and this continued with their loyalty and support to the successive governments of Lebanon since the times of independence. They also helped eminent politicians and statesmen from Sidonian descent such as the Prime Ministers Riad Solh, Takieddine el-Solh and Rashid Solh, they also gave their support to former Prime Minister Saeb Salam, father of Tamam Salam, Prime Minister 2014–2016. The presence of the El-Bizris was at times intimidating on the local scene, but they were also known for their goodwill and dignified public service.
The Saad family developed their links with Nasserism in the 1950s and engaged in the uprising and armed protest of 1958 against the government of the Lebanese President Chamoun. They also became involved in the civil war as part of the left wing politics of the Lebanon (Al-Haraka al-Wataniyya) with PLO connections, and they actively contributed to resisting the Israeli occupation after 1982. The Saads remained populist in their politics and focused on the grassroots, while the El-Bizri were generally appealing to the middle and upper classes. In the middle 1980s, the Hariri family began to rise to prominence and became the most influential in Sidon in political and financial terms, even though the presence of the Saad and the El-Bizri in local politics remained significant at the level of visibility and activism. The Saad family developed its original politics from within the sphere of influence of the El-Bizri family and then became a power to reckon with on its own after 1948, and most powerfully in 1958, then in the civil war and until the present today.
Maarouf Saad, the leader of his family, and a local influential politician, was assassinated at the eve of the Lebanese civil war in 1975. The Saads retained their populism and grassroots appeal, and attracted a core of loyal adherents since the middle of the 20th century. While the El-Bizri were Levantine in their Arabism (namely focused mainly on Bilad al-Shaam in regional politics), and the Solh being also similar to them in this, the Saad were leaning more towards a broader pan-Arabism (Nasserite, Libyan, and then Syrian). The Hariri family started to rise to political and economic prominence in the 1980s and became perhaps the most influential family in Lebanon by the mid-1990s, following modern forms of political practice through a large party (Future Movement) that cuts across various economic classes.
Impact on Sidon of regional underdevelopment
According to a 2013 United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) report "data also point to an increase in urban poverty especially in Lebanon's largest cities suburbs such as Beirut, Tripoli and Saida, as illustrated by poverty-driven symptoms (child labour, over-crowding and deteriorated environment conditions)." In another UNDP report, the author discusses the development predominance of Beirut over the rest of the regions of Lebanon (North, South and Beqaa) is a well-known imbalance that can be dated to the early 19th century. With the expansion of Beirut in the 1870s, urban growth in the future capital outpaced Tripoli and Saida. Transportation routes, missionary schools, universities and hospitals as well as the Beirut port development and the commerce of silk participated to the fortification of Beirut as a major trade center for Mediterranean exchange (ARNAUD 1993; LABAKI 1999: 23). However, the establishment of Great Lebanon in 1920, under the French mandate, added the poorer areas of the North (Akkar), Beqaa (Baalbak-Hermel) and the South (Jabal Aamel) to the relatively affluent cities of Mount Lebanon. This addition made of Lebanon a country composed of unequally developed regions. This legacy remains a heavy load to bear socially, culturally, economically and politically. Even though the public policies elaborated by the young Lebanese State were attempting to have regional perspectives, the early urban planning schemes reveal a development approach exclusively axed on Beirut and its suburbs.
The post war development policy of the State, promoted by Hariri government (1992–1998), was centered around balanced development and is widely inspired by the 1943 Pact and the 1989 Taef agreement (LABAKI1993: 104). However the application of this policy aims mainly at the rehabilitation and construction of roads and infrastructures (electricity, telephone, sewage). Another of its components is the rehabilitation of government buildings (airport, port, schools, universities and hospitals). Transportation projects (mainly concentrated on the coastal line) constitute 25% of the budget of 10-year economic plan developed by the CDR (BAALBAKI 1994: 90). However, all these projects are predominantly concentrated around Beirut, ignoring the regions.
The former Makab (waste dump) and the treatment plant
Near the southern entrance to the city used to be a 'rubbish mountain' called at the time by the locals the Makab; namely, a 600,000 cubic metre heap that reached the height of a four-story building. It was originally created to dispose of the remains of buildings destroyed in Israeli air strikes during the 1982 invasion, but it then became the main dump for the city. Growing out of the sea, it became an environmental hazard, with medical waste and plastic bags polluting nearby fishing grounds.
Sidon politicians, including the Hariri family, failed for decades to resolve the Makab crisis—which has endangered residents' health (especially during episodic burning). In 2004, Engineer Hamzi Moghrabi, a Sidon native, conceived the idea to establish a treatment plant for the city's decades-old chronic waste problem. He established the privately funded IBC Enviro and the treatment plant became operational in 2013.
The Ministry of Environment came up with a $50,000+ plan to clean the whole area and transform the dump into a green space, along with other heaps in the country. Qamla beach in Sidon, a coast in close proximity to the Sea Castle, witnessed a large municipal cleanup in May 2011, as it was an easy target of rubbish being washed up by the Makab. These plans aim to revive the former glory of the city's coasts and attract tourists who avoided swimming in Sidon's sea before. The project of cleaning the region where the waste dump has already started, and currently a waves-barrier is being built, and the vast bulk of the waste dump being cleared.
Local government
The city of Sidon is administered by the Municipality of Sidon. The municipality is constituted of a council of 21 members including the City Mayor and his Deputy. It has administrative and financial independence but remains under the control and supervision of the central government, specifically the Ministry of Interior. The municipality's jurisdiction is limited to a region of 786 hectares in area and 5 meters in elevation, while each of the city's suburbs is administered by its own independent municipal council. Sidon is the center of the Governorate of South Lebanon, and hosts the seat of the Governor of Southern Lebanon. The city is also the center of the Sidon District and the Union of Sidon and Zahrani Municipalities (founded in 1978 and contains 15 municipalities). Sidon hosts the southern regional headquarters of a series of governmental facilities like the Central Bank of Lebanon, Électricité du Liban, Central Telecommunications Station and others. It is also the home of the Justice Palace of South Lebanon in its new headquarters on East Boulevard (the old headquarters were an old Ottoman Saray that is currently occupied by the LSF and is planned to be transformed into a cultural center by the municipality).
In the 2000 and 2005 parliamentary elections, the Sidon District along with the Tyre and Bint Jbeil districts formed the first electoral district of South Lebanon. However, in the 2009 elections – and due to the reactivation of the 1960 electoral law – the city of Sidon was separated from its district to form a separate electoral district.
Demographics
Religion in Sidon (2014) | ||||
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Religion | Percent | |||
Sunni Islam | 82.16% | |||
Shia Islam | 10.83% | |||
Christian | 6.49% | |||
Others | 0.52% |
In 2014 Muslims made up 92.99% and Christians made up 6.49% of registered voters in Sidon. 82.16% of the voters were Sunni Muslims and 10.83% were Shiite Muslims.
The overwhelming majority of Sidon's population belong to the Sunni sect of Islam, with a small number of Shiites and Christians. Sidon is the seat of the Greek Melkite Catholic Archbishop of Sidon and Deir el Qamar, and has housed a significant Catholic population throughout its history. Sidon also hosts the seat of the Shiite Ayatollah of South Lebanon.
In the 1930s, when Lebanon was still under the French mandate, Sidon had the largest Jewish population in Lebanon, estimated at 3,588, compared to 3,060 in Beirut, however by the end of 1990s most of the Jewish population had emigrated leaving their cemitery and other sites in a state of abandonment.
Main sights
- Sidon Sea Castle, a fortress built by the Crusaders in the early 13th century. It is located near the Port of Sidon.
- Sidon Soap Museum. It traces the history of the soap making in the region and its different manufacturing steps.
- Khan al-Franj ("Caravanserai of the French"), a complex built in the 16th century, though erroneously credited to Emir Fakhreddine II in the 17th century. It gained its name for accommodating French merchants and goods in order to develop trade with Europe. This is a typical khan with a large rectangular courtyard and a central fountain surrounded by covered galleries.
- Debbane Palace, a historical residence built in 1721, an example of Arab-Ottoman architecture. This villa was earlier occupied by the Hammoud family in the 18th century and also by members of the famous Ottoman aristocrats of the Abaza clan in the late 19th century and early 20th century. The vaults at the ground level being originally stables for the villa residents and then turned into shops as part of the old souks, and known until recent time by association to the Abazas.
- The Castle of St. Louis (Qalaat Al Muizz). It was built by the Crusaders in the 13th century on top of the remains of a fortress built by the Fatimid caliph Al Muizz. It is located to the south of the Old Souks near Murex Hill.
- Eshmun Temple, dedicated to the Phoenician god of healing. Built in the 7th century BC, it is located in the north of Sidon near the Awali River.
- The British War Cemetery in Sidon. Opened in 1943 by units of His Majesty's (King George VI) British Forces occupying the Lebanon after the 1941 campaign against the Vichy French troops. It was originally used for the burial of men who died while serving with the occupation force, but subsequently the graves of a number of the casualties of the 1941 campaign were moved into the cemetery from other burial grounds or from isolated positions in the vicinity. The cemetery now contains 176 Commonwealth burials of the Second World War and nine war graves of other nationalities. It was designed by G. Vey. It is perhaps the only garden in modern Sidon that is elegantly kept and cared for. It is not a public garden, but can be visited when the wardens have its gateways opened.
Education
Sidon is home to numerous educational facilities ranging from public elementary schools to private universities. According to a 2006 study, the city is home to 29 schools that serve a total of 18,731 students: 37% are in public schools, 63% are in private schools. Sidon also contains 10 universities, 5 of which are private universities.
University | Faculty | Type |
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Lebanese International University (LIU) | N/A | Private |
Lebanese University (LU) | Faculty of Law, Political Science and Public Administration | Public |
Saint Joseph University (USJ) | N/A | Private |
American University of Lebanon (AUL) | N/A | Private |
Al-Jinan University | N/A | Private |
Lebanese University (LU) | Faculty of Public Health | Public |
Lebanese University (LU) | Faculty of Literature and human Science | Public |
Lebanese University (LU) | Institute of Social Sciences | Public |
American University of Science and Technology | N/A | Private |
Lebanese American University | N/A | Private |
Lebanese University (LU) | Institute of Technology | Public |
Archaeology
The following archaeological sites in the area indicate settlements from the earliest prehistorical times.
Sidon I, II and III are prehistoric sites, while Sidon I is the tell of ancient Sidon starting from the Early Bronze Age.
Sidon I is an archaeological site located to the east of the city, south of the road to Jezzine. An assemblage of flint tools was found by P. E. Gigues suggested to date between 3800 and 3200 BC. The collection included narrow axes or chisels that were polished on one side and flaked on the other, similar to ones found at Ain Cheikh, Nahr Zahrani and Gelal en Namous. The collection appears to have gone missing from the Archaeological Museum of the American University of Beirut.
Sidon II is said to be "near the church" at approximately fifty meters above sea level. P. E. Gigues suggested that the industry found on the surface of this site dated to the Acheulean.
Sidon III was found by E. Passemard [fr] in the 1920s, who made a collection of material that is now in the National Museum of Beirut marked "Camp de l'Aviation". It includes large flint and chert bifacials that may be of Heavy Neolithic origin.
Sidon IV is the tell mound of ancient Sidon with Early Bronze Age (c. 3200 BC) deposits, now located underneath the ruined Saint Louis Castle and what are also thought to be the ruins of a Roman theater.
Bronze Age city and kingdom
City of Sidon (Sidon IV site)
In the area of this ruined Crusader castle, recent excavations uncovered a late Early Bronze Age I (EB I) settlement on bedrock. Here, an uninterrupted sequence from EB I to EB III was found. A modest third-millennium BC settlement consisting of domestic installations and tombs was also uncovered. Yet the following history of Sidon was not clarified. Very little has been known about the location, extent, and significance of Middle Bronze Age (MBA) Sidon until recently.
Tell el-Burak MBA settlement
Since the early 21st century, Tell el-Burak excavations have helped significantly in this area, because it was an active settlement during MBA, and quite well preserved. Tell el-Burak is located along the coast 9 km south from Sidon. Previously, there was a big gap in the history of this whole coastal area from the end of the Early Bronze Age until the middle of the 2nd millennium BC, when Sidon is first mentioned in the historical texts.
MBA kingdom of Sidon
Archaeologists determined that Sidon was clearly the big power centre during MBA, controlling significant territory. So there appears to have been the "Kingdom of Sidon" that controlled el-Burak, and many other surrounding areas.
Excavation history
The area around Sidon contains a number of important necropoli (below in order of age, and noting their principal excavators):
- Dakerman (Roger Saidah, 1968–1969)
- Tambourit (Saidah, 1977)
- Magharet Abloun (Aimé Péretié, 1855; Ernest Renan, 1864; Georges Contenau, 1920)
- Ayaa (William King Eddy, 1887; Osman Hamdi Bey, 1892; Contenau, 1920)
- Ain al-Hilweh (Charles Cutler Torrey, 1919–1920)
- El-Merah (Contenau, 1920)
- Qrayé (Contenau, 1920)
- Almoun, (Conenau, 1924)
- El-Harah (Theodore Makridi, 1904; Contenau, 1924)
- Magharet Abloun, Greco-Roman part (Renan, 1864; Contenau, 1914–1924)
- Helalié/Baramié/Mar Elias (William John Bankes, 1816; Renan 1864; Contenau, 1914; M. Meurdrac & L. Albanèse, 1938–1939)
In indication of the high-profile of the old city of Sidon in archaeological expeditions, and mainly in the 19th century, in October 1860 the famous French scholar Ernest Renan was entrusted with an archaeological mission to Lebanon, which included the search for the antique parts of Sidon. The Phoenician inscriptions that he discovered, and his field data, were eventually published in his notebook the: Mission de Phénicie (1864–1874; Phoenician Expedition).
The St. Louis castle grounds were excavated in 1914–1920 by a French team. Then eastwards a new site was also excavated by another generation of French expeditions in the 1960s. This same site received renewed attention in 1998 when the Directorate General of Antiquities in Lebanon authorized the British Museum to begin excavations on this area of land that was specifically demarcated for archaeological research. This has resulted in published papers, with a special focus on studying ceramics.
The archaeological fieldwork was not fully undertaken since the independence of the Lebanon. The main finds are displayed in the National Museum in Beirut. The fieldwork was also interrupted during the long civil war period, and it is now resumed but at a timid and slow scale, and not involving major international expeditions or expertise. Perhaps this is also indicative of the general lack in cultural interests among the authorities of this city, and almost of the non-existence of notable intellectual activities in its modern life. There are signs that the locals are beginning to recognize the value of the medieval quarters, but this remains linked to minor individual initiatives and not a coordinated collective effort to rehabilitate it like it has been the case with Byblos, even though the old district of Sidon contains a great wealth in old and ancient architecture.
During the 2024 Israeli invasion of Lebanon, UNESCO gave enhanced protection to 34 cultural sites in Lebanon including the archaeological sites at Sidon to safeguard them from damage.
In the Bible
Hebrew Bible/Old Testament
The Hebrew Bible describes Sidon (צִידוֹן) in several passages:
- It received its name from the "first-born" of Canaan, the grandson of Noah (Genesis 10:15, 19).
- The Tribe of Zebulun has a frontier on Sidon (Genesis 49:13)
- It was the first home of the Phoenicians on the coast of Canaan, and from its extensive commercial relations became a "great" city (Joshua 11:8, 19:28).
- It was the mother city of Tyre. It lay within the lot of the tribe of Asher, but was never subdued (Judges 1:31).
- The Sidonians long oppressed Israel (Judges 10:12).
- From the time of David its glory began to wane, and Tyre, its "virgin daughter" (Isaiah 23:12), rose to its place of pre-eminence.
- Solomon entered into a matrimonial alliance with the Sidonians, and thus their form of idolatrous worship found a place in the land of Israel (1 Kings 11:1, 33).
- Jezebel was the daughter of King Ithobaal I of Sidon (1 Kings 16:31).
- It was famous for its manufactures and arts, as well as for its commerce (1 Kings 5:6; 1 Chronicles 22:4; Ezekiel 27:8).
- It is frequently referred to by the prophets (Isaiah 23:2, 4, 12; Jeremiah 25:22, 27:3, 47:4; Ezekiel 27:8, 28:21, 22, 32:30; Joel 3:4).
- Elijah sojourned in Sidon, performing miracles (1 Kings 17:9–24; see also in the New Testament, Luke 4:26).
New Testament
- Jesus visited the region or "coasts" (King James Version) of Tyre and Sidon (Matthew 15:21; Mark 7:24) and from this region many came forth to hear him preaching (Mark 3:8; Luke 6:17), leading to the stark contrast in Matthew 11:21–23 to Korazin and Bethsaida. See the exorcism of the Syrophoenician woman's daughter, which takes place on the coast, in the region of Sidon and Tyre. Then he returned from the region of Tyre, and went by way of Sidon towards the Sea of Galilee, in the region of the Decapolis (Mark 7:31)
- From Sidon, at which his ship put in after leaving Caesarea, Paul finally sailed for Rome (Acts 27:3, 4).
In ancient mythology
- The account ascribed to the Phoenician historian Sanchuniathon makes Sidon a daughter of Pontus, son of Nereus. She is said there to have first invented musical song from the sweetness of her voice.
Gallery
- Port of Sidon, 19th century
- The castle and the harbour of Saida, the ancient Sidon
- Sidon Castle
- Sidon, Sarcophagus relief of a boat
- Sidon College site
- Sidon Stadium
- Sidon, Lebanon, Panorama
- Mosque, Sidon
- صيدا - صورة جوية قديمة
- Mosque
- Sidon, vue meridionale
- Sidon District Map
International relations
Twin towns and sister cities
Main article: List of twin towns and sister cities in Asia § LebanonNotable people
In antiquity and the pre-modern era
Chronological list.
- Eumaeus, character from Greek mythology. In Homer, Eumaeus tells of having been kidnapped as child from Sidon, where his father was the king.
- Antipater of Sidon (2nd century BC), poet
- Zeno of Sidon (c. 150 – c. 75 BC), Epicurean philosopher born in Sidon
- Dorotheus of Sidon (1st century BC) Greek astrologer associated with Sidon
- Boethus of Sidon (c. 75 – c. 10 BC), peripatetic philosopher
- Tiberius Julius Abdes Pantera, Roman soldier who, according to his grave found in Germany in the 19th century, was born in Sidon
- Zenobius and his sister Zenobia, early-Christian martyrs executed around AD 290 under Diocletian
- Euthymios Saifi (1643–1723), Melkite Catholic Bishop of Sidon and Tyre
- Yusuf al-Asir (born 1232 AH = 1817 AD; died 1307 AH = 1889 AD), faqih, Islamic scholar, writer, poet, linguist, and journalist
In the modern era
- Fayza Ahmed (Al-Rawwass), Arab singer formerly based in Egypt
- Afif al-Bizri, (Afif El-Bizri) former Chief of Staff of the Syrian armed forces with a high-standing military rank and political profile during the Syria-Egypt republican union of the Nasser era.
- Raymond Audi, international banker, and former Minister of Refugees in the government of Lebanon (Originally Palestinian)
- Mousbah Baalbaki, contemporary male belly dancer
- Nazih El Bizri, longstanding politician: mayor of Sidon from 1952 till 1959, Member of Lebanese Parliament from 1953 till 1958 and from 1972 till 1992. Lebanese Minister of Health, and Minister of Social Affairs from 1955 till 1956, then from 1972 till 1973, and from 1980 till 1982.
- Hisham El-Bizri, filmmaker, producer, professor
- Nader El-Bizri, philosopher, architect
- The Four Brothers - Riad El Bizri's Sons:
- Ahmad El-Bizri, Salah-Eddine El-Bizri (Mayor of Sidon from 1937 till 1951. Member of Parliament from 1951 till 1953), Ezzedine El-Bizri, Anwar El-Bizri.
- Bahia Hariri, former Minister of Education in the governments of Lebanon and philanthropist
- Rafic Hariri, former Prime Minister, billionaire and international businessman
- Bahaa Hariri, international businessman and billionaire, son of Rafic Hariri
- Saad Hariri, youngest former Prime Minister of Lebanon
- Ahmad Hijazi (born 1994), Lebanese footballer
- Adel Osseiran, co-founder of modern Lebanon, was a prominent Lebanese statesman, a former Speaker of the Lebanese Parliament, and one of the founding fathers of the Lebanese Republic.
- Sheikh Mohamad Osseiran, Jaafari Mufti of Sidon
- Ali Osseiran, Member of Parliament and Former Minister
- Maarouf Saad, former deputy representing Sidon in the national parliament and founder of the Popular Nasserite Party
- Fouad Siniora, former Prime Minister of Lebanon, minister of finance, and member of parliament
- Riad Solh, former Prime Minister of Lebanon
- Sami Solh, former Prime Minister of Lebanon
- Paul Watkins (born 1950), former Manson family member; lived in Sidon during his childhood (d. 1990)
- Hussein Zein (born 1995), Lebanese footballer
See also
- Abdalonymus – 4th-century BC King of Sidon
- Amarna letter EA 144
- King of Sidon – Ruler of Sidon
- Royal necropolis of Ayaa – Phoenician necropolis in Lebanon
- Sarcophagus of Eshmunazar II – 6th-century BC Phoenician royal coffin
- Sidon Eyalet – Administrative division of the Ottoman Empire from 1660 to 1864
- Sidon Mithraeum – Former mithraeum discovered in Sidon, kept in the Louvre
- Temple of Eshmun – Ancient temple to the Phoenician god of healing in Lebanon
Notes
- See lines 18–20 of the Eshmunazar II sarchophagus inscription.
- The territories of the Phoenician cities could be discontiguous: thus, the lands and the cities of Dor and Joppa belonging to the Sidonians were separated from Sidon by the city of Tyre.
References
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- ^ Schulze, Kirsten (October 2010). "Sidon". In Stillman, Norman A. (ed.). Encyclopedia of Jews in the Islamic World. Brill Reference Online.
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Sources
- This article incorporates text from a publication now in the public domain: Easton, Matthew George (1897). "Sidon". Easton's Bible Dictionary (New and revised ed.). T. Nelson and Sons.
- Additional notes taken from Collier's Encyclopedia (1967 edition)
- Briant, Pierre (2002). From Cyrus to Alexander: A history of the Persian Empire. Winona Lake, IN: Eisenbrauns. ISBN 9781575061207.
- Elayi, Josette (1997). "Pouvoirs locaux et organisation du territoire des cités phéniciennes sous l'Empire perse achéménide" [Local authorities and organization of the territory of the Phoenician cities under the Persian Achaemenid Empire]. Espacio, Tiempo y Forma. 2, Historia antigua (in French). 10. Editorial UNED: 63–77. OCLC 758903288. Archived from the original on 4 October 2023.
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Further reading
Library resources aboutSidon
- Aubet, Maria Eugenia (2001). The Phoenicians and the West: Politics, Colonies and Trade. 2nd ed. Translated by Mary Turton. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press.
- Markoe, Glenn (2000). "Phoenicians". Vol. 2: Peoples of the Past. Berkeley, Cal.: University of California Press.
- Moscati, Sabatino (1999). The World of the Phoenicians. London: Phoenix Giant.
External links
- Sidon On Google Maps Street View By Paul Saad
- Sidonianews (Sidon News Portal) (in Arabic)
- Lebanon, the Cedars' Land: Sidon
- Sidon excavations
- Ancient Phoenician Sidon (Saida) in Lebanon
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